Joshuaw3's 96 gt build

joshuaw3

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Hey all. Im back after a brief 3 year hiatus from the mustang game and im back with a 96 gt 4.6 5 speed that i got a good deal on. Previous owner replaced a decent amount of stuff and did a good job on some of it and a bad job on other parts.

The good: For the most part pretty dry 4.6. Replaced valve cover gaskets, radiator, and power steering rack. Already has a bbk cold air intake, svo headers, mac off road h pipe, flowmaster mufflers and 3 inch tips. Transmission has no leaks-looks like it may have been replaced at some point? The control arms were replaced along with ball joints. It has msd coil packs and wires. Has a short throw shifter. The interior is in immaculate shape. The car has a cobra front bumper and a cowl hood. There is pretty much no rust on the whole car which being an ohio car for 22 years is pretty amazing. Already lowered and has cobra wheels on it.

The bad: the ball joint in one of the control arms has a ripped boot, no cauter pin and no fitting.
The car was misfiring so i replaced the spark plugs and that didnt fix the issue and it turned out the wires were bad. The tps was throwing a code. The body is in rough shape. It had racing stripes but the previous owner decided he didnt like them and took them just leaving matte black spots where they were. He also removed the spoiler and just put plastic body clips in the holes. The car has eibach lowering springs in the front but just cut springs in the rear. There were other misc things like the odometer doesnt work, it was missing turn signal bulbs, the headlights dont sit right etc.

What ive done in the past 1.5 weeks so far.
Fixed the misfire by replacing the plugs and wires, sanding down the minimal rust there was and spraying underneath with underbody spray. Removed the ac and all the lines and installed a bypass pulley due the the ac compressor trying to catch on fire. replaced the turn signal bulbs, replaced the fuel pump with a walbro 255 that my buddy gave me. replaced the parking brake cables (but thats giving me issues now but ill figure it out) replaced the tps and other odds and ends here and there.

The plan:
Redo it all!!!!!!!!!
Built motor with forced induction
tubular k member kit
koni shocks and struts
new pads, rotors and calipers
new rear control arms
31 spline axles, new diff, 3.73 gears
new wheels + tires
minor body work and paint
basically replace everything old with new.

If you are still reading this then wow thanks but this will take me a while maybe a couple of years to get it where i want it but i bought it as a project to redo it from the ground up.
Pictures will be added later.
 

96blak54

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And thats the beauty of a build thread!

Build threads are the journal of progress. Build the car, build the thread. Its fun to look back at where you started.

Stick around this time, check back often. Shenanigans are rampent around here and make for fun conversations that keep us all intune to each other.
 
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joshuaw3

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240BD5D3-2D36-4ED3-9C08-CA0C2279F65A.jpeg 98D737F7-D429-45D9-B455-49FB44BB078D.jpeg 7B087E2C-5D91-4F9B-869A-A2752CE3CFFD.jpeg 7498E131-E223-4638-AB1D-F8A9748D63BC.jpeg ADE277E8-A9EA-4DB7-B74A-26772F661C0A.jpeg F9489DD9-7F14-4101-AD4C-EA66C0C40ED0.jpeg 845CEB0A-12C9-44EE-AC9D-B88246E87B57.jpeg
Hey all. Im back after a brief 3 year hiatus from the mustang game and im back with a 96 gt 4.6 5 speed that i got a good deal on. Previous owner replaced a decent amount of stuff and did a good job on some of it and a bad job on other parts.

The good: For the most part pretty dry 4.6. Replaced valve cover gaskets, radiator, and power steering rack. Already has a bbk cold air intake, svo headers, mac off road h pipe, flowmaster mufflers and 3 inch tips. Transmission has no leaks-looks like it may have been replaced at some point? The control arms were replaced along with ball joints. It has msd coil packs and wires. Has a short throw shifter. The interior is in immaculate shape. The car has a cobra front bumper and a cowl hood. There is pretty much no rust on the whole car which being an ohio car for 22 years is pretty amazing. Already lowered and has cobra wheels on it.

The bad: the ball joint in one of the control arms has a ripped boot, no cauter pin and no fitting.
The car was misfiring so i replaced the spark plugs and that didnt fix the issue and it turned out the wires were bad. The tps was throwing a code. The body is in rough shape. It had racing stripes but the previous owner decided he didnt like them and took them just leaving matte black spots where they were. He also removed the spoiler and just put plastic body clips in the holes. The car has eibach lowering springs in the front but just cut springs in the rear. There were other misc things like the odometer doesnt work, it was missing turn signal bulbs, the headlights dont sit right etc.

What ive done in the past 1.5 weeks so far.
Fixed the misfire by replacing the plugs and wires, sanding down the minimal rust there was and spraying underneath with underbody spray. Removed the ac and all the lines and installed a bypass pulley due the the ac compressor trying to catch on fire. replaced the turn signal bulbs, replaced the fuel pump with a walbro 255 that my buddy gave me. replaced the parking brake cables (but thats giving me issues now but ill figure it out) replaced the tps and other odds and ends here and there.

The plan:
Redo it all!!!!!!!!!
Built motor with forced induction
tubular k member kit
koni shocks and struts
new pads, rotors and calipers
new rear control arms
31 spline axles, new diff, 3.73 gears
new wheels + tires
minor body work and paint
basically replace everything old with new.

If you are still reading this then wow thanks but this will take me a while maybe a couple of years to get it where i want it but i bought it as a project to redo it from the ground up.
Pictures will be added later.
 
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Shaggy

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Hey all. Im back after a brief 3 year hiatus from the mustang game and im back with a 96 gt 4.6 5 speed that i got a good deal on. Previous owner replaced a decent amount of stuff and did a good job on some of it and a bad job on other parts.

The good: For the most part pretty dry 4.6. Replaced valve cover gaskets, radiator, and power steering rack. Already has a bbk cold air intake, svo headers, mac off road h pipe, flowmaster mufflers and 3 inch tips. Transmission has no leaks-looks like it may have been replaced at some point? The control arms were replaced along with ball joints. It has msd coil packs and wires. Has a short throw shifter. The interior is in immaculate shape. The car has a cobra front bumper and a cowl hood. There is pretty much no rust on the whole car which being an ohio car for 22 years is pretty amazing. Already lowered and has cobra wheels on it.

The bad: the ball joint in one of the control arms has a ripped boot, no cauter pin and no fitting.
The car was misfiring so i replaced the spark plugs and that didnt fix the issue and it turned out the wires were bad. The tps was throwing a code. The body is in rough shape. It had racing stripes but the previous owner decided he didnt like them and took them just leaving matte black spots where they were. He also removed the spoiler and just put plastic body clips in the holes. The car has eibach lowering springs in the front but just cut springs in the rear. There were other misc things like the odometer doesnt work, it was missing turn signal bulbs, the headlights dont sit right etc.

What ive done in the past 1.5 weeks so far.
Fixed the misfire by replacing the plugs and wires, sanding down the minimal rust there was and spraying underneath with underbody spray. Removed the ac and all the lines and installed a bypass pulley due the the ac compressor trying to catch on fire. replaced the turn signal bulbs, replaced the fuel pump with a walbro 255 that my buddy gave me. replaced the parking brake cables (but thats giving me issues now but ill figure it out) replaced the tps and other odds and ends here and there.

The plan:
Redo it all!!!!!!!!!
Built motor with forced induction
tubular k member kit
koni shocks and struts
new pads, rotors and calipers
new rear control arms
31 spline axles, new diff, 3.73 gears
new wheels + tires
minor body work and paint
basically replace everything old with new.

If you are still reading this then wow thanks but this will take me a while maybe a couple of years to get it where i want it but i bought it as a project to redo it from the ground up.
Pictures will be added later.

Welcome back. Look forward on watching your build thread.
 

07GtS197

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Is that a stock plastic crossover intake I see? Wow Im surprised its lasted this long lol. Cool car man I love sn95s.
 
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joshuaw3

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I’ve been busy doing a bunch of the little things on this thing while I save up for the more expensive stuff.
There’s a dent in the passenger door by the mirror in the pictures. Anybody have any ideas on how I can get that out?
 

96blak54

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Im not a body man and have no experience, but if it where me, id prep that spot for some spot filler. Maybe drop the door panel a use a hammer to pop some of the dent back out...idk really. The spot filler would be much easier. Someone of experience will chime in
 

evilcw311

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Looks a lil deep for just filler. Could you, yes. Should you, no. I’d have to look inside a door to remember if you can get to that spot. If you can you want to use a small dolly and a shrinking hammer. If you can’t get a dolly inside at that spot then you want to try and pull it out as much as possible before filler.

3 ways to try and pull it.

1: the magic way with dry ice. This involves putting a chunk of dry ice on it for a period of time then removing it and letting summer sun work it’s magic and pop it out. Works on hail dents. That’s a lil worse than a hail dent.

2: the way I don’t recommend. They make pullers that screw into the metal then keep sliding the hammer back till it pops it out. This involves making holes in the metal that you then need to weld back and smooth out.

3: best ideal way to do it. This involves a special gun that welds pulling tabs to the center of the dent. Then you use a pulling tool to yank the dent punt. Then use grinder to cut off tab and smooth out the area. You’ll still need filler but only a thin layer.


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ttocs

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where at on the door? Take the door panel off and tap back to shape from the back if you can get to it
 

evilcw311

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where at on the door? Take the door panel off and tap back to shape from the back if you can get to it

Do you have your panels apart right now?? If so look at the inside by the body line right under the mirror. See if it’s possible to get to that.

5ee87124f92cb8cbb419812e1bb3223c.jpg

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joshuaw3

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Yeah I can’t get to it without cutting into the door. Which might be a bad idea lol
 

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ttocs

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that will be a little tough. Between being on the most curved section of the door and the structure behind it I don't see that thing getting out with out some work. It would be no big deal for a body shop guy to use his dent puller to get most of it out, but then after that comes the rest of the fill/sand/prime/paint that gets expensive at a shop. You could just fill it all but that is not the best idea and still leaves the rest of the body shop dance to do afterwards.
 

evilcw311

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Yeah your not hitting that from the inside. Your gonna have to pull it out. If you don’t know anyone with dent pullers, check and see if any friends have one. I still advise against drilling and pulling.

Worst case scenario, pay a body shop a couple hundred bucks to pull it with the heat tack pullers and then you finish the work afterwards.

Body shop would probably be about $500 to do it all and have it prepped for paint. Find a reasonable shop and you might get that done with paint for $500.




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joshuaw3

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Update my coworker suggested I just drill a hole with a drill bit near the spot from the inside of the door and hit it out. It worked!!! I got it damn near flush. Now I just need a little spot filler, prime and paint it. I also smoothed down the driver fender where paint was cracking to do the same thing.
The nice thing is that where I drilled the hole the rubber door molding actually covers it up. Can’t even tell I did anything inside the car.
 

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damon81nola

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Good work. Still looks better than mine did when I got it an pretty close to looking better than it is at this very moment. Your interior is definitely better. Keep it up man


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evilcw311

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Not bad. Consider etch primer anytime you take it to bare metal. And if you haven’t used it before make sure to be very careful not to inhale the fumes. It has an acid base.


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joshuaw3

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Not bad. Consider etch primer anytime you take it to bare metal. And if you haven’t used it before make sure to be very careful not to inhale the fumes. It has an acid base.


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Just self etching primer or are you talking about something different?
 

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