Yes. Self etching primer. It should always be the first thing to touch bare metal. Just don’t use it on plastic or anything else.
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Joshuaw3's 96 gt build
- Thread starter joshuaw3
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Yes. Self etching primer. It should always be the first thing to touch bare metal. Just don’t use it on plastic or anything else.
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ttocs
Post Whore
1.) scrape away the paint in the area and an inch or two around it. Even if it looks good its been flexing for a while and will have a greater chance of flaking/chipping later.
2.) self etching primer
3.) bondo/filler/what ever
4.) sand down high spots
5.) high build primer - similar to regular primer but it is thicker and you can build it up in the low areas to get everything smooth. be sure to use a sanding block. It does not need to be a part from the parts store made for it. You can use a block of wood as long as its nice and flat. Once you think it looks flat use your hands/fingers to feel for dips as you run it across it. If you can feel it you will see it after its painted especially on a black car
2.) self etching primer
3.) bondo/filler/what ever
4.) sand down high spots
5.) high build primer - similar to regular primer but it is thicker and you can build it up in the low areas to get everything smooth. be sure to use a sanding block. It does not need to be a part from the parts store made for it. You can use a block of wood as long as its nice and flat. Once you think it looks flat use your hands/fingers to feel for dips as you run it across it. If you can feel it you will see it after its painted especially on a black car
Do you guys know how I should paint the hood and bumper? They appear to be the kind you get that come unprimed. So just clean them up and prime them? Then shoot some paint on them? What kind of primer would I use? The hood seems to be fiberglass, the bumper I think is plastic.
ttocs
Post Whore
hood and bumper are not metal. If the paint has not actually chipped off you can just scuff it and spray over it. If there are areas that are chipped they would need attention prior to paint.
Are they factory or aftermarket?? Makes a huge difference.
Factory if not peeling or flaking you can scuff, primer, paint. There’s a few other steps but that’s the gist of it.
If they’re aftermarket then you need to make sure there is no release agent left on the surface or paint will fisheye and not adhere.
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Factory if not peeling or flaking you can scuff, primer, paint. There’s a few other steps but that’s the gist of it.
If they’re aftermarket then you need to make sure there is no release agent left on the surface or paint will fisheye and not adhere.
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They are aftermarket. The hood is fiberglass and the bumper appears to be plastic.
That’s what they were from the factory!!! Lol
How long have they been on the car? How much exposure to sun and weather??
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It was kept outside before I bought it. If I had to guess it’s been at least a year being exposed to weather and sun.
Most of the release agent on the surface should be gone. Be careful how much you scuff. Go to deep and you’ll expose more of it. I’d say light scuffing and you should be ready to spray.
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I’ve been busy this week. A lot of body work being done currently. Going to finish sanding and hopefully have it primed by Monday.
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Lookin good! I hope you had power tools to help cause if not ...your arms are done! Body work truly is work on the body.
ttocs
Post Whore
get a paint prep wipe/spray to go over everything just before you paint them to get all the wax/oils/crap off of them. Takes a few mins and costs a few bucks but will save a lot of trouble if there is a spot that is bad.
Haha yeah I did the trunk by hand and was like screw this so I got a little 5 inch electric sander from Lowe’s for like 30 bucks and it made it go a lot faster. Still a lot of work tho
Silver95bird
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If you're priming all of that, it should be done in 320 grit. Rougher and the scratches will reappear later on down the road. Lighter and you may get sketchy adhesion. Sand the primer around 500-600 grit, for the same reasons. I hesitate to get too picky with my advice since I see you're not doing full removals of everything.
Before you spray, I'd recommend a thorough cleaning with naphtha on a clean rag. I've had good luck with summit racing primer, the good 2k stuff you have to mix together. High build and it sands well. I hope you have a good set of dura-blocks, they're invaluable.
Before you spray, I'd recommend a thorough cleaning with naphtha on a clean rag. I've had good luck with summit racing primer, the good 2k stuff you have to mix together. High build and it sands well. I hope you have a good set of dura-blocks, they're invaluable.
Started spraying before I saw the above comment. I had some success with the duplicolor primer I used but needed more and got some rustoloeum primer from autozone and it was shit. It just started cracking. So I’m going to resand everything with 320 grit and get some primer maybe the summit stuff the above guy mentioned. Then respray it
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ttocs
Post Whore
the only time i have used rustoleum was on old crappy metal that I just didn't want to get rusty. I have never had good luck with them.
Heck it doesnt really matter....its how we all learn. With all the time and effort i applied to my cars paint job, one would think it to be an amazing job, but once you see it.....thats not the case.
I believe itll all turn out great. I believe any driving car just needs a decent paint job and nothing over the top. Keep the "over the top" paint job for the trailer queen or weekend driver.
I believe itll all turn out great. I believe any driving car just needs a decent paint job and nothing over the top. Keep the "over the top" paint job for the trailer queen or weekend driver.
