Joshuaw3's 96 gt build

98snakehorse

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I have the cure for that. Install a AFR gauge....

Lol let me rephrase that.... AFR and Oil pressure gauges... you will be glued to both from now on if you go that route.

In all honesty. You will really want an AFR gauge with the turbo kit anyway. Its a little spendy but I would strongly recommend the Innovate SCG electronic boost controller. It is a WB AFR gauge and also a boost gauge/controller. Has built in fail safes that cut boost under overboost conditions and lean conditions. Saves me some headache under WOT pulls.
 

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There really isn't much to wire in other then switched power and ground and then running wires for senders if you go that way.
 
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joshuaw3

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There really isn't much to wire in other then switched power and ground and then running wires for senders if you go that way.

Yeah it was more of like what wires should I wire into and where. I’m going to have a innovate wideband which has wires for the box and for the gauge. And an oil pressure gauge. Those will be on the pillar
 
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joshuaw3

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There really isn't much to wire in other then switched power and ground and then running wires for senders if you go that way.
Wondering how people hide them and where they splice into
 

98snakehorse

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The WB gauge will require a switched ign 12v source with an inliine fuse. Ground it wherever you see fit. Get a multi meter which will help find wire sources.
 

ttocs

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The will not pull much current so you can tap power from probably almost any power source from the fuse box the gauge/radio power.
 
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joshuaw3

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The will not pull much current so you can tap power from probably almost any power source from the fuse box the gauge/radio power.

So my latest issue is the power door lock buttons stopped working. I can hear the box in the trunk clicking when you press the lock unlock button but nothing is happening with the doors. A mechanic at my job had moved that box around to try to figure out my no start issue but other than that idk what would have caused the issue. Neither passenger or driver side works
 
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joshuaw3

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The door locks do not go through the trunk keyless. They should work with out it.

Hmm weird why would it be clicking when I press the buttons tho? Any other ideas? They worked fine until I noticed today that they weren’t working at all.
 
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joshuaw3

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E69CAF97-B6F7-4AA5-B786-91648A54F6F9.jpeg
The WB gauge will require a switched ign 12v source with an inliine fuse. Ground it wherever you see fit. Get a multi meter which will help find wire sources.

Does anyone have any experience with the mmr oil filter relocation? I have an fittings and braided lines that came with the kit. I fixed one oil leak to trade for another. One of the fittings is leaking and if I tighten it the braided line hits the power steering pulley. Anybody have any tricks for getting this tight and keeping the line out of the way?
 

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Where is it leaking from? I ask because if you look at the right side where the line goes into the 90 fitting it looks like its being pulled away/out from the top?

I can't figure out where its hitting the pulley in the pic. Would it help if instead of a 90 degree fitting it was a 75 degree or so? I know you hope the kit has everything included and taken into account but its just not uncommon that a slight change to something on your previous mods is in the way now and you need to make an adjustment.
 
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joshuaw3

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Where is it leaking from? I ask because if you look at the right side where the line goes into the 90 fitting it looks like its being pulled away/out from the top?

I can't figure out where its hitting the pulley in the pic. Would it help if instead of a 90 degree fitting it was a 75 degree or so? I know you hope the kit has everything included and taken into account but its just not uncommon that a slight change to something on your previous mods is in the way now and you need to make an adjustment.

Last time I checked it was leaking from the red circle in the pic. The hose being pulled away is definitely something I need to look at. I didn’t get a pic of the pulley but the line that looks like it’s getting pulled out is the line that was hitting the pulley. I had some leaks at the oil filter fittings and I just had to tighten those up. So I’m thinking this one just needs tightened too but every time I tighten it the 90 pulls the line up to the pulley. So I’m wondering if I can loosen it and hold the 90 in place while I tighten the fitting back down if that makes sense.
 

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I would not try to force it into place. They are designed to fall into place and if they are off slightly under pressure it can make a huge leak. Last year I redid my fuel lines with an lines and to keep them short they were nearly straight lines from my fender to the rail which seemed like the right thing to do. I turned the key on to pressurize it all and there were no leaks. Shortly after starting the car as I was walking around the front I saw a fuel start to spray from the back of the rails onto the firewall so I jumped through the window to shut it down. I was not sure what happened as there were no leaks when I would pressurize the system with the engine off and after removing/inspecting and then putting them back on it did nearly the same thing. After some thought I realized that the straight lines didn't allow for any give when the motor was running/vibrating and it only took the right vibration to knock it out of alignment and not seal. I fixed it by making new lines that were only 4" longer, but make a bend that would make the vibrations not be transferred straight into that 90 degree fitting. It was just a case of too much cool shtuff getting in the way of each other. If the 90 degree fitting isn't fitting see what fitting will fit and get it. This is one of the JOYS of AN fittings is that if you do NOT get one fitting that is off by a few degrees and will not fit your f'n lucky.... I have more then a few extras as does almost anyone that decides they like AN fittings let us know what you need and we might have one to help.
 
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joshuaw3

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I would not try to force it into place. They are designed to fall into place and if they are off slightly under pressure it can make a huge leak. Last year I redid my fuel lines with an lines and to keep them short they were nearly straight lines from my fender to the rail which seemed like the right thing to do. I turned the key on to pressurize it all and there were no leaks. Shortly after starting the car as I was walking around the front I saw a fuel start to spray from the back of the rails onto the firewall so I jumped through the window to shut it down. I was not sure what happened as there were no leaks when I would pressurize the system with the engine off and after removing/inspecting and then putting them back on it did nearly the same thing. After some thought I realized that the straight lines didn't allow for any give when the motor was running/vibrating and it only took the right vibration to knock it out of alignment and not seal. I fixed it by making new lines that were only 4" longer, but make a bend that would make the vibrations not be transferred straight into that 90 degree fitting. It was just a case of too much cool shtuff getting in the way of each other. If the 90 degree fitting isn't fitting see what fitting will fit and get it. This is one of the JOYS of AN fittings is that if you do NOT get one fitting that is off by a few degrees and will not fit your f'n lucky.... I have more then a few extras as does almost anyone that decides they like AN fittings let us know what you need and we might have one to help.

So upon further inspection I’m going to relocate where my oil filter is to a different spot to put less stress on those lines. I took one of the lines off tonight to inspect it and see if there was anything out of the ordinary. I didn’t notice anything but one of the mechanics at my job said he thought an fittings don’t have o rings but my lines do in fact have o rings?
 
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joshuaw3

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I would not try to force it into place. They are designed to fall into place and if they are off slightly under pressure it can make a huge leak. Last year I redid my fuel lines with an lines and to keep them short they were nearly straight lines from my fender to the rail which seemed like the right thing to do. I turned the key on to pressurize it all and there were no leaks. Shortly after starting the car as I was walking around the front I saw a fuel start to spray from the back of the rails onto the firewall so I jumped through the window to shut it down. I was not sure what happened as there were no leaks when I would pressurize the system with the engine off and after removing/inspecting and then putting them back on it did nearly the same thing. After some thought I realized that the straight lines didn't allow for any give when the motor was running/vibrating and it only took the right vibration to knock it out of alignment and not seal. I fixed it by making new lines that were only 4" longer, but make a bend that would make the vibrations not be transferred straight into that 90 degree fitting. It was just a case of too much cool shtuff getting in the way of each other. If the 90 degree fitting isn't fitting see what fitting will fit and get it. This is one of the JOYS of AN fittings is that if you do NOT get one fitting that is off by a few degrees and will not fit your f'n lucky.... I have more then a few extras as does almost anyone that decides they like AN fittings let us know what you need and we might have one to help.


Ok ignore that last question. A quick google search answered that. Does anyone know if I can swap over a v6 brake booster instead of the hydroboost setup if I go manual steering?
 

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