Joshuaw3's 96 gt build
- Thread starter joshuaw3
- Start date
ttocs
Post Whore
theres your problem........ IT broke.
Yep but why is still the question.
Damn son!!!!!!! I give you an a- for effort. [emoji1787]
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Engine is in. Started it up for the first time tonight and everything is good. Checked for leaks and I have a pretty severe power steering leak from where the fitting goes into the rack. I’m thinking my friend overtightened it or something. So I’m trying a jb weld patch before I shell out for a new rack. But otherwise everything seems to be good. Just need to bleed the brakes, add more coolant, test drive and we are good to go. My oil pressure is reading correctly now as well
Good job! You know you can get rid of that a/c delete pulley if you put a ribbed idler in place of the smooth one you have, and get a shorter belt.
DKblue98GT
Well-Known Member
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- Dec 19, 2009
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Did you use a new teflon washer when you hooked up the power steering pump? Might be an easy fix...
theres a pretty serious crack on the rack housing
Would it go over the idler and still wrap around the tensioner like it does?
ttocs
Post Whore
jb weld it is then!
98snakehorse
Well-Known Member
From the looks of it, it will get rid of both your upper idler and ac delete pulley.
so just change out the tensioner pulley to a ribbed and it will get rid of the ac and idler pulley?
That’s a 3 bolt tensioner, so I would keep the tensioner how it is, change the upper idler to a grooved pulley. It’ll wrap around that upper and it’ll hit the tensioner kind of just like it is. It won’t wrap completely around the tensioner but it hits the side of it.
98snakehorse
Well-Known Member
My bad im used to the single bolt tensioner stuff. Yes As lwarrior1016 said replace the smooth idler with ribbed and that will eliminate the need for the ac delete pulley. You will obvi need a new shorter belt though.
I’ve done both, disconnected power assisted stuff and gone manual. Driving with power rack and power brakes but not having a power steering pump hooked up is a lot harder to drive with than a manual swap setup is. A manual swap will obviously cost more money than bypassing the power stuff though.
Well I think I’ll just replace the power steering rack for now until I save up for manual stuff
Good idea! Good job getting it running though. Minimal down time is always a plus. Hopefully this one will last you a good long time
Yeah hopefully a couple years at least. Enjoy it, learn how to drive something with over 400hp since that’s by far the fastest car I’ve owned, continue to build the rest of the car and save up to build a motor to turn the boost way up.
