K-member thread. MM, PA, AJE

[B.mad]

Ok I tried and look to see if i can find what i was looking for online, but i couldnt. or i didnt look good enough. Well here it is.

Which K-member do you use and what do you use your car for? What k-member is best for what? I think this thread will help others who have k-member questions.


Ok I am using my car for HDPE events, canyon carving, strip, and as my DD.

I was looking into the MM k-member, PA, AJE. I DO NOT WANT TO CONVERT TO COILOVER'S.

Reason why i was looking to PA or AJE is because they are the only ones that have A-Arms with spring perchs. But the reviews are iffy. Hit and Miss. And MM for the obvious reason, but i cant use their a-arms because they want me to convert to a freaken Coilover system!


This is from MM rep

"The MM 1979-2004 Mustang K-members are compatible with the length and spacing of the bushing assembly in the matching stock FCAs.
Stock FCAs will not fit in the MM k-members due to the diameter of the stock bushings. They will interfere with the leg on the
k-member that the FCA mounting tabs are welded to."

AJE and PA both are replacement A-arms for the stock k-member. But that also means that the diameter of the bushings will be a problem. Am i right or wrong? is there a way i can get different bushings to make it compatiable with the MM? Or should i just get the PA or AJE K-member?
I havent looked into UPR or QA1 because the bad reviews outweighed the good reviews, and those pieces are more aimed towards drag racing, well my build is going to be more aimed towards corners.


Chromemoly A-arms with spring perches $390 http://www.paracing.com/racingstore/product_info.php?cPath=30_48&products_id=81

chromemoly k-member with road race option and spring perches $690 http://www.paracing.com/racingstore/product_info.php?cPath=30_56&products_id=144

MM K-member http://www.maximummotorsports.com/MM-K-member-for-Mustang-1979-95-P206.aspx

AJE A-arms with spring perches $399
aje k-member with road race brace and spring perch :$423 http://www.ajeracing.com/mustang.php

 

[rz5.0]

There was a k member that allowed for the use of stock a arms. Don't remember the brand tho

 

[95opal]

I have a team z auto-x setup with coilovers but if im not mistaken you can use stock a-arms with it. Just check there site and it should say

 

[g36 monkey]

I do believe team z allows for that. However, why evade coil overs?

 

[OnyxCobra]

I have an MM K member because I wanted their quality and customer service. +1 on why no coilovers?

 

[B.mad]

idk, i wanted coilovers, but i found that the only difference is the weight savings. with a good set of struts, you can still have good ride quality, the only thing difference is the adjustable ride height, but im not gonna spend hundreds of dollars more for a good set of CO just to have adjustable ride height.

 

[B.mad]

I have a team z auto-x setup with coilovers but if im not mistaken you can use stock a-arms with it. Just check there site and it should say

http://www.teamzmotorsports.net/product_p/tzm-ac-kmember.htm

unfortunately it doesn't say, ill have to give them a call. but how do you like the k-member? have you autocrossed it? hows the quality? do you DD it?

 

[rz5.0]

It was D and D that use to do it.. I think pa did too. .

 

[mcglsr2]

idk, i wanted coilovers, but i found that the only difference is the weight savings. with a good set of struts, you can still have good ride quality, the only thing difference is the adjustable ride height, but im not gonna spend hundreds of dollars more for a good set of CO just to have adjustable ride height.

Coil-overs isn't just about adjustment - they are more about wheel rates. The stock suspension setup with the struts and inboard springs is a terrible design. It's makes it very difficult to get high performing springs that also provide great wheel rates and a good ride. Look at just about every car made now - all with McPherson struts (which is essentially a non-adjustable coil-over). No cars now are set up like the SN95. Get a good set of coil-overs, with a decent spring rate, and you'll actually get a better ride than your current set up. A lot of people that want to lower their cars get coil-overs because they adjust, not for the performance, which is maybe why you are kind of "meh" about it. But they are worth the performance. Think of the adjustability as a bonus.

 

[OnyxCobra]

exactly right, it's not really about weight savings at all.

a few benefits outlined by MM:

-Ability to choose from a wide range of spring rates; from very soft to very stiff.
-Improves handling (reduces body roll and quickens steering response) without degrading ride quality because the coil-over spring location improves the motion ratio, allowing a much higher wheel rate than is possible with a stock-location spring.
-Improves ride quality by eliminating the largest source of friction in the front suspension, allowing easier suspension movement for reduced harshness.
-Provides easy ride height adjustment.
-Reduces unsprung weight, which improves handling and ride quality.
-Allows easy spring swapping.
-Ride height may be retained after swapping to springs with a different rate.

 

[g36 monkey]

Bingo. Onyx said it all, which really means MM said it all lol

 

[rz5.0]

Forgot about a steeda you can use stock a arms or tubular with their k member for sure. .

 

[B.mad]

exactly right, it's not really about weight savings at all.

a few benefits outlined by MM:

-Ability to choose from a wide range of spring rates; from very soft to very stiff.
-Improves handling (reduces body roll and quickens steering response) without degrading ride quality because the coil-over spring location improves the motion ratio, allowing a much higher wheel rate than is possible with a stock-location spring.
-Improves ride quality by eliminating the largest source of friction in the front suspension, allowing easier suspension movement for reduced harshness.
-Provides easy ride height adjustment.
-Reduces unsprung weight, which improves handling and ride quality.
-Allows easy spring swapping.
-Ride height may be retained after swapping to springs with a different rate.

As of now, Coilovers are just not in the budget. Maybe in the future ill go Coilover's. But for now it is cheaper for me to go with the conventional type springs. If i wanted to go Coilover, which kit is the best? bilstein or koni? and whos kit? MM? Griggs? Granatelli?..ha...ha...ha.....

 

[B.mad]

Coil-overs isn't just about adjustment - they are more about wheel rates. The stock suspension setup with the struts and inboard springs is a terrible design. It's makes it very difficult to get high performing springs that also provide great wheel rates and a good ride. Look at just about every car made now - all with McPherson struts (which is essentially a non-adjustable coil-over). No cars now are set up like the SN95. Get a good set of coil-overs, with a decent spring rate, and you'll actually get a better ride than your current set up. A lot of people that want to lower their cars get coil-overs because they adjust, not for the performance, which is maybe why you are kind of "meh" about it. But they are worth the performance. Think of the adjustability as a bonus.

i dont care to much about adjustability, as long as i have the ride height i want. i want it to handle. thats my main concern. I know coilovers are better design etc etc, but it doesnt interest me as of now, especially because i dont have 1-2k for that set up. I rather spent that money on other stuff first, then get it later. My cars suspension is super stock right now, so im just building my tech sheet.

 

[B.mad]

And i think i am going with the Team Z Autocross K-member, I called and they said they are compatible with stock A-Arms. So Team Z K-Member and PA A-arms with spring perches for now. Then later i can get the Team Z autocross A-Arms or MM A-Arms, and do my Coilover set up if and when i decide to do it.

 

[OnyxCobra]

As of now, Coilovers are just not in the budget. Maybe in the future ill go Coilover's. But for now it is cheaper for me to go with the conventional type springs. If i wanted to go Coilover, which kit is the best? bilstein or koni? and whos kit? MM? Griggs? Granatelli?..ha...ha...ha.....

I run all MM stuff because the quality is outstanding. I have the MM coilover kit on Tokico struts.

Also it's nowhere near 1-2 grand, all you need is the coilover kit with springs which MM sells for $375. couple small mods to your struts and they slide right on.

 

[nitroram33]

I was able to make the stock arms work with the UPR K-member, just took a little "massaging".

 

[B.mad]

I run all MM stuff because the quality is outstanding. I have the MM coilover kit on Tokico struts.

Also it's nowhere near 1-2 grand, all you need is the coilover kit with springs which MM sells for $375. couple small mods to your struts and they slide right on.

Right now i have koni orange struts and shocks. I would need to buy bilstein or koni yellows for the conversion, because i prefer those brands over Tokico . Thats why I estimated at 1-2k. because shocks are about 700, then the front kit is about 375 like you said, the rear about the same. so already up about 1450. I would love to go Coilover, but right now H&R SS springs are cheaper, i hate the 4x4 look.

and what do you mean by a few small mods? meaning i can use the kit with which ever struts/shocks i want? or have?

because if i can have them fit to my koni orange i might as well get that now, and save up for the FCA/K-member, and get the road racing RLCA. Also how is the ride height adjustability? I want to lower it about 2-2.25 inches all around, can the MM kits do that?

 

[B.mad]

original plan:
H&R SS
Bilstein HD
XD MM RLCA
PA Racing FCA
Eibach sway bar kit
Steeda UCA
MM CC Plates
Poly isos
Diff brace
MM BSK
MM solid steering shaft


Adding everything up:

Going with my original plan: $3681.01
Going with original plan plus eibach FSB and MM adjustable RSB: $3817.98
Going with coilovers on all 4's with eibach FSB and MM adjustable RSB: $3914.26

so it isnt much difference, might as well save up and do the conversion at once, assuming i can get the ride height i want. just gonna take longer than i anticipated.

so now questions:
1.) if i get the MM FCA with a forward Offset, will i have rubbing issues or turning issues? i plan on running a 275/40/17 up front.
2.) will i be better off going with MM k-member or Team Z? what about the FCA?

Obviously MM is good quality, but if Team Z is as good as MM i rather get that and save a couple hundred $$$$

 

[B.mad]

I was able to make the stock arms work with the UPR K-member, just took a little "massaging".

lol. sometimes thats all it takes to convince