So new problem with the slowbra, i cant turn my key over now.. like as if im using the wrong key to try to turn on the ignition... how hard is it to replace that?? BTW i can still unlock my doors and trunk with the key just fine.
key igniton
- Thread starter Slowbro96
- Start date
Do you have another key by any chance??? Could be the key is worn out or the lock in buggered up. Also be sure to jiggle the wheel when trying to turn the ignition. If you need a new lock and barrel, I would go the route of getting one that you key using the springs and drawings instead of having 2 keys. If it is the key that is excessively worn, a locksmith can make a new one for you. Last time i had that done, it was 40 bucks and i had to show him i actually owned the car which was reassuring. Sorry for not answering your original question of how hard it is, but ive never done it on a mustang, but the 3 vehicles i have done it on, it was relatively easy, besides having to be a contortionist.
SVTstang96
Well-Known Member
Ok so try these 2 things first before seeing what a new lock and key cost. The keys are programmed to the car so that can become expensive.
1- is the wheel locked? this will cause the ignition to bind/lock until you move the wheel. Try turning the wheel left and right while turning the key. This will unlock the ignition and allow you to turn the key
2- try your other key. If your other key does not work this will tell you its the lock itself. Remove the lock and soak it in wd-40 for a little while. Wipe the excess off and use a air chuck to blow the excess on the inside out. This may clear up any loose debris inside the lock and allow you to use it once again.
3- if 1 and 2 don't work call your local lock smith and see what he says. He might be able to to take it apart and fix it, or cut you a new one altogether. The very last thing you want to do is have them cut new keys for the car. This will cost roughly $100 per key once its purchased/cut/programmed and who knows how much they will charge to re-key the locks.
1- is the wheel locked? this will cause the ignition to bind/lock until you move the wheel. Try turning the wheel left and right while turning the key. This will unlock the ignition and allow you to turn the key
2- try your other key. If your other key does not work this will tell you its the lock itself. Remove the lock and soak it in wd-40 for a little while. Wipe the excess off and use a air chuck to blow the excess on the inside out. This may clear up any loose debris inside the lock and allow you to use it once again.
3- if 1 and 2 don't work call your local lock smith and see what he says. He might be able to to take it apart and fix it, or cut you a new one altogether. The very last thing you want to do is have them cut new keys for the car. This will cost roughly $100 per key once its purchased/cut/programmed and who knows how much they will charge to re-key the locks.
Completely forgot about programmed keys. By any chance do you know what year that started that on mustangs???
SVTstang96
Well-Known Member
1996 I believe. PATS (Passive Anti Theft System) is the name for it, although it should have been called PITA (Pain in the A$$).
Well, see heres my problem lol. i dont have a spare.... never had a second one when i got the car. and i just went outside to try and shake steering wheel no luck. i put DW 40 in it well see. I thought only if they had the little chip in the key like my camaro dose that it means its programed to the car. Its really pissing me off. i drove it fine the other day no problem. washed her and everything... well see what happens with the WD 40 in about 30 mins
SVTstang96
Well-Known Member
Ok let us know how that works. The chip is a bit different then your 'maro. You can kind of see where the chip is placed if you look at the top of the key. Its complicated how the system works but heres a simple way to explain it.
There is a RFID chip in your key. Your doors/ignition all have RFID readers. When you put your key in the door or ignition lock the RFID reader reads the chip in your key and verifies it with the computer. If it doesn't match then it warns the computer. If it fails when attempting to open a door then the alarm sounds and kills all ignition power. If the ignition notices the wrong chip then it will kill the fuel pump and ignition so you can't drive it. There's a lot more that goes into it but it gives you an idea of how complicated it is.
My 2000 Focus uses a similar setup and when I lost my only key to it I had 2 options. Tow it to FORD and have it reprogrammed and keyed for $760 (1 key) or take it to the local locksmith and have them cut new keys and program them for $220 (2 keys)
well the DW 40 didnt work.... ima try dis connection the battery tomarrow and just try abunch of different things i can think of before i do anything else... -.- There is a ford dealer in town... ill ask them see what they think or could help. Just FML had nothing butt bad luck with this car so far =[
CC'S95GT
Post Whore
How hard did you pull the wheel to unlock it? It might really be in a bind. Just a little wiggle probably won't work.
And you need to be turning the key at the same time to unlock it.
And you need to be turning the key at the same time to unlock it.
PonyGlued
New Member
just out of curiosity what is the name stamped on your key?...mine is Axxcess+ 24, and I'll be dammed to see the imbedded chip, anyone know the actual chip location in these type keys?
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...Word=ignition+lock+cylinder&fromString=search
to me AutoZone has both types available with/without chip and will work OK, because mine seems to already not have a chip, and was changed out sometime in the past by somebody. If you can hopefully turn her to run at some point, then maybe you should pull out the lock cylinder at that time using a 1/8 pin or drill bit, and replace it. You don't want to be stuck again in the future. I'm kind of surprised that replacing with the non chip type can even work considering the computer's interaction here?...that's good I guess because it is much cheaper to repair
ttocs
Post Whore
as they said try to turn the key while really leaning on the wheel in either direction and sometimes it really binds up hard.
Otherwise with out a key you will either have to drill or else punch out the ignition cylinder to replace it unless you can have the dealer make one, and it was just the key that went bad. Do you have a slide hammer?
Otherwise with out a key you will either have to drill or else punch out the ignition cylinder to replace it unless you can have the dealer make one, and it was just the key that went bad. Do you have a slide hammer?
ttocs
Post Whore
The easiest way to tell if its a pats key is just how it looks. The transponder is mounted in the plastic portion you hold so it is thicker then the older keys use to be and if you look on the back of the plastic part(the part you would see if it were in the ignition facing out) there will be a small panel/door that you can see.
Musturd
Post Whore
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It's easy to get around this . 
ttocs
Post Whore
I don't think its pats that is locking up his wheel the debate is just on which key he would need to get
It's easy to get around this .
FML lol
I can tell you its no the original key. the thing is my wheel wasnt locked up before. like when this started it was free. and i keept wiggiling it around with moving the key and now its locked. Woudnt this just fix my problem? http://www.americanmuscle.com/black-ignition-lock-9699.html
ttocs
Post Whore
that is the part you need to fix it since it appears the cylinder has gone bad, but the problem is that to take out the bad one you need the key to turn. You insert the key, turn it to the run position, and then stick a small pick/screwdriver into a whole in the bottom of the colum and then just pull the key/ignition out. Takes 3 secs if you know how and can turn the key but for you, that is why I asked if you had a slide hammer. You might have to use one to punch it out or drill it out....
PonyGlued
New Member
Mine acts up now and then, me going to accessory position first, seems to help for some reason
