Lari's 95 build

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Got the car, 1995 GT 5.0 with the 5 speed manual, with a cracked fiberglass hood, a blown rear end, and an exhaust leak. On the more positive side, it had a B303 camshaft, some kind of underdrive pulleys, a short-throw shifter, and an upgraded clutch. I haven't verified what brand the clutch is because the transmission has been giving me a hard time, so I figured I'd replace both at the same time.

Luckily, the person who sold me the car had given me a new hood that just needed to be painted, along with another rear end. He claimed it had 3.73 gears, but I haven't double-checked that yet.

The first order of business was taking care of those two leftover projects from the previous owner. I don't have any pictures of the rear-end job. It ended up taking around 10 hours because every control-arm bolt was either seized or warped and turned into an absolute nightmare. To make matters worse, this "new" rear end has a nice hum to it, but it's still much better than the previous one.

$2,700 for the hood, rear end, and a car that ran? I'll take it as a win.

20231022_091037.jpgSnapchat-1556172722.jpg
Shortly after that, I started having charging-system problems. I replaced the alternator and battery, then rerouted the belt to bypass the smog pump, which was still on the car at the time but has since been removed, as well as the A/C compressor.

While replacing the alternator, I noticed the top mounting bracket was broken. The simple fix that has worked for a while now was just a longer bolt, some washers, and a little luck. I figured, while I was there, why not do plugs and wires too?

Eventually, I had to park the car for around a year. Life got in the way, but I made sure to start it and drive it around the block at least once a month just to keep everything moving.

The first time I started it up after the snow melted, I blew the lower radiator hose. That ended up snowballing into a laundry list of parts:
  • Upper and lower radiator hoses, plus all the bypass hoses
  • Thermostat
  • Timing-cover bolt kit, since two bolts had seized and gotten stuck in the block
  • Radiator
  • Coolant bottle, since someone had put a huge mess of JB Weld at the bottom of the old one to fill a crack
  • Tensioner, which had split in half
  • Ignition coil and pigtail, since I noticed the coil didn't have one
20260815_113134.jpg20260801_130401.jpg

For Christmas, my parents got me a 1–3 inch Raceland suspension kit, so while I'm at it, let's install that too.

20260801_090819.jpg

I get everything opened up and notice something odd...

Where are my sway-bar bushings? Matter of fact, where the hell is my mounting bracket???

Off I go to find and replace those too.
20260801_130357.jpg
Currently, that's where I'm at. I still have an exhaust leak and a transmission that only shifts when it's having a good day.

I've tried to address the exhaust leak with new Fel-Pro gaskets and a new header bolt kit at some point along the line, but that didn't seem to help much.

While I finish up the suspension work, I'm also doing all-new front brakes: calipers, rotors, pads, and hoses.

I'm sure there's a thing or two I've forgotten over the past three years, but the goal right now is to just get it back on the road before this winter. Hopefully, more mods will come in the future, but this current landslide of parts has put a delay on my plans.
 

96blak54

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Nice write up!

This is a great build thread start!

Youll notice other members here have also took similar shaped condition Mustangs and have totally transformed them into really nice rides. And, may I add, they did not do it over night. Actually took years to achieve the condition they wanted there car to be in. So dont feel like your car doesn't fit here at the forums, it very much does!

Keep the build going and dont forget to take pictures!
 
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Larimist

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Nice write up!

This is a great build thread start!

Youll notice other members here have also took similar shaped condition Mustangs and have totally transformed them into really nice rides. And, may I add, they did not do it over night. Actually took years to achieve the condition they wanted there car to be in. So dont feel like your car doesn't fit here at the forums, it very much does!

Keep the build going and dont forget to take pictures!
Thank you so much for the encouragement and welcome arms! I'll try and remember to update this thread as I press foward!
 

Bronco2Fan

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I call it going down the rabbit hole. While I was fixing this, I noticed this, and since I did this, I may as well do that, and so it goes lol.

Good job, keep it up.
 
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I call it going down the rabbit hole. While I was fixing this, I noticed this, and since I did this, I may as well do that, and so it goes lol.

Good job, keep it up.
That's a great outlook towards things, I'll keep that in mind going forward thank you!
 

CobraRGuy

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Got the car, 1995 GT 5.0 with the 5 speed manual, with a cracked fiberglass hood, a blown rear end, and an exhaust leak. On the more positive side, it had a B303 camshaft, some kind of underdrive pulleys, a short-throw shifter, and an upgraded clutch. I haven't verified what brand the clutch is because the transmission has been giving me a hard time, so I figured I'd replace both at the same time.

Luckily, the person who sold me the car had given me a new hood that just needed to be painted, along with another rear end. He claimed it had 3.73 gears, but I haven't double-checked that yet.

The first order of business was taking care of those two leftover projects from the previous owner. I don't have any pictures of the rear-end job. It ended up taking around 10 hours because every control-arm bolt was either seized or warped and turned into an absolute nightmare. To make matters worse, this "new" rear end has a nice hum to it, but it's still much better than the previous one.

$2,700 for the hood, rear end, and a car that ran? I'll take it as a win.

View attachment 50868View attachment 50869
Shortly after that, I started having charging-system problems. I replaced the alternator and battery, then rerouted the belt to bypass the smog pump, which was still on the car at the time but has since been removed, as well as the A/C compressor.

While replacing the alternator, I noticed the top mounting bracket was broken. The simple fix that has worked for a while now was just a longer bolt, some washers, and a little luck. I figured, while I was there, why not do plugs and wires too?

Eventually, I had to park the car for around a year. Life got in the way, but I made sure to start it and drive it around the block at least once a month just to keep everything moving.

The first time I started it up after the snow melted, I blew the lower radiator hose. That ended up snowballing into a laundry list of parts:
  • Upper and lower radiator hoses, plus all the bypass hoses
  • Thermostat
  • Timing-cover bolt kit, since two bolts had seized and gotten stuck in the block
  • Radiator
  • Coolant bottle, since someone had put a huge mess of JB Weld at the bottom of the old one to fill a crack
  • Tensioner, which had split in half
  • Ignition coil and pigtail, since I noticed the coil didn't have one
View attachment 50870View attachment 50871

For Christmas, my parents got me a 1–3 inch Raceland suspension kit, so while I'm at it, let's install that too.

View attachment 50873

I get everything opened up and notice something odd...

Where are my sway-bar bushings? Matter of fact, where the hell is my mounting bracket???

Off I go to find and replace those too.
View attachment 50872
Currently, that's where I'm at. I still have an exhaust leak and a transmission that only shifts when it's having a good day.

I've tried to address the exhaust leak with new Fel-Pro gaskets and a new header bolt kit at some point along the line, but that didn't seem to help much.

While I finish up the suspension work, I'm also doing all-new front brakes: calipers, rotors, pads, and hoses.

I'm sure there's a thing or two I've forgotten over the past three years, but the goal right now is to just get it back on the road before this winter. Hopefully, more mods will come in the future, but this current landslide of parts has put a delay on my plans.
My advice is to not use header gaskets at the head. RTV silicone is the way to go and is the only thing that every NASCAR team uses. Whatever color looks best. No, high temp silicone is not needed. A fairly thin coat is all it takes. It's all I've used for many years and have never had a leak
Recommended to me by a NASCAR crew chief.
 
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My advice is to not use header gaskets at the head. RTV silicone is the way to go and is the only thing that every NASCAR team uses. Whatever color looks best. No, high temp silicone is not needed. A fairly thin coat is all it takes. It's all I've used for many years and have never had a leak
Recommended to me by a NASCAR crew chief.
I might have to give that a try when I get around that job, thank you for the advice
 
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Quick little update: First start-up in 10 esh months was this past saturday, unfortunately leaking coolant out of my thermostat hosuing, fortunately thats it besides running a bit rough. Still have the susepnsion work to get done but with labor day weekend coming up that should be a breeze. Feeling like I had a small victory just wanted to share
 
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Alright, finally making some progress!

I found out that the original thermostat housing on the car was malformed, which was causing the coolant leak. I ran down to the local auto parts store, grabbed a new one, and figured the install would be quick and easy.

Got it installed, went to add coolant, and... it was leaking again! Turns out the new housing had a crack in the neck that I hadn't noticed until after the fact. ‍♂️

After waiting another week for a replacement and then reinstalling everything, we're finally in business! The car is running, holding coolant, and getting up to temperature like it should.

The front coilovers are installed, so I've just got the two rear shocks left to do, and then I should be ready to hit the road.

A buddy of mine stopped by and noticed that the ignition wires were crossed up—a job the previous owner had done. There's also a small misfire down low. He recommended doing a quick tune-up along with replacing the idle air control valve.

For now, though, I'm planning to just get the car on the road. Maybe over the winter I'll tackle the tune-up and clean up the remaining issues. This project has taken WAY longer than I expected, and at this point, I need to draw a line somewhere.

But we're finally getting there!
 
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If I owned my shop space I wouldn't be too worried but bouncing it around not running for almost a year has been a pain :/
 
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The car runs and drives now! I ended up replacing the plugs, wires, and the idle air control (IAC) valve because I had a surge at idle. It was surging way more than a normal cam chop—ranging from about 600 RPM to 2300 RPM. Afterward, it idled better but still had a severe surge; it would sit at 900 RPM, jump to about 2000 RPM, hang for a bit, and then drop again over and over.
I did some light research, and people recommended replacing the throttle position sensor (TPS). I figured, "Alright, no big deal, let's replace that." Now, my car has no proper idle control and is stuck at about 1800 RPM whether it is idling or in gear. I am thinking it is a vacuum issue, but I see a lot of people saying you need to adjust the IAC. From what I understand about the 1994 and 1995 models, there is no adjustment; the computer should figure it out on its own since they changed the system for those two years. I think I am going to tackle this with a vacuum leak mentality and see what happens. Does anyone have insight into this issue?
 

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