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Knightstallion

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Mine is a Davis unified summit racing don't sell them any more?
Accel ones at summit ckeck it out?
Alright, i'll try that, we had replaced that along with the ignition coil, but I've had a few people say that by not using motorcraft parts, I was just causing myself more problems
 

Knightstallion

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Use motorcraft didn't have one when I got mine?
Idk, I'll order from summit and see if it makes 212 get gone, you said dwell, so is the module shutting down before the ecu finishes checking everything, that's why it says it failed?
 

muzzy25

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Idk, I'll order from summit and see if it makes 212 get gone, you said dwell, so is the module shutting down before the ecu finishes checking everything, that's why it says it failed?
After market one had a longer dwell period
Ecu probley picking it up creating a code
I think 212 is not your problem
Have you cleaned your maf
Clean your iac valve
Cleck for air leaks
Idle reset?
Mine got 212 idles fine
 

Knightstallion

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After market one had a longer dwell period
Ecu probley picking it up creating a code
I think 212 is not your problem
Have you cleaned your maf
Clean your iac valve
Cleck for air leaks
Idle reset?
Mine got 212 idles fine
Mine was idling like crap, but the last few times it starts ok, but after a few minutes I starts heaving, up and down up and down... well I guess it's more like choking out a little and catching, I'll delete some of the pictures I put up here and try to load a video tomorrow when I get home. I had the maf cleaned, a shop said the put a new one in (last time I took it to a shop, now I'm doing the work) I cleaned the hell out of everything when I changed the injectors but the car hasn't run any better since I cleaned the throttle body (I used the correct cleaner for everything) nothing I was doing was making much if any difference, that's why I pulled the ecu, and replaced it. I've read so many things about these particular cars doing this to all kinds of owners, everyone seems to have the same problem, but dozens of solutions or none at all. I did work to the vacuum lines from under the fender to the motor, but the only thing I've checked so far for proper vacuum is the fuel pressure regulator, I guess I should add that I went up from 19 to 22 lbs on the injectors
 

ttocs

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next time it starts doing the surging try playing with each of the harnesses that you can see and reach. The IAC, TPS for example are right on top and can cause problems if the harnesses are not making good contact and I have had issues with a harness causing problems while it was running, after it got hot. All you need to do is push/pull/tug on each one and they should stay connected tight and the motor should not change how its running while you do it. If the motor starts to run differently while you do it, you might have found the problem.
 

Knightstallion

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next time it starts doing the surging try playing with each of the harnesses that you can see and reach. The IAC, TPS for example are right on top and can cause problems if the harnesses are not making good contact and I have had issues with a harness causing problems while it was running, after it got hot. All you need to do is push/pull/tug on each one and they should stay connected tight and the motor should not change how its running while you do it. If the motor starts to run differently while you do it, you might have found the problem.
Yeah alot of my clips are broken and some do come off way easier than others, speaking of which, there has to be tools to disconnect those assorted plugs, anyone know what I would be searching for, if I wanted to find a set. I have been toying with the idea of replacing the connectors at minimum or possible run an entire new harness design, so for instance I want to pull the motor, have a connection close to the top that disconnects the entire motor right there
 

ttocs

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THAT I bet will be part of your problem. The TPS I found the problem with had a broken clip and when it was hot it was really loose. The tps for example reads how the resistance in a variable resistor increases when you give it gas. When the connection is loose it reads a different resistance and that can throw the entire tune off because in my case it thought I was giving it 7% gas when at idle. Take a close look at all the connectors and replace any with broken clips. Also if they are loose to where you can just pop them off replace them. I was amazed at how hard it was to get the new harness on and off of the tps after replacing it.
 

Knightstallion

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THAT I bet will be part of your problem. The TPS I found the problem with had a broken clip and when it was hot it was really loose. The tps for example reads how the resistance in a variable resistor increases when you give it gas. When the connection is loose it reads a different resistance and that can throw the entire tune off because in my case it thought I was giving it 7% gas when at idle. Take a close look at all the connectors and replace any with broken clips. Also if they are loose to where you can just pop them off replace them. I was amazed at how hard it was to get the new harness on and off of the tps after replacing it.
Alright, I'll start working on that today. I have some of the connector pin tools and I'm excited for a reason to use them
 

Makoto

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the key is understanding why the idle is surging. what is happening when that happens?

something is letting the engine have air because it thinks it needs air.

what lets the engine have air?

1. throttle body
2. iacv

make sure all air channels in the throttle body are clear. if they are blocked this can cause issues as it is linked to the IACV
if the ECU thinks the engine is air deprived it will open up the IACV.

what meters air?

the MAF. what reads the MAF data? the ECU. you replaced that already right? was it a good unit?

what does all of this assume? no vacuum leaks.

oh and also if you have a bad O2 that will make the car run like shit as well.

here's what i would do (i had the same issue with my 94 302 f150) [in this order]:

1. unplug the MAF and crank the car. does it surge? if no then that's probably your problem. clean it and replace it if that doesn't help.
2. replace the O2 sensor(s?) if you're never done it.
3. check for vacuum leaks (crank the car and use starter fluid to squirt where it might be leaking, finding a leak will make it rev up) [be careful starter fluid is highly flammable]
4. test and or replace the IACV
 

Knightstallion

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the key is understanding why the idle is surging. what is happening when that happens?

something is letting the engine have air because it thinks it needs air.

what lets the engine have air?

1. throttle body
2. iacv

make sure all air channels in the throttle body are clear. if they are blocked this can cause issues as it is linked to the IACV
if the ECU thinks the engine is air deprived it will open up the IACV.

what meters air?

the MAF. what reads the MAF data? the ECU. you replaced that already right? was it a good unit?

what does all of this assume? no vacuum leaks.

oh and also if you have a bad O2 that will make the car run like shit as well.

here's what i would do (i had the same issue with my 94 302 f150) [in this order]:

1. unplug the MAF and crank the car. does it surge? if no then that's probably your problem. clean it and replace it if that doesn't help.
2. replace the O2 sensor(s?) if you're never done it.
3. check for vacuum leaks (crank the car and use starter fluid to squirt where it might be leaking, finding a leak will make it rev up) [be careful starter fluid is highly flammable]
4. test and or replace the IACV
Ok I will try the checklist, never tried 1 it has new o2 sensors (not sure if they are for my car cause the leads are 4 foot long) the vacuum is a question, I replaced everything from the passenger side fender (inside at the valves, I don't know exactly what they're for haven't researched that far yet, I just made sure I ran them exactly how they were) all the way to the engine.... BUT!!! .... I used rubber lines covered in braided stainless steel, they are probably a little bigger, and possibly (I'm sure in a couple spots) disliking the angle and type of connectors I used) tomorrow I will work on that too
 

Knightstallion

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on mine I just got a new harness and soldered it on.
Ok I haven't replaced anything yet, but there are a lot that I'm going to, my fan was not coming on though, so I took this module out and am about to ring it, I looked inside (I need to clean up the aftermarket security shat) there are 2 boxes in the center under the radio, they have an impressive amount of wires going to them, one is blue, the other is aluminum, anyone know what they are
 

Knightstallion

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Idk if you guys can see this good enough, but I found a thread saying something about the pick up coil ended up being the problem in a couple sn95s, said it was discovered by accident when they were replaced with motorcraft pickups. So I checked my engine again, I found one plug on the fan harness that wasn't clicked all the way, I found 2 vacuum lines that had broken the 90s I connected them with. then I pulled the distributor cap, I see a little carbon, but I'm not sure if it's more that it should be, regardless the car is still running the same, I pulled some of the connections while it was running as it was suggested, it either almost shut off completely or got worse, any more ideas, is there a way to check the pickup without pulling the distributor?
 

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white95

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Idk if you guys can see this good enough, but I found a thread saying something about the pick up coil ended up being the problem in a couple sn95s, said it was discovered by accident when they were replaced with motorcraft pickups. So I checked my engine again, I found one plug on the fan harness that wasn't clicked all the way, I found 2 vacuum lines that had broken the 90s I connected them with. then I pulled the distributor cap, I see a little carbon, but I'm not sure if it's more that it should be, regardless the car is still running the same, I pulled some of the connections while it was running as it was suggested, it either almost shut off completely or got worse, any more ideas, is there a way to check the pickup without pulling the distributor?

Check the wiring going to the coil. I had mine stop running in traffic years ago because it wasn’t making a good connection.
 

Knightstallion

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Check the wiring going to the coil. I had mine stop running in traffic years ago because it wasn’t making a good connection.
That's how all this started, I was about to try and race a guy I work with and mine just sputtered and died, but I've been fighting this for almost a year now, and replaced the distributor once, but you're talking about the small plug, at the base of the distributor, I think those go down in it, it's also still giving a always rich code, 2 actually, the other codes are probably because I couldn't respond to the prompts being out of the driver's seat
 

ttocs

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it could be a problem with a wire harness when like I had with my TPS. Nest time its having problems get technical with it and try to put your hands on any wiring or wire harness going to the motor that you can. Grab them, push, pull and jiggle all the connections and see if you can get the motor to studder when you are dicking with a particular wire harness and eventually down to the single wire to isolate the problem
 

Knightstallion

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Is that broken or is it supposed to be like that
 

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