Left rear window regulator 94 GT convertible

Lonnie2

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Newbie needs help!

My left rear power window went down over the weekend and won't move back up. I hear the motor running and the clunk clunk clunk sound but no movement.

Window motors are everywhere but I can't seem to locate a regulator assy anyplace.

I checked all the Mustang parts houses, eBay, and Amazon all without success.
I don't have a garage, I'm using painters plastic and a car cover at the moment.

Am I even on the right track? Any advice would be very much appreciated!

Lonnie2
 
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Lonnie2

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It’s rarely ever the regulator. But if you feel that you need one...

https://mpsautosalvage.com/

https://www.car-part.com/

Thank you, maybe that's why I can't find one anyplace. Since I hear the cyclical clunking sound I thought I had a working window motor.
I really appreciate your input as I'm a newbie

I've only had this car a little over a year with 28k original but it sat undriven 10 years in a hot Florida garage before I got it so it has been an $$$ interesting first year.
 

Flade

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The motors have small plastic pieces that engage the gears. Over time they fail and the windows don’t like to go back up. What is really weird is that the rear windows tend to fail a lot. The motors are the same as the front but the front windows weight a lot more. My best guess is the rear windows don’t get used a lot and that contributes to the high failure rate. I have probably replaced my rear motors 3 or 4 times since 94. In fact one failed when the car was less than a month old. Just buy an aftermarket replacement with a lifetime warranty and replace it. With a bit of practice they can be swapped in under 30 mins. If you have never removed the rear panels before expect it to take 60-90 mins.
 

MyLittlePony

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My experience is that whatever you buy will be wrong. You will somehow get one for a new SN95, which bolts up weird. I think I had to install my passenger rear about 4 times, and my drivers rear about six, ultimately having my husband do it for me. It finally worked when he did it, but now it wants to keep going up or keep going down until I stop pressing the button. Should auto stop like the other 3 I would think.

I also have a front passenger motor that randomly decides to work or not. I recently noticed though, that the last time it failed, after putting the car on the charger, it rolled back normally, as if the motor wasn’t getting enough current, even though I could probably have started up the car without issue.

My other experience is that if you buy anything with a lifetime warranty, if it’s a seller on eBay, they will go out of business before you can claim it.

The 60-90 minute job for a newb no joke. The entire panel has to be removed. I don’t think it involves the seat, but it’s definitely a pain because you have to remove the speaker housing too. It is a huge PITA just to gain access to where it is, and that’s just half of it!!!

I’ve had my 94 since 98, and I’m on my 2nd or 3rd motor for each of the 4 windows. It’s a simple fix in that it’s affordable and that even a stay at home mom can do it, but it’s still a major PITA.
 

Orl1mjf

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Auto zone sells a repair kit for the window motors in the help section of the store, roughly 10.00. It’s not too Difficult to replace the bushings, remove the rear panels, remove the rear speakers, remove plastic cover and then you have access to the motors. You have to pry the tabs of the motor cover off, then dump out all the broken pieces, add some grease to the drive shaft, and then replace the bushings. Replace the cover, bend the tabs back down and replace the way you removed.
 

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Rtfm

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Get the plastic rollers shown above at any auto parts store. They will be a little too large to fit in your stock motor, but a quick grinding down with a dremel tool or sanding belt will make them fit. Use a little grease and put it all together.
These plastic inserts are made to break if the window is stopped by an arm or body part caught when rolling up. The plastic degraded over time until one day you experience just what you have described.
Another method is to use nuts that will just fit (I forgot the size). However, with metal nuts, you won’t have the safety factor to prevent damage to someone when rolling the window up.
 
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Lonnie2

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My experience is that whatever you buy will be wrong. You will somehow get one for a new SN95, which bolts up weird. I think I had to install my passenger rear about 4 times, and my drivers rear about six, ultimately having my husband do it for me. It finally worked when he did it, but now it wants to keep going up or keep going down until I stop pressing the button. Should auto stop like the other 3 I would think.

I also have a front passenger motor that randomly decides to work or not. I recently noticed though, that the last time it failed, after putting the car on the charger, it rolled back normally, as if the motor wasn’t getting enough current, even though I could probably have started up the car without issue.

My other experience is that if you buy anything with a lifetime warranty, if it’s a seller on eBay, they will go out of business before you can claim it.

The 60-90 minute job for a newb no joke. The entire panel has to be removed. I don’t think it involves the seat, but it’s definitely a pain because you have to remove the speaker housing too. It is a huge PITA just to gain access to where it is, and that’s just half of it!!!

I’ve had my 94 since 98, and I’m on my 2nd or 3rd motor for each of the 4 windows. It’s a simple fix in that it’s affordable and that even a stay at home mom can do it, but it’s still a major PITA.
 
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Lonnie2

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Thanks, belive it on not that makes me feel better.
I'm on my 3rd window motor this year.
Maybe it's just one of those things that's peculiar about our cars.

Take care!
 
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Lonnie2

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Auto zone sells a repair kit for the window motors in the help section of the store, roughly 10.00. It’s not too Difficult to replace the bushings, remove the rear panels, remove the rear speakers, remove plastic cover and then you have access to the motors. You have to pry the tabs of the motor cover off, then dump out all the broken pieces, add some grease to the drive shaft, and then replace the bushings. Replace the cover, bend the tabs back down and replace the way you removed.

Thank you for offering a different option.
 
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Lonnie2

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Get the plastic rollers shown above at any auto parts store. They will be a little too large to fit in your stock motor, but a quick grinding down with a dremel tool or sanding belt will make them fit. Use a little grease and put it all together.
These plastic inserts are made to break if the window is stopped by an arm or body part caught when rolling up. The plastic degraded over time until one day you experience just what you have described.
Another method is to use nuts that will just fit (I forgot the size). However, with metal nuts, you won’t have the safety factor to prevent damage to someone when rolling the window up.

Thanks, sounds like you have been there and done that before!
 

Rons95GT

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My driver’s window in my ‘95 coupe is doing the same thing. I’ve had the car for 23 years and never had a problem. Then I take it to a shop for fuel system upgrades and dyno tuning and when I pick it up my window isn’t working right and my power seat is totally dead. I’m kinda pissed off about it. I can’t see how that’s all a coincidence but I can’t prove anything. Now I have to deal with fixing those problems.
 

MyLittlePony

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My driver’s window in my ‘95 coupe is doing the same thing. I’ve had the car for 23 years and never had a problem. Then I take it to a shop for fuel system upgrades and dyno tuning and when I pick it up my window isn’t working right and my power seat is totally dead. I’m kinda pissed off about it. I can’t see how that’s all a coincidence but I can’t prove anything. Now I have to deal with fixing those problems.

Check the fuse for the power seat. I think the cigarette lighter is tied to it, and is easy to short out. A big enough ant can short out those.
 

Rons95GT

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Check the fuse for the power seat. I think the cigarette lighter is tied to it, and is easy to short out. A big enough ant can short out those.
Thanks for the input. I did check the fuse under the hood and replaced it even though it didn’t look bad. I read somewhere that someone fixed theirs by replacing one of the fuses under the dash but the car manual doesn’t link any of those to the power seat. Does anyone know something about this?
 

Rons95GT

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Well, I found the problem with the power seat. It wasn’t the fuse itself but where the fuse plugs in under the hood. I went back and looked at it and the connections were too far apart. The fuse leg wasn’t making contact on one side. Bent it in and now it works.
 

MyLittlePony

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When I click your Red Mustang Registry link (My 95 is Laser Red), my anti-virus software blocks it as a dangerous site!

Strange. Thank you for letting me know. We recently changed ISPs, and the port forwarding wasn’t set up, so the site was actually down for a week.
 
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