Hey guys. I'm toying with the idea of getting long tube headers, really would like to see some input on what the people are running and what the results are like. I currently have a 331 that puts out 360rwhp through BBK small shories, and I think I have a lot to gain by going to a good set of long tubes. The possible obstacles could be: Ground clearance. The car is not low, but I don't want them to drag on the floor either. Motor shifted back an inch. The motor has been set back one inch on the MM k-member, so I'm sure that will affect firewall clearance as well as the steering shaft clearance (MM solid shaft) Good design and collector. Most of the long tube headers I've seen so far for 94-95 V8 have a horrible collector where the primaries are just dumped into a cone without being merged. From what I've been told by the exhaust builder I know, that's where you lose or gain power on the headers. Proper length tuning as well as the primary size matters too. Well, let's hear it!
I ran bbk longtubes with my engine set back one inch. . No interference and it actually help my x pipe tuck in a lil better. . But my collectors did drag sometimes depending on slopes..
Have pictures of the underside by any chance? Also I've already seen BBKs and their collectors are much like the ones they have on shorties. There is no merging, and no velocity spike. Primaries are tiny as well.
I love my Mac LT's. Don't kill ground clearance, I have no issues and I'm dropped a good 1.25" up front. Fits like a glove, can't speak for your modifications though. [MENTION=8293]OnyxCobra[/MENTION] I'm sure will back me up on MAC
I don't and the car is I'm my back yard apart.. yes they don't merge it just dumps into the collectors. .
I know [MENTION=14887]LilRoush[/MENTION] mentioned putting shorties back on after switching to LT's for the bottom end torque for coming out of turns on his track car. I know you track the car, only reason I say so lol
I've been looking around, and the key here is to pick the right size tubes for operation range. I know if you go overboard, you could easily lose a lot of bottom end torque for not much of top end, making the car slower overall.
I have BBK long tubes so I'll just answer your bullet points. 1. You won't have a problem. The ground clearance is, obviously, lesser than shorties but even I don't have much of a problem. I say "not much of a problem" because on daily driving everything is fine, but pulling into a driveway like my buddy's that has the small curb across it instead of dropping flush with the street is something I've had a problem with. I've gone across a few speedbumps very slow and at an angle and haven't scraped. Here's the best clearance pic I can think of right now. 2. The steering the shaft I don't know about at the moment. I have the stock K member and steering shaft. 3. The design and collector are very nice. The collectors are welded into one just before the collector. If you look into the collector the separate primaries are about 4" in. Here's the best shot of the collector out of the car.
I originally wasn't going to comment because my engine is in the stock location but my Mac 1 3/4" headers fit fantastic. I'm thinking to envision what problems you may have with the engine back an inch, it really might be okay but I can't say for sure.
Random question for OnyxCobra, how do you like the Steeda #19 cam? After running different alphabet cams, getting pretty tired of the typical idle surging and dying issues. I heard that is one of the only cams for the 94-95 that doesn't have those issues. Are you running the stock 165 springs with it? Thanks.
the only perk to my kooks was that they built the collectors properly... (modular product, not sure on their push-rod products.)
I like it, before any tuning the car ran decent most of the time but would still act up once in a while. When I ordered my 165s I got them with the upgraded valve springs because I didn't want to chance any valve float.
I can second the steeda 19 info. Like said most the time it runs just fine. Every now and then tho clutch can be in n the car just shuts off..no surge before just dies. I'm hoping a tune in the spring fixes that. It only surges now on start up if it's pretty cold..<50°
Guys, I always been a shorty user but I am using this time on my swap a Full lenght ones. Do you guys can put the engine back with the tranny and the headers? or is it better without the headers?
From my understanding, you can put it back in however you want: with trans and headers, with trans but no header, no trans or headers, etc. Most of the time I have seen people their engines back in with trans and headers. I have not gotten around to pulling my engine yet, so I don't know from personal experience (not yet anyway). But all the research and preparation I have done, looks like people just drop the whole thing, trans and headers, back in as a whole.
whiplash473, those BBKs definitely look like a good fit, but that collector leaves a lot to be desired. If you want to take a look at a good collector, check out either American Racing Headers, or Kooks.
Since this is a good of a place as any, anybody know if either the BBKs or Kooks will fit when using a 351W when using drop mounts without whacking up against absolutely everything lol?
I have had LTs that are painted and some that were chromed, and some that are ceramic coated. All I have to say is ceramic coated is worth every penny and I will never buy another set of longtubes that isn't.
My question is if fox long tubes fit fine on these cars? I have the chance to buy some 1-3/4" BBK long tubes for cheap but they're for the fox. I've heard they'll fit and I've heard they interfere with the clutch fork. Opinions? Also, will there be much gain over my shortie equal lengths now? I've got a fairly stock motor but it has Trickflow heads and a Cobra intake.