Lights Don’t Work

Daryl

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 5, 2020
Messages
4,040
Reaction score
2,202
Location
Somis, CA
Headlights and fog lights stopped working. I’ve checked and re-checked ALL fuses in both fuse boxes. Replaced all 3 relays in the engine compartment fuse box as a preventative measure (30 yrs old). Every fuse has the proper amp fuse in it. Yet, when I pull the headlight switch the headlights don’t come on, just the amber running lights.

I recently mentioned in a separate thread that the plunger (?) came all the way out. I’ve since shoved it back in there, gave it a decent pop to see if it just needed to go in further and it doesn’t pull all the way out anymore.

I tried the fogs when only the running lights came on not expecting them to activate and sure enough…nothing. Fog light switch in the center console is properly connected.

All wiring to the headlights and fogs under the front end of the car appears fine (ie, just as it was before they stopped working). So I’m more than a little confused WHY they’re not working OR what caused them to stop working??

As always, I greatly appreciate your help, feedback and input but keep in mind that I don’t know jacksh*t about electrical so you have to explain it to me like I’m learning a new language on Day 1.

Thanks!
 

ttocs

Forum's #1 poster
Joined
Oct 9, 2009
Messages
37,074
Reaction score
7,450
Location
Evansville Indiana
I would start behind the switch. See if you have power on the headlight wire with the lights on to confirm it is a bad switch but I bet it is the switch.
 
OP
OP
Daryl

Daryl

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 5, 2020
Messages
4,040
Reaction score
2,202
Location
Somis, CA
If I do end up having to replace the switch, is a NOS MotorCraft worth it or a AutoZone/O’Reilly’s/NAPA just as good quality and longevity-wise?
 

duh09

Moderator
Staff
Joined
Apr 23, 2008
Messages
9,909
Reaction score
1,303
Location
Memphis-ish
NOS Motorcraft is always nice, but nothing wrong with a store bought. Check the pigtail on the back of the switch too, they're bad about getting hot and melting a bit.
 

gopanoz

New Member
Joined
Nov 28, 2007
Messages
31
Reaction score
7
LMR had some NOS oem last year when I replaced mine. Also youtube there were couple very helpful vids showing process to replace.
 

ttocs

Forum's #1 poster
Joined
Oct 9, 2009
Messages
37,074
Reaction score
7,450
Location
Evansville Indiana
if you need to replace the harness, just do one wire at a time. Cut the wire on the top of the harness, connect it to the wire on top of your harness and then move on to cutting the next wire. They rarely have matching colors. Crimp would be acceptable here although I would still solder/shrink them myself.
 
OP
OP
Daryl

Daryl

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 5, 2020
Messages
4,040
Reaction score
2,202
Location
Somis, CA
Wiring looks fine. No hotspots, melting, nothing. Knob and rod look in good shape. So I got a replacement switch. Think I’ll get the front end off the ground again and double-check wires and connections… just for a feel good. They were fine handful of months ago then just stopped working for no apparent reason.

There is this connector doohickey that pierces down onto one of the wires. There’s a short, red wire that sticks out maybe only 3” from behind the gauge cluster that was connected to it but I’m unsure how it made contact or a solid connection because the wires aren’t crimped and there’s no (obvious) way they are held in place to secure a connection. The black, 2-pc tube pierces the red/yellow wire.

First pic kinda crappy, sorry . You have to expand it to see that red wire.

Second pic is that black tube that the red wire in the first pic was connected to.

Third pic shows how one end of the black tube, which screws on in 2 pieces, pierces the red/yellow wire.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4348.jpeg
    IMG_4348.jpeg
    166.4 KB · Views: 21
  • IMG_4350.jpeg
    IMG_4350.jpeg
    153.1 KB · Views: 21
  • IMG_4351.jpeg
    IMG_4351.jpeg
    143.4 KB · Views: 21

ttocs

Forum's #1 poster
Joined
Oct 9, 2009
Messages
37,074
Reaction score
7,450
Location
Evansville Indiana
disconnect the harness from the switch and look for heat/melting on the front face of it to be sure but it looks ok. What are the extra wires for?
 
OP
OP
Daryl

Daryl

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 5, 2020
Messages
4,040
Reaction score
2,202
Location
Somis, CA
disconnect the harness from the switch and look for heat/melting on the front face of it to be sure but it looks ok. What are the extra wires for?
Beats me; the 2 extra wires go unused.
That’s all I found about them.
 

joemomma

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 9, 2020
Messages
1,453
Reaction score
959
Did your car have an aftermarket alarm system or anything at one point? Maybe there was some tinkering there to tap into the lights for alarm use?
 

ttocs

Forum's #1 poster
Joined
Oct 9, 2009
Messages
37,074
Reaction score
7,450
Location
Evansville Indiana
they look like factory wire colors. Stick a meter on them and see what happens with the lights on/off. I think the orange could be a dimmer wire but not sure about it.
 
OP
OP
Daryl

Daryl

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 5, 2020
Messages
4,040
Reaction score
2,202
Location
Somis, CA
No, but I’m taking it to a shop tomorrow morning. Hopefully they’ll fix it
 

ttocs

Forum's #1 poster
Joined
Oct 9, 2009
Messages
37,074
Reaction score
7,450
Location
Evansville Indiana
is the shop any good with electronic troubleshooting? It really is a dying art now that just does not seem to be taught to the new techs. If the confusor doesn't tell them what is wrong they have no idea.
 
OP
OP
Daryl

Daryl

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 5, 2020
Messages
4,040
Reaction score
2,202
Location
Somis, CA
is the shop any good with electronic troubleshooting? It really is a dying art now that just does not seem to be taught to the new techs. If the confusor doesn't tell them what is wrong they have no idea.
Yes, they’re quite adept AND love the older cars++
 

Forum statistics

Threads
78,325
Messages
1,531,531
Members
16,017
Latest member
sway

Members online

No members online now.
Top