ttocs
Post Whore
that is all you need. Start off grounding one side and then check each of the pins on the back of the switch and tell me what you have. If I remember correctly there should be 2 pins with 12 volts on them constant.
Lock Switch Not Working
- Thread starter J-rod17
- Start date
ok....passenger side has nothing. Driver side confused me. It WAS working. When I tested pink to black I had 0 volts. Hit black to black on accident and got 12 volts.
now neither lock switch is working again .
i don't think it's the fuse cause the trunk popper still works and it's on the same fuse.
i don't have a spare 20a fuse like this big metal one so I'll run to AAP and see what I can get, but I don't think it's an issue.
ttocs
Post Whore
do you still have/use the stock keyless entry?
mine does not have keyless entry.
ttocs
Post Whore
it doesn't have it or you don't use it? Just wondering if you have ever checked as I have seen some strange problems coming up that were traced back to the factory keyless. Check your trunk if you have not and if there is one there disconnect the hrns going to it. You can also try swapping the switches in the hrns to see if it is a bad switch. Carefully put a flat head screw driver between the switch and the housing and you can pry them out. Try swapping them around and see if the problem changes. Otherwise its time to grab your test light or meter and start probing to see what you find.
it does not have it.
There is no box in the driver side rear trunk for it at all.
When I tested the wires at the switch location (door) I got nothing on pass side. as I mentioned earlier.
have I mentioned I hate electrical issues? LOL
There is no box in the driver side rear trunk for it at all.
When I tested the wires at the switch location (door) I got nothing on pass side. as I mentioned earlier.
have I mentioned I hate electrical issues? LOL
ttocs
Post Whore
I didn't see you checked earlier. Did you try the driver side switch with the meter?
ttocs
Post Whore
don't assume the black wires are ground and find a solid part of the chassis in the car to ground to and then test the wires. Also did you try prying the switches out and swapping them around? Like I said earlier this is a master/slave switch system which means that if the master switch stops working, the slave will as too. But if the slave malfunctions then the master can keep working. If you swap the switches and then one switch works we will have it narrowed down. The 5-wire systems are great for ford for cost cutting but always been tough to trouble shoot.
You mean the actual lock switches? I assume not as they are not interchangeable. The driver side lock switch only fits driver and passenger only fits passenger.
I will try grounding straight to the battery. I think I have enough wire and alligator clips to do it.
FivepointSlow
Well-Known Member
Are you sure about this? I'm pretty positive the switches are identical and interchangeable between sides.
Crapatalkin' on the iPhone 5.0
the letters would be backwards iirc. Also the tab on the outside of the switch is different on each side.
again going from memory. stang is home I drove the Jeep.
even so I have several switches I have tried.....
ttocs
Post Whore
that's interesting I have trouble shot a couple of cars by having them swap them around.
As you can see from my switches.....The red one is an 'L' shaped tab and the black one is a small square tab.
This panel here fits the square end tab switch:
ttocs
Post Whore
ok sorry that is news to me. While they are out see if you can tighten up the pins they slide into to ensure they have a good contact.
Short of that fixing it we are down to the point that everyone hates to get too. its time to trace the wires and see if there is a broken connection somewhere and the difficulty there is how the wiring goes. Its not hard to trace it up to the kick panels but from there it goes into the dash hrns that you would need to basically pull the dash out to trace....
Short of that fixing it we are down to the point that everyone hates to get too. its time to trace the wires and see if there is a broken connection somewhere and the difficulty there is how the wiring goes. Its not hard to trace it up to the kick panels but from there it goes into the dash hrns that you would need to basically pull the dash out to trace....
no need to be sorry. I expected myself to be wrong. LOL.
I will try and test with a volt meter again, and try changing out switches. I have already snugged up the terminals the switch pins connect to.
If it gets down to tracing wires in the dash I will put the panels back on the doors and say screw it. LOL.
I guess I could understand electrical issues of broken/hacked wires if this car had been hacked on before...but it appeared to be a virgin minus the SLP's when I got it.
I will try and test with a volt meter again, and try changing out switches. I have already snugged up the terminals the switch pins connect to.
If it gets down to tracing wires in the dash I will put the panels back on the doors and say screw it. LOL.
I guess I could understand electrical issues of broken/hacked wires if this car had been hacked on before...but it appeared to be a virgin minus the SLP's when I got it.
ttocs
Post Whore
the 5-wire system is a strange beast and if it has just the slightest bad connection it can lead to nothing working depending on where it is.
