Lock Switch Not Working

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J-rod17

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well I was going to work on the switches with the volt meter, but I didnt have much time.

I did however hit the driver side lock switch and it is working again! wth? lol.

still nothing from the passenger side. driver side worked many times. I switched out 3 different switches for pass side and nothing.
 

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you have a bad connection somewhere and the worst kind too since its coming on/off so often. They can be a pia to track down as when you think you have it, it dies again... Unfortunatly short of following the wires and pulling/tugging/manipulating them to try and create the problem there isn't much you can do short of replacing the entire hrns which is a big pia.
 
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J-rod17

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This something an aftermarket keyless entry system could remedy?

if not I'll just slap the door panel back on and forget it. I'm not chasing wires in the dash. I'm not qualified for that.
 
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ok. Guess I give up then.

Thanks for all your help. Truly appreciate it.

If I ever find out anything about that jumper wire I may try it again. but until then I am not going digging into the wiring through the kick panel and dash. just not something I can do.
 

ttocs

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the 5-wire system like I said was great for ford to save $$ on parts but it will give the most experience installer a head ache chasing gremlins around it. Best case scenario is just try to isolate what you moved and when it started moving. Could be as simple as a door closing that rattles the connection so you can try to replicate the problem by tapping/knocking on parts of the door panel to see if it starts/stops.
 
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I'm sure you would have posted already if you had it but do you have a schematic for the door wiring?
 
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J-rod17

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Guy on the SN95 Forums FB page mentioned door lock actuator. Not something I had considered since the door still locks/unlocks from the driver side.....

Thoughts?

$25.00 each side from RockAuto....not too bad if it works. LOL
 

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a bad connection at any point in the circuit could cause the problems your having so it could be the actuators but I wouldn't throw parts at it with out testing it first. This could be done by simply tapping on the back of the open door to see if it would cause the problem to come/go. The actuator is mounted there and some technical taps should help to expose it if its a problem.

I got sidetracked on the wiring schematic because I was knee deep in installing an off board voltage regulator to the bigger alternator I am installing. I am not sure I have ever had 3 different instructions/manuals out at the same time(alt/regulator/mustang) to figure something out before. I just got done and taking a break, I will look at what it says for the locks there might be a troubleshooting guide for the locks.
 
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No worries. I appreciate all the help this far.

I will try what you suggested next time I am out with the car
 
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tapped around the actuator and nothing. opened and closed door and tried switch as door was swinging. No luck.

put the volt meter on the driver side and the two black wires I circled here have a constant 12V. Nothing on the passenger side has a constant 12V.
 

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ok thanks looking over it all now. Takes some sorting out too see what is important and what is not.
 
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I'm lost so whatever guidance you can share the better. Lol
 

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