LT header install...

Bill94vert

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k i just bought some Mac LTs for the 94.. am i going to have a bitch putting them in? is it worth the money to pay someone to do it and what should it cost to have it done?
 

Matt94GT

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me being me I would deff pay someone for that job, you gotta slightly lift the motor or tilt it. I would guess like $250ish prob locally for install (CAD) I would talk to billys mustang or one of those guys might do it cheaper.
 

NITROUSINJECTED

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it isnt that hard as people say it is just try and do it yourself save the money and spend it else where is what i would do
 

QIKGTS

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Are those headers used? If so they may be extra difficult to get on because they have no flange for the primaries.

I did my BBK's on a lift and never had to move the engine, just the steering shaft. One side went in under the car and the other went in from the top. Have you looked at doing it that way? If you can get the car up on ramps or on taller, heavy duty jackstands, you may be able to get one side in from the bottom if you need to.
 
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Bill94vert

Bill94vert

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they headers are new macs. I would use a lift if i had one but havnt had the money to throw more equipment in the shop so jackstands it is.. which side did you put on from the bottom?
 

RIO5.0

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I have Mac LTs...The drivers side is gravy....Slides in from the top. The pass side I had to slide in from undermeath, I undid the motor mounts, using a 2X4 block under the oilpan I jacked it off the mounts, pushed the motor over to the drivers side and got the header in...Left the starter in place to...Pass side was more of a hassle but nothing to killer....Set aside an a/noon and youll be good to go...
You have the O2 extensions?

33177.jpg
 

Lightning Struck

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RIO5.0 said:
I have Mac LTs...The drivers side is gravy....Slides in from the top. The pass side I had to slide in from undermeath, I undid the motor mounts, using a 2X4 block under the oilpan I jacked it off the mounts, pushed the motor over to the drivers side and got the header in...Left the starter in place to...Pass side was more of a hassle but nothing to killer....Set aside an a/noon and youll be good to go...
You have the O2 extensions?

33177.jpg

Nice pic of that excellent exhaust
 

Purple1995Pony

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not too bad unless you have a 5-point k-member chassis brace under there....had to modify mine to keep it ... i like the extra stiffener .... and if your vert is lowered.....fuggetaboutit .... never try speedbumps again....or anything else more than 2-1/2" high
 

94gtstang50

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Snakebit said:
RIO5.0 said:
I have Mac LTs...The drivers side is gravy....Slides in from the top. The pass side I had to slide in from undermeath, I undid the motor mounts, using a 2X4 block under the oilpan I jacked it off the mounts, pushed the motor over to the drivers side and got the header in...Left the starter in place to...Pass side was more of a hassle but nothing to killer....Set aside an a/noon and youll be good to go...
You have the O2 extensions?

33177.jpg

Nice pic of that excellent exhaust
Thats a sweet setup, would love to have that on mine. Must sound awesome.
 
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Bill94vert

Bill94vert

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RIO5.0 said:
I have Mac LTs...The drivers side is gravy....Slides in from the top. The pass side I had to slide in from undermeath, I undid the motor mounts, using a 2X4 block under the oilpan I jacked it off the mounts, pushed the motor over to the drivers side and got the header in...Left the starter in place to...Pass side was more of a hassle but nothing to killer....Set aside an a/noon and youll be good to go...
You have the O2 extensions?

33177.jpg
great thanks! i dont have the o2 extensions yet. my vert does have that 5 point k member brace and is also lowered. So should i ditch the brace? what mid pipe is that? I wont be diving into this for atleast 2 weeks car is still in the shop waiting for paint.
 

QIKGTS

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For what it's worth you may be able to just pull some slack out of the harnesses for the o2's and not use the extensions. I was able to on my car but my o2's had wires a little longer than stock.
 

NITROUSINJECTED

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YEAH YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO JUST REROUTE YOUR 02 WIRES AND THEY SHOULD HOOK UP JUST FINE
 

RIO5.0

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The system I run is Mac LTs / Promchamber / Spintech Sportsmans with 2.5 tails....and ya it does sound sweet.....I swapped back on the stock muffs last Fall and dumped em just for something different and a tad quieter....I swap the Sportsmans on in the Spring and dump them to...Sounds real good...for awhile anyway....I tend to hide from cops though...

I added about 14" of the correct gage wire on to my O2s rather than buy the extensions....

If you don't have a Kirban or the like it might be worth getting one...Mine ran pig rich, and the MPG to a serious dump after the LT/Prochbr went on...adding the Kirban allowed me to dial back the FP some....I put in new plugs and checked em every other day and upped the FP a few lbs at a wack...Its a poor mans tune to let the computer catch up....lean it out some til the puter can adapt....then dial it back up...I didn't really romp on it while taking the fuel out, just to be on the safe side...

These are mine original 55k muffs. Mate right up to the mid-pipe perfect and hits all the hangers..:thumb:

10502.jpg
 

ryclef331

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i run mac long tubes, pro-chamber, and spin-tech pro streets dumped behind my 331. Needless to say, the neighborhood loves me...ha. The headers aren't that bad to get in...so long and you lift the motor side to side to squeeze them in. If your jackstands don't go up high enough (like mine did at the time), its going to be a bitch. I put mine in from the top. I had to yank the valve covers but not a big deal since the upper intake was already off. Also your EGR tube...unless you have it shut off in the ecu or tricked, I'd reconnect it. It isn't going to line up well. Mine was nowhere close. Cut it in the middle and reconnect with high temp silicone tubing and hose clamps. My local hardware store had some. I've seen guy re-make it the copper tubing. The bolts are a pain in the ass. I got 1 3/4" primaries so it might be easier if you got the small ones. I went to the parts store and bought a set of allen head bolts too. I used whatever bolt fit that spot the easiest. Finally, I'd ditch the copper gaskets. They won't blow out on ya but they don't totally seal. Go to Autozone and look in the highperformance aisle for Mr. Gasket Ultra Seals. Remember also, after you heat them up and cool them down once, RE TORQUE all the header bolts. I blew out 2 forgetting to do this. Periodically check them whenever you're under the hood after that.

ONE MORE THING. CHECK THE WIRES AROUND YOUR STARTER!. I fried a starter b/c it melted a wire and ground itself out on the header...not fun.
 

Steve-Oh

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I had mine done, didn't have the time to do them myself (at the time). From what I gathered, new motor mounts were a must at 75,000miles. You'll never get them on with crushed mounts (If thats the case). On the driver side, one of the tubes had to be bent slighty because it hit the steering shaft. Mine are also BBK, and the MAC headers are most likely bent a little differant. My buddy had a Two Top 95' and that k-member brace (like said earlier in another post) needs to be modified. And someone said before about going over speed bumps, so far I've only hit the headers maybe once or twice, just be careful going over SB's and you should be OK! So there are some things to keep in mind. You'll love the sound, and goodluck with the install!
 

Z28 This

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RIO5.0 said:
I have Mac LTs...The drivers side is gravy....Slides in from the top. The pass side I had to slide in from undermeath, I undid the motor mounts, using a 2X4 block under the oilpan I jacked it off the mounts, pushed the motor over to the drivers side and got the header in...Left the starter in place to...Pass side was more of a hassle but nothing to killer....Set aside an a/noon and youll be good to go...
You have the O2 extensions?

33177.jpg


damn thats a nasty setup
 

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