Lunar Shadow '93 Coupe (non-SN95)

[RedTwilight]

This is the non-SN95 thread of where my money and time have gone when not spent on my Cobra or RC and airbrushing hobbies.

Here's the build thread of Shadow. My 1993 5.0 Notch.
I purchased it used in 2001 to help offset the daily driver duties of ZERO my '96 Cobra.
The only mods done to it by previous owners were Flowmaster's welded into the factory cat back, an AC delete due to a locked up AC compressor, a K&N conical filter, and a Tremec 3550 with Hurst shift handle and knob.


A Little Paint



I wasn't long before the itch to modify it more kicked in and I purchased a set of BBK full length headers, BBK off road H-pipe and MAC dumped cat back system.


BBK Headers, Off Road H-pipe & MAC Dumped Cat Back





Shadow Cleaned Up





I drove it for a little while until the bug struck again.
This time it was an electric fan when the old fan clutch went out. Also a set of aluminum undrive pulleys, Professional Products polished 70mm throttle body and EGR plate and smog pump delete. Also at this time I further stripped the rest of the remaining AC system.
And it stayed in this state for several years until one day on my way to work I crossed oven an ice slicked bridge and sent it into a ditch. It rolled over onto the drivers side. After rolling it back level to my surprise only the driver side view mirror was broken. The driver's side was scratch free. But the passenger side had snapped the rear axle and bent in the lower rear portion of the rear quarter panel.


After that incident I took it off the road for a while until things were fixed and my paycheck could with stand the insurance of another vehicle again.
While it was taken off the road my dad decided to get back into drag racing. He bought a roller and started building it up. After a couple of races the crank in his car broke. So he had the idea to put some slicks on Shadow and run it to stay in the points until he could rebuild.


After this I put it back on the road. But the bug to race had bit me as well.
So this spurred the next round of mods.
This time a fiberglass 4" cowl hood, light weight Weld Rod Lite wheels, 275/60-15 Mickey Thompson drag radials, and 4.10:1 Ford Racing ring and pinion gears were added to get it ready for the drag strip. Also a set of home made sub frame connectors got welded in at this time.


New Cowl Hood and Front Bumper



New Wheels Weld Rod Lites



Some More Paint






I ran it like this all last season. For this year I only added a 70mm mass air meter from a '94 Gt. But I had other problems.
The very first run of the year during test and tune I snapped the left rear axle on the launch.


Broken Axle





So in went new Motive Gear 28 spline axles as replacements and new seals before the first points race of the year.


Broken Motive Gear 28 Spline Axle



This wasn't so good either as a bad lower control arm bushing had caused severe wheel hop. The seal was leaking on the right side axle tube. Upon further inspection the right rear lower control was also bent. It was bent approximately 5/8" up higher at the spring perch.


Bent Factory Lower Rear Control Arm



So on order went a pair of Team Z double adjustable rear lower control arms and 1/2" grade 8 bolts. At the same time I installed a 3 row aluminum radiator and new 180* thermostat.


Team Z Double Adjustable Lower Rear Control Arms





Things went well for one race. Then at the Horsepower Junkies Draggin Rights I broke another axle. Got that repaired and went to the track for the next points race.
Well, you guessed it! Broke a third axle.


Broken Motive Gear 28 Spline Axle





And that brings me to my current round of upgrades!


Thinking the housing could be bent and causing the breakage, a new housing was located.
Also on order went a set of housing braces from Wild Rides Race Cars, a pair of Strange 31 spline race axles with C-clip eliminators and 1/2-20 x 3" wheel studs, and a FRPP 31 spline Cobra differential.


New Housing

Strange 31 Spline Race Axles

Axle out yet again.



Bracing, Diff Girdle and 4.30:1 Gears going in.









After





So far my best time has been 8.49 at 81 mph in the 1/8th. It's still mostly stock. The valve covers haven't even been removed since the factory.

 

[RedTwilight]

During the first race of 2015 the gears decided that the force of a stick shift launch combined with the shock of drag radials were too much for them.




[URL="https://flic.kr/p/WE6H5M"]






So for the 2016 season back in went the 4.10:1's and I added a little cushion to the hit via the new Mickey Thompson ET Street R 26x10.5 bias ply DOT drag tires.











And success! The car lasted without breaking anything in the rear. The softer side wall was just what this manual equipped car needed.
Later in the year the factory rear upper control arms were tossed in favor of Baseline Outlaw uca's. But i have yet to have enough runs on them to see the difference.






So far my best time slip has been 8.49 at 81 mph in the 1/8th.

With the bias ply tires it has been more consistent as well.
It's still mostly stock with the aforementioned modifications. The valve covers haven't even been removed since the factory.

Consistency right there!







After the race season was over; I swapped out the drag wheel and tire combo for a new set for street duty.
The rear are 17x10 black with machined lip Pony R's wrapped in Sumitomo HTR-Z 315/35-17's. The front are the factory Pony wheels that I machined the lip and sprayed to match the rears.








[URL="https://flic.kr/p/WAdp3q"]

 

[RedTwilight]

Shortly before Christmas I was involved in a slight fender bender when someone decided to unexpectedly merge into my lane as my side was slowing for an accident in their lane.


Well needless to say some body damaged occurred in the form of broken headlights, a bent fender, a torn and gouged front bumper cover, and my fiberglass hood slightly busted.










I have a few bumper covers lying around and a set of clear headlights. So I placed an order for a new passenger fender and a Harwood 4" cowl hood.


Yes... Yes... I know I don't need a 4" cowl... but I like the way it looks and it's waayyyy lighter than going back to the factory steel hood.


I pulled Shadow into the shop to start replacing the body panels as well as a large order of parts. I'm hoping to get everything ready for the Easter Race at Roxboro Motorsports Park.


This parts list soon to be done includes:


Pro 5.0 Shifter for the Tremec 3550
Steeda Tri-ax shifter handle*
Billet pistol grip shift knob
FRPP Aluminum driveshaft
Stifflers transmission crossmember.
Energy Suspension poly motor and trans mounts
Prothane poly offset rack bushings


Team Z k-member kit with control arms and coilover kit
Strange 10 way adjustable front struts
Team Z castor camber plates












Here I have gotten the body panels removed. I hammered down the top front of the passenger side core support that was bent in the accident. The aluminum driveshaft, Stifflers trans cross member, and poly trans mount have been installed.

The Team Z K-member, control arms, coil over kit and struts.










Got the Team Z and Strange stuff installed. It's all really nice stuff. I did have a few things fighting me such as ball joints and tie rods not wanting to break free to having to remove the entire brake rotor just to pull the spindle off the ball joint.


The Team Z K member is a nice piece but next time I think I'm going with Racecraft. Team Z offsets the steering rack towards the passenger side by 3/8". THey said it's for header clearance. But in my case with the BBK headers it had the opposite effect. So out came the torch and BFH to "clearance" the header tubes for the MM steering shaft.



[URL="https://flic.kr/p/Wzui33"]





Cobra grill insert and new headlights







Finally got it all together and the body panels bolted on. Dropped it down to see what it looked like before I set the ride height. Nice and low.









Initial ride height is set in front and a close enough alignment done until I can get it professionally aligned. I may raise it up another 1/2" - 1" in front depending on how the rear suspension sits when I change the rear springs.
I did make it to the track for the Easter Race at Roxboro. But I didn't run or do any testing yet. So no numbers on the new combination yet.

 

[RedTwilight]

Ordered a pair of Team Z stock location rear drag springs and some new SVE spring isolators for the rear. Now the only left to do on the entire suspension is the rear shocks. Eventually I might step up to a rear coil over setup with anti-roll bar. But for now everything is stock location setup.

I got the Team Z rear drag springs and SVE isolaters installed. Now things have settled a bit. Time to re-check the pinion angle, check the instant center, and hit the track to see if the new suspension will make a difference.







I might end up removing the iso's depending on how everything goes at the track.



EDIT:
Car set up too high in the rear with the poly Isolators and threw off the instant center.
It didn't want to hook at all during testing one day at Piedmont.
So off came the iso's, dropping the rear down about 3/4" more. I also measured and plotted the chassis to find out where my instant center now stands. I also still need to move the axle side mounting point of the uppers to a different hole for a more optimum instant center.

 

[RedTwilight]

Since the local drag strip (Roxboro Motorsports Park) has been closed due to some situation with the owners, I have put the street shoes back on for now.


While at it I added a little bling to the center caps.













I have also been getting ready for MustangWeek!


The old previous wiring on the electric fan burned up at a splice joint. It was also straight wired to a switched source.
So I've removed the old wiring and I've added a relay and a switch. I also upped the power wires for the fan from 12awg to 10awg.




I have also got a new Ford pinion seal to replace the leaky one. Then a good cleaning to the car.
The idea has crossed my mind to spray the car in one solid color of Rust-O-Leum peel coat. Just something temporary until regular paint and body work can be done.

 

[RedTwilight]

Made a simple switch plate to cover the hole where the radio head unit used to be. At the moment I only have the one electric fan switch in. But I have laid out room for 3 more switches and a couple gauges.

 

[RedTwilight]

I have finally gotten around to pulling the console and installing the Pro 5.0 shifter with Steeda handle and billet pistol grip knob.
I've got a new inner shifter boot on the way to replace the original that was missing altogether.






Also ordered some LED bulbs for the gauge cluster. Just a couple more items marked off the list before MustangWeek.

 

[96blak54]

You lose grip on that shifter....nothing will help you...lol. Looks great!

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

 

[RedTwilight]

While the console was apart, I took the opportunity to fix the ash tray door. The hinge pins had broken so I just drilled some hole and replaced them with a couple of screws.


Voila! No more floppy ash tray door!

 

[RedTwilight]

While I had the console out, I ended up doing quite a bit of cleaning and detailing to the interior before MustangWeek 2017.





Don't you just love how easily the Fox coupe rear seats can be removed?



Cleaned the upholstery. Here is a comparison. The right side has been cleaned and allowed to dry.



All cleaned and back in.



I also pulled the gauge cluster to replace the stock bulbs with LEDs.









Got a new arm rest pad from Fox Mustang Restoration. I was missing the pad altogether and the bottom plastic piece that it attaches to was broken. Got both replaced and ready to go back in the car.



All cleaned and back together!



I also installed new door armrest pads, new door handle bezels, and new floor mats.



Last minute washing, painting of the wiper arms, and new outer window belt trim before leaving for the greatest week of the year!
MustangWeek 2017 here we come.

 

[stingracer]

Interior is looking great!!

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

 

[RedTwilight]

I've been having an issue with a part throttle hesitation and also an issue with it starting. I have thinking that it's the fuel pump that is the culprit.
But just to eliminate a few things that I already had on hand, I went ahead and did a mini tune up. I went with a new Motorcraft fuel Filter, Motorcraft copper spark plugs, FRPP 9mm ignition wires and a new Screamin' Demon ignition coil.



This didn't alleviate the issue but it did eliminate possibilities that needed changing anyway.
I will borrow a gauge and test to verify the fuel pressure is correct or not.
But in the event that it is the pump, I placed an order for some new fuel system pieces.
Those ordered are:
Walbro 190lph in tank fuel pump
Aeromotive adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator
BBK fuel rails
some stainless braided fuel lines and fittings
Ford Racing 24lb injectors
and a liquid filled fuel pressure gauge


I'm still trying to figure out if I want to go with the C&L 76mm MAF with intake tube or an 80mm Pro-M MAF. Both of course will be calibrated for the 24lb injectors.


Box-O-Fuel system parts.


mmm... YEP! Fuel pressure is a little bit on the low side.






And since this thread needs an engine pic, voila...

 

[RedTwilight]

Got the old fuel pump out and replaced with the new Walbro 190lph pump.





Quite a size difference between the two.





The hesitating and stumbling problem has now been taking care of. It runs soooo much better.

 

[Tony]

Got the old fuel pump out and replaced with the new Walbro 190lph pump.





Quite a size difference between the two.





The hesitating and stumbling problem has now been taking care of. It runs soooo much better.

Tht's awesome that you figured it out. I was having a hell of a time trying to figure out why mine wouldn't start for a couple weeks...turned out to be a corroded ground lol. Drove me fn nuts.

 

[RedTwilight]

Tht's awesome that you figured it out. I was having a hell of a time trying to figure out why mine wouldn't start for a couple weeks...turned out to be a corroded ground lol. Drove me fn nuts.

The electrical problems always seem to be the worst to figure out. But thank goodness mine was easy. I pretty much knew exactly what the problem was as soon as it started.

 

[RedTwilight]

Started collecting parts for a 5 lug swap. I still have quite a few pieces to get.
I've had the Cobra calipers and brackets for a few years now. I have also gotten spindles from a '94-'95 and the rear brackets, dust shields and rotors. I also have a pair of polished 17x10 '03 Cobra wheels for the rear.




I still have the big ticket items such as rear axles, brake booster / master cylinder, brake lines, proportioning valve, and line lock to go. Also will still need to get a set of wheels for the track and a pair of front wheels for the street.
I doubt I'll have it all by Mustang Week this year; but I'll try. If not by this time next year.

 

[RedTwilight]

I had a little bit of trouble with the '93 cranking, or lack there of. It would spin over no problem but never fire. After checking through all the possible culprits including replacing a fuse link, the problem has been narrowed down.
It is getting spark no problem, and it has fuel pressure up to the rails. But when I pull a plug they are completely dry. Also the pump stays continuously running instead of priming then shutting off.
So this has lead me to the conclusion that the ECU has is gone. I'll pull it and visually check to see if I can find anything wrong first that I could possibly repair before getting a new one.

I'm also going to swap out the TPS first just in case as I could not get it adjusted anywhere near the proper voltage. But I'm 95% certain it's the computer.


Also while it's in the shop I will replace the clutch so it will be broken in before race season starts back up at the local track.
The clutch itself is will be an under warranty replacement from Advance Auto. The current one has held up really well these last few years.


To compliment the new clutch while everything is out will be a new Ram aluminum flywheel, Maximum Motorpsorts clutch cable, and a new rear main seal.






I also got the last piece needed to swap to the 24lb injectors.
Pro-M 80mm maf with filter.

 

[driftin]

Got the old fuel pump out and replaced with the new Walbro 190lph pump.





Quite a size difference between the two.





The hesitating and stumbling problem has now been taking care of. It runs soooo much better.

Awesome project man! We will be looking at another 93 Coupe soon right after we finished installing the new bumber and blue ox towing on the current truck project. The old pump been acting up, we will take a look at the Walbro pump.

 

[RedTwilight]

Pulled the transmission, old clutch, and flywheel on my day off in preparation for the new clutch and aluminum flywheel. Also a new rear main seal to replace the leaky one.





Hopefully when I'm off this Friday I can get it all back in and back on the ground.




And to figure out the no start issue I pulled the A3M EEC and opened it up.





I found 2 corroded capacitors. One of which was broken and and the other was nearly broken. So now to locate some new capacitors and try to repair it. I'm not out anything if it doesn't work as I can still use it for the core charge on a new replacement.

 

[RedTwilight]

Awesome project man! We will be looking at another 93 Coupe soon right after we finished installing the new bumber and blue ox towing on the current truck project. The old pump been acting up, we will take a look at the Walbro pump.

Thanks! Good luck on the search.
The Walbro pump has been great so far, and you can't beat the price at less than $100 for a 190lph.