MAF, CAI, TB, Injector combo help

Discussion in '94-95 5.0 - Specific' started by B.mad, May 3, 2014.

  1. B.mad

    B.mad Well-Known Member Preferred Vendor

    Messages:
    1,996
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2014
    Location:
    SoCal
    Ok so, i have my 94 gt and im starting to upgrade some stuff on it. Right now I have magnapack catback, BBK O/R H-Pipe, and im going to pair it up with some BBK shorty headers (not the equals). And i just bought the NTK O2 sensors (check engine light code thing said it was running lean on top end). And today i cleaned out the IAC and TB, and it didnt do much still runs the same. So also now i am thinking of getting NGK G-power platinums with taylor spiro plug wires (8 MM), 70MM BBK TB, BBK CAI, BBK 76 MM MAF made for their CAI and 19LB injectors, and also the accel 19lbs, and the BAMA 4 bank eliminator tuner. Ok so now the bigggggggest question here, is my combo compliant with one another. or what would be better? This is my DD, so i want the best reliability/performance i can get.
     
  2. OnyxCobra

    OnyxCobra Legend

    Messages:
    14,794
    Likes Received:
    233
    Joined:
    Apr 8, 2006
    Location:
    Rochester, NY
    For now since you don't really anything larger why not just keep the stock MAF and injectors?
     
  3. B.mad

    B.mad Well-Known Member Preferred Vendor

    Messages:
    1,996
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2014
    Location:
    SoCal
    well, i wouldnt mind to, but i dont know what the condition of the injectors are, so might as well replace them. Its the same stock LBS, but more "performance". and same with the MAF since i am changing it all out, and ive had a nissan altima that had a bad MAF, and i dont know if these cars like to go out at about 200k but i wouldnt mind changing them.
     
  4. RichV

    RichV Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,227
    Likes Received:
    247
    Joined:
    May 6, 2012
    Location:
    CO
    Change them if bad, but honestly you won't see any performance increase. The 5.0 needs heads, cam, intake long before the mods you are asking about.
     
  5. CC'S95GT

    CC'S95GT Legend

    Messages:
    10,738
    Likes Received:
    172
    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2008
    Location:
    Hampton ,Ga.
    for the biggest seat of the pants feel, GO GEARS. 3:73 or 4:10.
    If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
    Stay away from platimium plugs. 5.0's don't care for them.
    Get FRPP 9mm wires.
    Bump the timing to 12*-14* or until it starts pinging on accelleration then back it off a bit. To get 14* you might need to go to a higher octane rating.
     
  6. Mikestang95

    Mikestang95 New Member

    Messages:
    39
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Dec 9, 2013
    Location:
    IL/WI border
    +1 and for under $50 compared to what the others cost it's a no brainer.
     
  7. Michael Plummer

    Michael Plummer Active Member

    Messages:
    434
    Likes Received:
    19
    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2007
    Location:
    Brockton, MA
    Sounds like the performance bug has hit. After your header swap is complete your exhaust system will be done for now (depending on future HP level). My advice before proceeding, how much HP do you want with your current short block? If you can answer that question, then you'll be ahead of the game. IMHO, you don't need any of that stuff you mentioned above (spark plug wires, spark plugs, etc.). I think gears would be a nice upgrade at this point, suspension components, or upgraded brakes would be more wiser choices. If you decide you want more HP, lets say 400rwhp is your goal, buy parts that are going to get you there. Buying another set of 19lbs injectors is a waste of money especially if you don't need it.

    Good luck with your future mods.
    Michael Plummer
     
  8. B.mad

    B.mad Well-Known Member Preferred Vendor

    Messages:
    1,996
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2014
    Location:
    SoCal
    ya the mod bug hit haha. But since its my DD i dont want to do heavy mods on it. Just wanted to do what i mentioned for better airflow. I think about 270 is what ill get with all the parts. The reason why i am considering changing them is because at some point i am going to have to change it, and i just wanted to know if i am pairing them up right. Maybe later on when im done with school and on to my career, i will do more performance orientated parts and get a different DD, but for now its that :p. I have a different 5.0 that i am going to make into a Road Racer.
     
  9. Michael Plummer

    Michael Plummer Active Member

    Messages:
    434
    Likes Received:
    19
    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2007
    Location:
    Brockton, MA
    Q) So also now i am thinking of getting NGK G-power platinums with taylor spiro plug wires (8 MM),
    A) Was mentioned above but Windsor based engines like yours tend to do better with copper spark plugs. Taylor spark plug wires are nothing special. If you really want a better spark plug wire, I would buy either Magnecor: http://www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/main.htm or Firecore50: http://www.firecore50.com/. But for your needs a set of Ford Racing Spark plug wires will do just fine.

    Q) 70MM BBK TB, BBK CAI, BBK 76 MM MAF made for their CAI and 19LB injectors, and also the accel 19lbs,
    A) 65, 70, 75mm throttle body on a stock intake? The performance increase with your current associated parts (camshaft, heads and intake) will be very small. A larger MAF, same as above. Cold Air Induction seems to work better on positive displacement blower setups than N/A ones. As long as you know the combination of parts you have, will yield small HP results, go ahead mod away.

    Q) and the BAMA 4 bank eliminator tuner.
    A) Not familiar with this product but I believe this is the driving force behind you wanting to modify your setup. Great reviews for many of it's users. If you feel comfortable with what you're reading go ahead, and make the purchase along with the parts you mentioned above. Would love to see a before and after dyno results.

    Q) Ok so now the bigggggggest question here, is my combo compliant with one another. or what would be better? This is my DD, so i want the best reliability/performance i can get.
    A) Best reliability would be to keep it stock but your performance would suffer. Rear-end gears, and better shocks and struts are still my choices. Bottom line, you can solicit all the information you want but in the end it's your money, and your car.

    Good luck with your mods.
    Michael Plummer
     
  10. the5.ohh

    the5.ohh Legend

    Messages:
    9,555
    Likes Received:
    108
    Joined:
    Oct 15, 2012
    Location:
    Shaolin, NY
    4.10s, Ford racing 9mm wires, motorcraft plugs or autolite iridiums (run really well for me), headers, J&M rear lower control arms, new shocks and struts, and you'll be happy.. for now.
     
  11. B.mad

    B.mad Well-Known Member Preferred Vendor

    Messages:
    1,996
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2014
    Location:
    SoCal
    I was looking at the BBK shorty's. Im not really worried about the power, i want the sound. I am in cali so LT's are out of the question. Right now i have magnapack's with BBK O/R H-Pipe. What would be better unequal shortys, or equals?
     
  12. the5.ohh

    the5.ohh Legend

    Messages:
    9,555
    Likes Received:
    108
    Joined:
    Oct 15, 2012
    Location:
    Shaolin, NY
    Unequals and equals don't give much difference power wise, but I know with equals changing the plugs is somewhat annoying, unequals is easier
     
  13. B.mad

    B.mad Well-Known Member Preferred Vendor

    Messages:
    1,996
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2014
    Location:
    SoCal
    then unequals it is!. Also I was looking at the BBK underdrive pulley. Supposely its suppose to free up some HP and improve MPG. I dont see how a pulley can do that? is it true? is it worth getting? its only like $130 so it isnt expensive
     
  14. Mikestang95

    Mikestang95 New Member

    Messages:
    39
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Dec 9, 2013
    Location:
    IL/WI border
    Some people like them others say they aren't worth it. The smaller crank pulley takes less effort to spin on the underdrive set therefore the motor has less drag and is allowed to rev faster (I think I explained that right, at least in my head it sounded good)

    You may free up a couple extra horses but nothing really noticeable, although some people will tell you they notice the car does rev quicker/smoother therefore it does give you that feeling of the advertised 10-15 horsepower.

    I use them because they were on the car when I got it, but I don't think I would buy them if they weren't. Just my $.02
     
  15. B.mad

    B.mad Well-Known Member Preferred Vendor

    Messages:
    1,996
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2014
    Location:
    SoCal

    im not really expanding like "OMG SO MUCH MORE POWER", but i do expect them to have a better response. I just didnt understand how they worked. And since one of my pulley is squeaking, might as well replace them all.
     
  16. toyman

    toyman Active Member

    Messages:
    874
    Likes Received:
    9
    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2008

    The pulley is not likely to be squeaking but rather the shaft bearing on whatever the part is. UDs start with a smaller diameter crank pulley and slightly larger accessory pulleys (usually the alternator and wp pulleys) so as to let them run at or close to their original speed.
     
  17. B.mad

    B.mad Well-Known Member Preferred Vendor

    Messages:
    1,996
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2014
    Location:
    SoCal
    ahhh, so the UDs, which i assume means Underdrive pulleys, wont solve my squeaking problem right?
     
  18. Mikestang95

    Mikestang95 New Member

    Messages:
    39
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Dec 9, 2013
    Location:
    IL/WI border
    Nope, usually the squeaky ones are the idler pulley and the tensioner pulley which don't come in the set.

    If you can narrow it down to where its coming from just replace that part
     
  19. B.mad

    B.mad Well-Known Member Preferred Vendor

    Messages:
    1,996
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2014
    Location:
    SoCal
    ok what exactly am i looking for? i was told you can just turn the pulleys and see how they feel, but i dont know how they are suppose to feel. I am 90% sure its coming from a pulley on the passenger side of the motor.
     
  20. toyman

    toyman Active Member

    Messages:
    874
    Likes Received:
    9
    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2008
    With the exception of the idler and tension pulleys the other pulleys are fastened to the the part (alternator, crank, water pump and power steering). When you remove the belt and rotate the pulleys you will easily identify the source. A good pulley will spin freely whereas a bad one will feel tight, rough or sloppy when you spin it. The squealing usually comes from a pulley where the shaft bearing has seized and the belt is being dragged over the pulley.