Master cylinder and booster and stuff. I need help.

[g36 monkey]

Alright so I picked up the old beast the other day, and the brake booster is a lot more rusty than I like, so I was like "hmm, I should do something about that."

Well, I always thought it would be cool to have one that's like, low profile, but of course I can't find anything like that.

For those who don't know, the V6 uses the same setup as a 94/95 5.0

My questions are as follows:

If you were me what would you do?

Just get a replacement booster and a cobra master cylinder. If I get the cobra master, do I need to get a 94/95 cobra MC or will the master from an 03 cobra have the same fitting as the big vacuum booster?

Switch to hydroboost. If so, I need to know how.

I am not sure which would be better, and what all I would need.

I know just looking at parts from a part store, it's obviously much cheaper to go with a vacuum booster, however if there are supreme advantages to the hydroboost setup, I want to know about them.


Annnnnnd go!

 

[96blak54]

Just replace whats there

 

[mcglsr2]

Hydroboost is smaller I believe than the 95/95 booster. But then you have plumbing to deal with.

If you decide to stay with the 95/95 booster, I just recently swapped in a 94/95 Cobra MC. Fit was perfect. I had to also purchase the Maximum Motorsports master cylinder to proportioning valve lines as they are different for the Cobra than the "normal" GT/V6 ones.

As to which you want, that's up to you. Do you feel like a project? For me personally, I don't think hydroboost is worth it, and I don't really mind the size of the 95/95 booster. I feel like it would be a lot of work for not a lot of gain. So I would personally stick a Cobra M/C on there (assuming you have Cobra brakes) and call it a day. But that's just me

 

[rz5.0]

Why not just clean up the old brake booster

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[95opal]

If you don't go hydro drop a 93 cobra booster in...... its smaller

 

[ttocs]

I have a new cobra master I got before I upgraded to the baer's I can sell you for less. Pm me if your interested.

 

[mcglsr2]

If you are keeping the booster, you probably want the larger one as that will help provide more line pressure - you won't have to work quite as hard. Going to a smaller vacuum booster means the booster is doing a little less for you. In practice, this may not matter. I have no experience with the smaller 93 boosters. Just with how boosters work in general. For what it's worth, this is why hydroboosts can be so small - you are using hydraulic pressure to provide the assist, so the larger size necessary for vacuum is not required there. One way to think about it, a vacuum booster size is typically based on size/weight of the car.

if under hood space is at a premium because it's contacting valve covers or exhaust or something. If you have the space and performance is a concern, consider keeping the 94/95 - or experiment with the 93 and let us know the difference, if any at all.

 

[g36 monkey]

After reading this, I am definitely leaning towards stock booster and 95 cobra lines.
[MENTION=9209]ReplicaR[/MENTION] can you weigh in? I know you have done said swap.

 

[RichV]

I've done this on my 94 as well.

My setup: Stock booster, Cobra MC, MM MC line conversion, ABS lines in place with delete block, all 5 soft lines braided, Cobra rear brake setup, 13" front with Wilwood 4 pot calipers. Stopping is like throwing an anchor out the window but well balanced under threshold braking.

I would just keep the stock gear whether you paint or buy new. Just make sure you match everything well. I have a pair of 99-04 11" front brakes for my 95 which is more than enough on the street, not planning on modifying anything else. Yet anyway.

 

[g36 monkey]

I have cobras up front, will have cobras in the rear once the rear end is done. No ABS and no traction control so that should all be fine. And I will be upgrading to the stainless lines soon

 

[mcglsr2]

I've done this on my 94 as well.

My setup: Stock booster, Cobra MC, MM MC line conversion, ABS lines in place with delete block, all 5 soft lines braided, Cobra rear brake setup, 13" front with Wilwood 4 pot calipers. Stopping is like throwing an anchor out the window but well balanced under threshold braking.

This is my setup as well, with the exceptions of I still have ABS at this point and have the Cobra calipers upfront instead of Wilwoods.

 

[evilcw311]

I'm planning on doing something similar to what rich said minus the abs delete block. We are going to redo my front lines to eliminate the abs.


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[ReplicaR]

After reading this, I am definitely leaning towards stock booster and 95 cobra lines.
ReplicaR can you weigh in? I know you have done said swap.

Which brakes do you have? I would say, try to avoid going hydraboost. I have done the swap only out of necessity, my motor was not making enough vacuum anymore for brakes to work effectively as they should. With hydraboost came several issues:

1. Awful brake pedal feel. Just like the name implies, it feels like you are stepping on a very firm oil filled damper. There is no feeling at all in the brakes, it's completely numb. There is a reason why ford is no longer running it since 2005 in mustangs.
2. Extra load on the pump. You will be asking the power steering pump to do more than it ever was supposed to. It may not seem like a lot, but it adds up, and results in higher power steering fluid temps.
3. Noise in the cabin. If your power steering pump makes any noise at all, it will be transferred into the cabin via hydraboost unit. There is a constant annoying whine in the car now.
4. Idle quality. I'm not sure, but I think there is something different in the programming of ECU for hydraboost cars. They have to account for extra load on the motor at idle due to brake and steering utilization at the same time. I know that 94-95s don't have those parameters, which makes it that much easier to stall while moving the car around at slow speeds. Someone told me that it could be the IAC that's more sensitive on the 96+ V8 cars, but I find that hard to believe, because it's just hardware with no brain of it's own. How could it possibly respond quicker to steering inputs, if the ECU tells it nothing new.

Long story short, OEM booster, 94-95 Cobra MC, MM Cobra MC swap hard lines. The rest is up to you.

 

[g36 monkey]

Excellent. I really appreciate all the information here guys. Helped me decide.

I will do a new booster (or possibly just inspect my old one, I just feel like it might be ready to rust all the way through), and the cobra master with the new lines.

And to answer the question, I have cobra (well, mach 1) brakes up front. I may eventually go bigger but for now that is what I have.

 

[rz5.0]

I have the booster cobra mc and the hardlines. If you need them.. Shoot me an offer. I'll be going to florida for the 4th too.

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[g36 monkey]

PM'd

 

[Thomas_W]

Pay for a manual rack, MM steering shaft and manual brake conversion and i'll send you ERrrrthing for a hydroboost swap. Lol

Wasnt that easy! Lol

 

[g36 monkey]

Called MM today, and we are trying to figure out what I can do. As it turns out, I don't think people have tried to do this with the V6. I am not sure what I need to get, all three master cylinders are different from 95 cobra, to 95 GT to 2000 Mustang V6. The 03 cobra and the V6 both have a 1" bore though. Not sure if that means I can just use an 03 master. I am so confused. I just want to buy stuff and put it on and be lazy!

 

[95opal]

Called MM today, and we are trying to figure out what I can do. As it turns out, I don't think people have tried to do this with the V6. I am not sure what I need to get, all three master cylinders are different from 95 cobra, to 95 GT to 2000 Mustang V6. The 03 cobra and the V6 both have a 1" bore though. Not sure if that means I can just use an 03 master. I am so confused. I just want to buy stuff and put it on and be lazy!

You need to base your mc decision on what brakes ypur running not what year or motor is in the car. I see you said cobra brakes but you also need to know what year cobra brakes as they are different. Pm me if you need any more info