I was abusing my car learning drifting. It started smoking on the way home while running coming from the exhaust pipe and more heavily from inside the engine, it also sounded riggity I would say. I drove it home while it was smoking and it stalled when I got there sounded like something locked or clanked. When I tried starting it back up it barely started and I had to keep throttling to keep it on, and air is also only coming out of one tail pipe. It also sounds like not even half of the engine is running. Any ideas what I broke I feel like something major
Maybe blown motor
- Thread starter DonTheMan
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ttocs
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It is hard to tell as it could be a number of things, is the check engine light on? If so I would start there to see what it says. You will need an obd1 reader to do this. There is an obd2 harness in the console but it is not functional, they were expecting to make the switch so they installed it. If you do a search on youtube you can find a video that will show you how to read the codes using just a papaerclip.
07GtS197
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What color was the smoke? I’m thinking a blown head gasket. Cylinder 8 gets hot from lack of coolant flow.
07GtS197
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I’ve never heard of that but I could be mistaken. I’m willing to bet some of the water boiled off causing it to overheat.
Snorky
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What does your oil look like? Pull the dipstick and look, or drain the coolant and inspect. What does your coolant look like? When the car is in neutral with the spark plugs out, Can you crank the engine over by hand? Do a block pressure test. A leak down test.
Could be a few things. 1. Blown head gasket. 2. Depending on how hard and long you were flogging on it, your bearings might have been eaten.
Could be a few things. 1. Blown head gasket. 2. Depending on how hard and long you were flogging on it, your bearings might have been eaten.
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07GtS197
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Diagnose it before throwing parts at it.
07GtS197
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Something must be wrong with your compression tester. If they were really at 0, it wouldn’t run worth a damn.
The factory oil pan is not set up for the radial G forces produced by hard driving, hard cornering, or rapid direction changes. An extra capacity oil pan is a must in hard corner and rapid direction changes. With that said, if your car has a stock oil pan, its a good bet the bearings ran dry a few times. And with that said....in a modular engine, the 1st location to show signs of oil starvation is the camshaft journals. This is a sure fire check when scouting a good salvageable engine. Pulling a few cam journal caps on each head will reveal if the engine is worth buying. However, ive seen cam journals that have went dry, revealing damage but the engine still running strong.
The 1st location of over heating is #4 and #8 cylinders. These cylinders are prone to overheat in 5.4l under heavy loads and signs of headgasket seepage is revealed by oil and water between the block and head. You might be able to get under the car and inspect those areas for water/oil. Overheating changes the headbolts ability to maintain their designed clamping force. The bolts are stretch when installed. Adding heat beyond design causes them to fail, in turn failing headgaskets.
Pull the spark plug wire out and inspect for water on the wire boot. Any water in the sparkplug hole will cause a modular all kinds of rabbit hole problems. If no water in hole, pull all the plugs out and perform a compression test while the engine is warm
The 1st location of over heating is #4 and #8 cylinders. These cylinders are prone to overheat in 5.4l under heavy loads and signs of headgasket seepage is revealed by oil and water between the block and head. You might be able to get under the car and inspect those areas for water/oil. Overheating changes the headbolts ability to maintain their designed clamping force. The bolts are stretch when installed. Adding heat beyond design causes them to fail, in turn failing headgaskets.
Pull the spark plug wire out and inspect for water on the wire boot. Any water in the sparkplug hole will cause a modular all kinds of rabbit hole problems. If no water in hole, pull all the plugs out and perform a compression test while the engine is warm
Redid compression test they all came back at about 30. I got suggested to redo timing I checked it all right bank was a few teeth off left was about one off. Fixed it and put everything back together I tried to start it now it just clanks and the crank only spins about 1/8 a turn so im having trouble redoing the timing again.
Snorky
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30 psi compression is next to no compression. It sounds like you may have timed it wrong and smashed all the valves. Pull the followers, do a leak down test. The followers out will make the valves naturally close. If you see one of the valves not in line with the others/a spring compressed. Bent or stuck valve. Also the leak down test will let you know if it's coming from exhaust valves. Intake valves, rings, coolant system.
Snorky
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Followers are what sits on the valve stem and hydraulic lifter.. that have a roller under each cam lobe.
What made you think your timing was off to begin with?
Snorky
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