Megasquirt SN95 with MS3 MS3X

Discussion in 'Tech Articles, How-To's & Write Ups' started by venom, Jun 6, 2015.

  1. venom

    venom Active Member

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    I am starting this thread separate from my build post as this process alone is very involved. I will be updating it with diagrams and other useful info like screen shots for setting up Tuner Studio. One important note is that I do not take responsibility for anyone ruining their car while following this guide. This guide is what has worked for my particular setup not yours. You need to read the MegaManual and Tuner Studio manual as well as DIYautotune.com info pages. It is important that you know your setup plus the stock setup inside and out. You also need to seek help from the Megasquirt Forums as they are making money selling you this and it benefits them to get you up and running as oppose to myself that I do it to help the community. I am not here to tune your car or look at MSQ files to help you tune your car. I am no expert but eager to learn as you may be if you are following this thread. I am simply gathering all the info that I spent months looking at and posting it here specific for SN95s 96-98. I will probably be more active on this thread than my build as I get deeper into tuning. You may follow the build here http://www.sn95forums.com/showthread.php?33782-Venom-s-Build-Thread.


    Once I get a new wiring diagram drawn up that does not include my custom stuff I will post and we may start from there.
     
  2. lwarrior1016

    lwarrior1016 Moderator Staff SN95 Supporter

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    Awesome, I'm subscribed to this one for sure. Thanks in advance for the effort you are putting into this.
     
  3. venom

    venom Active Member

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    I have 3 wiring diagrams below. Most important to note is that I deleted my relay/fuse setup. I modified the wiring schematic to show a few relays and fuses so you get a basic idea. Be sure to checkout the MS setup in the Mega Manual for other ideas. I will post up stock wiring schematics as soon as I have a chance. If anyone has ideas or is doing something different please post them up so we can see what you are doing. If you find any mistakes let me know. I you are going to run another setup, send me info and I can draw up a schematic.

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  4. lwarrior1016

    lwarrior1016 Moderator Staff SN95 Supporter

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    Thanks a bunch for posting that up man. I have looked these drawings over all day today and they have been extremely helpful. One question though, I see you are running the iac off the main board, what made you do that vs running it on the ms3x card?
     
  5. Royal96

    Royal96 Active Member

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    Ill be following this. I've really been interested in learning to tune with a MS set up. I just love home brew stuff, and dont like the idea of dragging the car to a tuner every time I make a change.
     
  6. venom

    venom Active Member

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    No particular reason, you can use Fidle on MS or idle on MS3x.
     
  7. venom

    venom Active Member

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  8. 96blak54

    96blak54 Legend

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    Sounds awesome!
     
  9. kb1982

    kb1982 Active Member

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    Im running the MSpNp and it uses the microsquirt module with batchfire and it is setup on fidle. Wished I would have sprung for the MS3 but was intimidated a little by the wiring. Now I want a stock wiring harness to groom through what all i dont need.
     
  10. venom

    venom Active Member

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    I was feeling the same and did not want to make things more complicated. In the end it was best to start fresh and bypass all the stock wiring and tuck it away. Makes working on the engine a lot easier. I think up next for me is to get rid of the factory dash and install an LCD as I find myself looking at the laptop more than gauge cluster for data.
     
  11. ttocs

    ttocs Legend

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    for some reason I thought the wiring was much harder. The schematic makes it look perty simple really.... Good post thank you.
     
  12. lwarrior1016

    lwarrior1016 Moderator Staff SN95 Supporter

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    Im going through the install right now and the schematics make it look easy, but seeing the 2 bundles of wires that need to be attached to something is really overwhelming lol. Im still in the process of doing mine so I don't even know if I did it right!
     
  13. ttocs

    ttocs Legend

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    don't let the big picture scare you off. I had to deal with the same thing with alarm/remote start installs as they were a box with 20-30 wires coming out of it I would attack this the same way. If you have anywhere from 2 wires to a group of wires going to the same place its really easy to get them in a group, stick the ends of the wires in your drill and then let the drill wrap all the wires together.
    [video=youtube;uTJhrTTl-EE]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uTJhrTTl-EE[/video]
     
  14. venom

    venom Active Member

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    Separate by groups based on the location, front driver, passenger side etc. the only thing I am trying to work out still is CCRM for fan output.

    Yesterday my fan gave out. When I looked at factory plug it was burnt as well as motor. I got another motor from Autozone . Used the new pigtail I had already. It's working again. One thing I corrected which I will have to update diagram is the low fan setup. Since I have PCM not doing anything it trips CCRM into fail safe Mode which keeps low fan on as soon as ignition is on. I set up the MS opposite to bypass this issue, on for fan off(ground) and off for fan on (ground removed). I went ahead and corrected this by installing a relay that gives ground to the low fan when ignition is on 87a, when MS trigger wire activates relay it removes ground which turns on fan. I could just wire up some relays but want to keep it as it serves a function for the AC and would like to have it working in the future.

    One thing I noticed is that when I activate the low fan and then the high fan at the same time it does not spin as fast. If I just activate the high only it spins faster. Could it be the new motor I just got or is it that you can not apply power simultaneous to both low and high. It may explain why motor burnt up. Does the CCRM apply pwr to both high and low at the same time or not? I wish I could just turn off low at a given temp then turn on high after that but don't see how you could as of yet. Iwarrior if you have fan out can you verify this? Does applying power to high and low slow fan compared to if you just power high. Would be good to see how CCRM distributes power when high fan comes on.
     
  15. ttocs

    ttocs Legend

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    when you connected to the fan did you go by wire color or by the pin-out on the computer harness? I ask because its not uncommon for the wire colors to be off, or for the indicators on the wires to have worn off of them.
     
  16. venom

    venom Active Member

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    I did both on most connections. The CCRM was wired 1 foot from it to verify that wire was coming from it. Today I double checked and it was hooked up correct. I can simply wire in 2 relays but it will be interesting to see if stock sends power to both or is it one fan speed at a time. I found this and it looks like low fan has a lot going on lol.

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  17. lwarrior1016

    lwarrior1016 Moderator Staff SN95 Supporter

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    98% of my wiring is already hooked up. Im trying to start it on monday. I think i have my fans wired the same as you. I repurposed the nitrous outputs from the 3x card and used those as my fan control. I wired them to my ccrm on pin 14 and 17. I will be back at my car monday morning so I will verify how the ccrm functions in relation to fan speeds.



    I do have have a couple separate question for you [MENTION=9290]venom[/MENTION]. Right now I getting everything in my ms set up for start up. A lot of the settings I have no clue what they mean. One thing is the crank trigger. Is our crank trigger set to rising edge or falling edge? Our engines are odd firing correct? How do you have the dwell on your injectors and coil packs set?


    Once again, thanks for all the help.
     
  18. venom

    venom Active Member

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    I will post up screen shots of my settings later today as I have to go help a buddy fix his no start 93 f150 which had been sitting for over a year now. I want you to know that although I will give you settings, it is very important that you know what they do.
     
  19. lwarrior1016

    lwarrior1016 Moderator Staff SN95 Supporter

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    Ok. I understand that our combos are totally different, and getting right is crucial. I'm really only using it for reference and to learn from.
     
  20. venom

    venom Active Member

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    Please remember to double check with your setup. I will not be responsible for anyone using this and damaging their car. This is meant as a guide that work with my application. Take note that I am using E85 and current have e80 in my local gas station. I am learning on how to do this and by no means an expert so I welcome any advise. Also make sure you read the MS mega manual as there are jumpers and a little pot switch you need to adjust for Mustangs as if you dont you will not get a good crank signal and car will not start. If you need more clarification I will address issue in my detail but you should read mega manual in its entirely. Excuse the order of the pics as there are so many.

    Read this in its entirely:

    http://embeddeddesign.co.nz/guides/quick-start-guide/

    https://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/how_to_megasquirt_your_ford_modular_mustang.htm



    You must unlock Calibration in order to change settings.
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    You have to set these up according to the sensors that you have installed. You can not guess which there settings. I have GM sensors.

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    Note the injector size and engine size. These are important so that MS does some base line maps else where.
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    This setting has to be matched to your injectors. I have ID1300s. Yours should be a different # unless you have ID 1300s.
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    This is a work in progress and is by no means complete. My AFR is 11.2 using a gas scale for e85. According to TS docs its better to start rich then lean. I used MS autotune to get table within range.

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    Set this up to your setup.
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    I choose to stop warmup at 150 yours will be higher.. I will change this a little higher degrees later on.
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    Make sure to read question marks. You can blow out your ignition if setting are incorrect. Diyautotune.com has settings for COP. I have coil packs which affects some of the settings. Also note that before you power on MS inside you car you must remove fuses from the COP or Coil packs, coil driver etc. You igintion system should not be powered on when you upload these settings or damage may occur. The other way to do is to power MS using a stimjim and load settings. You must also change"fixed advance" to Fixed timing. This sets timing to 10d in which you use a timing light to verify that you are at 10d.
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    I am using 11.2 AFR for e85 to make things easy for now. Later on I will change AFRs.

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    Here you new to put you base fuel pressure at 100KPA or 0 vac. You must match what the injectors are setup for my ID3000 at setup for 43.5 psi.
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    This will be different depending on when you want warmup cycle to end, I chose to end it early but I am going to change to end a little later.
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    This will be different depending on when you want warmup cycle to end, I chose to end it early but I am going to change to end a little later.

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    This will be different depending on when you want warmup cycle to end, I chose to end it early but I am going to change to end a little later.

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    This will be different depending on when you want warmup cycle to end, I chose to end it early but I am going to change to end a little later.

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    This is the generic table and I have not mess around with it. Since I am using E85 I can do more timing than regular gas.

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    This will be different depending on when you want warmup cycle to end, I chose to end it early but I am going to change to end a little later.

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    Here is the autotune feature that you can buy which will make tuning easier.
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