Megasquirt SN95 with MS3 MS3X

evilcw311

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[MENTION=11896]ttocs[/MENTION] Scott as long as your health keeps holding up when your ready for a tune bring it to Blankenship. He's the best within a drivable distance. He's here in the Louisville area.


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ttocs

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That takes me back to while I don't plan on retuning the car every other month for more power, the idea of a 5-6hr round trip for it every time it needs it just isn't appealing. I am still leaning towards the MS option as it would also allow to monitor/data log they way I would like too with the system I would install.
 
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venom

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I just went and checked mine, if I ground my pin and do the powers individually it varies the speed high or low depending on the pin I supply power to. However, is I put power to both at the same time it defaults to high speed setting. I didn't find a medium speed on mine.
Want to touch on this again. When you powered both high and low, did you remove low and see if it made a difference in speed?
 

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Want to touch on this again. When you powered both high and low, did you remove low and see if it made a difference in speed?

I just went out to the car and did the test again. I have high and low respectively, Then with both wires on I have a high speed, If I remove the low wire there is no change in speed. So mine is definitely only 2 speeds.
 
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venom

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Wow that's strange. I just wired my old motor that's on its last legs and it does same thing as new motor. Looks like it has 3 speeds. I bypassed CCRM and wired directly to battery. I'm not going to spend more time on this but going to wire up another trigger wire to have option of 3 speeds. Would be interesting to find out if CCRM provides power to both high and low when high speed fan is triggered. Perhaps someone reading this post can check if that is the case since both you and I have bypassed our stock PCM. That would settle the issue for sure. Wonder if the year makes a difference as I know that Ford made changes from year to year with CCRMs. I would say it would be easier on alternator to have speed go up gradually.
 

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Well, I have been emailing Matt the past couple days and have made minimal progress, if any. I made sure my pots were adjusted correctly (I've actually tried all kinds of different settings) and I made sure that everything was present in the system. I have gone over the schematics for the VR circuit and checked to make sure that every component is making it to its next destination. I did a points test. Everything seems to be correct but I am still not getting a RPM signal to the laptop. I am going to check more solder connections tomorrow and see what I can do. I also posted up for help over on MSextra and Corral. I haven't gotten any answers there though.
 

ttocs

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Where did you tag the tach wire at? Did you know how to and test for it first?

In case you don't:
Take a volt meter and be sure to set it to AC voltage this time, not DC like you normally do to test your battery. On some meters you might need to move the red test lead at the meter into a different location, black should remain the same. Simply ground the black wire to a clean part of the chassis or a good ground and then test the wire you are tapping with the red lead. Start the car and the AC voltage should rise with rpms.
 
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venom

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I had a no signal issue and it was that pot that was not adjusted. Did you use a new shielded wire? Have you check continuity, no breaks in wire to connector? Are you sure you wired it right? Pin 1 white and 24 black , the shielded braid does not connect to anything on connector side only MS side pin 2, see wiring schematic. Have you double checked to make sure the 3.0 board pin layout is the same as 3.57 assembled board?
 

lwarrior1016

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Where did you tag the tach wire at? Did you know how to and test for it first?

In case you don't:
Take a volt meter and be sure to set it to AC voltage this time, not DC like you normally do to test your battery. On some meters you might need to move the red test lead at the meter into a different location, black should remain the same. Simply ground the black wire to a clean part of the chassis or a good ground and then test the wire you are tapping with the red lead. Start the car and the AC voltage should rise with rpms.

I will check my crank sensor signal again today. It was good when I put it in and its also the same sensor I had running the car before I tore it down.

I had a no signal issue and it was that pot that was not adjusted. Did you use a new shielded wire? Have you check continuity, no breaks in wire to connector? Are you sure you wired it right? Pin 1 white and 24 black , the shielded braid does not connect to anything on connector side only MS side pin 2, see wiring schematic. Have you double checked to make sure the 3.0 board pin layout is the same as 3.57 assembled board?

The wire harnesses were constructed by DiyAutoTune. The crank sensor wires are a twisted pair and had the bare wire wrapped around them both. I have believed that it was passed the car because I cannot get a signal from the jimstim while I am testing on the bench either. I am going to play with the pots some more this morning. maybe I just need to get crazy with the adjustment.
 
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venom

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I will check my crank sensor signal again today. It was good when I put it in and its also the same sensor I had running the car before I tore it down.



The wire harnesses were constructed by DiyAutoTune. The crank sensor wires are a twisted pair and had the bare wire wrapped around them both. I have believed that it was passed the car because I cannot get a signal from the jimstim while I am testing on the bench either. I am going to play with the pots some more this morning. maybe I just need to get crazy with the adjustment.
Rotate it CCW 20 times if need be as you can't over do it. You can also measure resistor and see what voltage its putting out. Since my MS was assembled didn't really need to test it on stim.
 

lwarrior1016

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Rotate it CCW 20 times if need be as you can't over do it. You can also measure resistor and see what voltage its putting out. Since my MS was assembled didn't really need to test it on stim.

I tested voltage on the resistor and turned it until the voltage would not go any lower. I also tried it 6 turns clockwise as per someones advise on msextra. Also to no avail. I got an email from Matt today and he told me how to set it up in basic trigger mode and when I do that I am getting one of the LED's lit up as soon as I power on the board. He is thinking it might be a problem with the daughter card.
 
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venom

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I tested voltage on the resistor and turned it until the voltage would not go any lower. I also tried it 6 turns clockwise as per someones advise on msextra. Also to no avail. I got an email from Matt today and he told me how to set it up in basic trigger mode and when I do that I am getting one of the LED's lit up as soon as I power on the board. He is thinking it might be a problem with the daughter card.

Hopefully you can figure it out soon. I was telling my wife today that the mechanical aspect of building the car was not difficult it was the switching over to a standalone ECU with all new wiring that was a bit challenging.
 

ttocs

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I use to question why people would go carbed with all the advances that have been made with fuel injection. I no longer have that question in my head.......
 

evilcw311

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I use to question why people would go carbed with all the advances that have been made with fuel injection. I no longer have that question in my head.......

Quitter............ Lol


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ttocs

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what I am not doing it. I just completely understand why someone would now. Not saying I have not considered it but the thought always started with "This sucks F-it, get a carb...." I am far too fond of that intake I spent too much time on to ditch it and put a carb on it even if I was too fed up trying to figure out this tunings shtuff.
 
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venom

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what I am not doing it. I just completely understand why someone would now. Not saying I have not considered it but the thought always started with "This sucks F-it, get a carb...." I am far too fond of that intake I spent too much time on to ditch it and put a carb on it even if I was too fed up trying to figure out this tunings shtuff.
Worse case send it in to be repaired or but build ecu. One thing is for sure, I would do it again. My car has never run as good as it is running now.
 

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Dont give up! You stuck in a learning curve....thats all. Your patients now will further the intellect in this forum later. Youre doing good.
 
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venom

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This is the hardest part. Once you figure it out it will be worth it, trust me.
 

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