Meter Match - Oil Pressure & Coolant Temp Gauge Update

lutter94 · May 17, 2018

Went down quite a rabbit hole lately. Ended up buying 2 MeterMach MM-1 units, along with an Autometer 2242 Oil Pressure Sending Unit, and a AEM 30-2013 Water Temp Sensor. The oil pressure adaptation has already been explained by Mark Olson, and TechnoVersions has already posted the whole process for this. I'm attempting to take it a step further and make my coolant temp gauge more understandable/accurate. Apparently his v1.2 included the OEM temp sensor, but v1.3 had it removed. The aftermarket sensor has a better output curve to calibrate to. Will see how it goes. I hate not knowing how hot it really is, esp after having the needle off a couple times with gauge face swaps.

Mark's write up
https://www.technoversions.com/MeterMatchMustangHowTo.pdf

I think I settled on the second cal, the tough part is getting a 4 point cal to come close to the calibration curve (it isn't linear).

lutter94 · May 23, 2018

lwarrior1016 · May 24, 2018

Are you going to get a new overlay for your gauges that shows the temps?

I remember watching this guy going through the R&D a few years back, he has been working on this for quite some time. Its cool to see someone actually using his stuff.

lutter94 · May 26, 2018

Black cat custom has sent an example of oil pressure in numerical form. It's pretty slick looking. I'm not sure if they'd be okay with me posting it. Need to ask what styles are available as I have reverse glow mac white face gauges. Want something similar....

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

ttocs · May 27, 2018

how much does this kit cost?

lutter94 · May 27, 2018

One metermatch for each of the coolant and oil gauges. 50 bucks each. Then an oil sender is like 40 bucks. And you can use the oem temp sensor, but Mark had issues with it so I bought one he recommended for 50 bucks. It has a better resistance curve for the calibration.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Tillerman77 · May 28, 2018

lutter94 said:
Went down quite a rabbit hole lately. Ended up buying 2 MeterMach MM-1 units, along with an Autometer 2242 Oil Pressure Sending Unit, and a AEM 30-2013 Water Temp Sensor. The oil pressure adaptation has already been explained by Matt Olson, and TechnoVersions has already posted the whole process for this. I'm attempting to take it a step further and make my coolant temp gauge more understandable/accurate. Apparently his v1.2 included the OEM temp sensor, but v1.3 had it removed. The aftermarket sensor has a better output curve to calibrate to. Will see how it goes. I hate not knowing how hot it really is, esp after having the needle off a couple times with gauge face swaps.

Matt's write up
https://www.technoversions.com/MeterMatchMustangHowTo.pdf

I think I settled on the second cal, the tough part is getting a 4 point cal to come close to the calibration curve (it isn't linear).

Slight correction to give proper credit - it is Mark Olson, not Matt Olson. Otherwise cool project!

lutter94 · May 28, 2018

Fixed!!!

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

lutter94 · May 29, 2018

Anyone replaced the oil pressure switch with a sending unit? Do I need to use the extension? It seems unnecessarily long.

ttocs · May 29, 2018

post pics

lwarrior1016 · May 30, 2018

Never done it on a 302, on a 4.6 the sender screws right in.

lutter94 · May 30, 2018

It's a pain in the rear, especially with a coolant mess on the floor. For the 4.6 guys, the filter sticks out of the left side at the front of the block.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

lutter94 · May 30, 2018

Found some pics in here, doesn't look fun with a running car....

http://www.sn95forums.com/showthread.php?71705-ELECTRICAL-Water-Temp-amp-Oil-Pressure-gauge-install

ttocs · May 30, 2018

oh yea, as you can see in those links it can be a pain to get one in there. often the new sender gets in the way of the filter which is why it sticks out so far.

lutter94 · Jun 6, 2018

Ended up buying a GM oil sending unit, it has the same threads as the block, and a resistance output I can work with. Used a mechanical gauge, pump, and multimeter to document the resistance curve, as it isn't advertised anywhere online. I used the 4 red boxes, green cells, as my calibration points. Put zero as far left as possible, 10 where it says 11 below, 40 dead center, and 70 on 70. Don't have it installed yet, might have to pull the left half of the accessory brackets off to get in there with a socket. Any tips? lol.

This guy cut open the GM sender, shows how it works, etc. Also have the option to wire in a low oil pressure alert, etc.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c2igtCvCNwA

riored4v · Jun 6, 2018

For the sending unit on my 94 I just relocated it since it was a pain in the stock location. I used some fittings, a AN line, and then a tee so I could mount the stock sending unit and the aftermarket one. Since you're only using the one you ditch the tee. Just an idea for ya.

To remove the factory one make sure you use the specific socket. I liked this one since it tapered down at the end and gave a little extra clearance. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A8FMXDY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

How I installed mine with the AN line

0319161128 by riored4v, on Flickr

And then the bracket on how it's mounted the WP bolts

1010151311 by riored4v, on Flickr

1010151311a by riored4v, on Flickr

lutter94 · Jun 6, 2018

Whats with all these special sockets?!? lol

ttocs · Jun 6, 2018

I hated the way I had to get mine to fit until I went with the oil cooler that had a separate hook up. Seems like a lot of work to make the stock gauge accurate. For the same price you could have a more accurate gauge but I understand not wanting to put any others on.

lutter94 · Jun 8, 2018

Did a pressure check with the oil sensor not installed, figured it was a lot of work to get it installed and have issues. Didn't seem to care if I grounded it to the battery or the accessory brackets, the needle pointed to the same spot. Posted the video to flickr......

https://flic.kr/p/26DFYnR