Mid to bottom 12s help

AJCrader

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I am looking to get a build list with trying to keep the stock long block on my '01 GT as is, since this is to be a bracket car...

want to stay away from n2o, turbo, or blower

only current mods are 4.56, spooled rear, and a bama tune...

trying to keep this as budget as possible, but will be getting big&littles soon and some weight reduction.

Please help...just looking for a parts list...thankis in advance...and my searches came up with very little
 

Musturd

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I'll say this before anything nos is easier on a motor then any form of boost with that being said .... I'd get some cams , long tubes a real tune and possibly some MHS heads and have some fun .
 

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I'll say this before anything nos is easier on a motor then any form of boost with that being said .... I'd get some cams , long tubes a real tune and possibly some MHS heads and have some fun .

This.
My 02 GT with 80k miles on motor: comp xe268's, BBK CAI, NX wet kit 125 shot & window switches etc, Magnaflow catback, 90/10's front, 5-way adjustable rears, I ran 12.3-12.1 on a ET Drag all day long or till the bottle went dry.
 

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This.
My 02 GT with 80k miles on motor: comp x268's, BBK CAI, NX wet kit 125 shot & window switches etc, Magnaflow catback, 90/10's front, 5-way adjustable rears, I ran 12.3-12.1 on a ET Drag all day long or till the bottle went dry.


You continue to be cooler and cooler the more you post ;) this girl right here knows her stuff and can out drive 95% of the guys on this forum hands down ....
 
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AJCrader

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Thanks for responding Mustrd, I know n2o is the easiest, but it is also fairly inconsistent, and with this being a bracket car I need consistency.

The point for me is to keep this as budget as possible, and to use the stock long block NA, meaning leaving the stock heads/cams on it with no power adders...if this isn't possible to run mid/low 12's, I'll leave it as is and slowly build it up otherwise, I know converter will help, and the j-mod/shift kit route as well...but I'm more looking to see what I can squeeze out with plenum/TB, intake, exhaust, CAI...I kow the tune from bama isn't the best, but I don't trust anyone local, and I am by no means a tuner

After some research my ideas were to get a ~3000 stall converter, 78mm BBK TB/Plenum combo, long tubes with 3" o/r x-pipe no mufflers, and whichever CAI I can find for a reasonable price. It is my understanding that this combo with the weight savings and the gear I have should easily get me 13's, maybe high 12s at best...but again not sure

as far as power adders go, I will eventually get a n2o kit, and run it until it blows...intend on slowly building a carbed motor to run after the stock one lets go, just not sure what I want to build yet
 
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AJCrader

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This.
My 02 GT with 80k miles on motor: comp xe268's, BBK CAI, NX wet kit 125 shot & window switches etc, Magnaflow catback, 90/10's front, 5-way adjustable rears, I ran 12.3-12.1 on a ET Drag all day long or till the bottle went dry.

Thanks for your response as well, based on it and Mustrd's I take it cam's and n2o are needed to get to my intent at a minimum?
 

miss.mod.50

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on a budget, I'd say yes. I'll admit I was really suprised how well my 2v responded to those comps. I can PM you my youtube channel for some videos of the car at idle with the xe268's and a couple nitrous passes at my local track.
 
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AJCrader

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My main goal is to stay away from n2o until I can have another motor ready to put in, also, I notice that those cams are designed for 3.23-3.55 gears and I have 4.56's

I'd love to see the vids!

I am not overtly worried about going fast right now, just would like to be able to hold my own when I'm on the street, and 14.4's as it was before the gear change wouldn't do that...I figure until I can get a truck and trailer to haul it to the races, I need to keep it to where I can get it through emissions here in Phoenix.

and again thanks!
 

duff daddy

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I ran 12.6 with a motor that burned a qt of oil per pass and all it had pi heads, 270 cams and slicks.....all motor
 
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AJCrader

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I ran 12.6 with a motor that burned a qt of oil per pass and all it had pi heads, 270 cams and slicks.....all motor

I'm thinking the cams are a good idea, but I have never done them, and those things are more expensive than I expected them to be.
 

duff daddy

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I sold my cams used, with upgraded springs and retainers for 500.... good deals can be found.
 
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AJCrader

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What about going a bit more with the cams on a stock motor? like the 274 or 278's? Keep in mind for the time being I have to drive to the track and that is about all it'll see other than track time though.
 
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You aren't going to be able to do 12s without major work on that car and bracket race at the same time. I've been bracket racing for 14 years since I was 14. It's not going to be easy with the mustang especially during the hot days. I would try to run it at operating temperature to keep the temperature consistent. It will be a learning curve but I never got a chance to try with a new converter. Call up freak show performance in Texas to get a good built converter. And seat time is going to be your biggest help.
 

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Yup..^ This

And I can offer significant rotation weight redution by machining pulleys (like .3lbs) flywheels (9lbs) and rear gears
 
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AJCrader

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You aren't going to be able to do 12s without major work on that car and bracket race at the same time. I've been bracket racing for 14 years since I was 14. It's not going to be easy with the mustang especially during the hot days. I would try to run it at operating temperature to keep the temperature consistent. It will be a learning curve but I never got a chance to try with a new converter. Call up freak show performance in Texas to get a good built converter. And seat time is going to be your biggest help.

I have been around drag racing since the late '80's, but no one ever really included me for some reason...I know the ins and outs of bracket racing, just starting from scratch again sucks...I try to make sure the car is up to standard operating temps, do the same burnout everytime, stage the same everytime...and with the footbrake my RTs are not there yet, still learning the car...I am going to keep it very streetable until I can manage the funds for a tow vehicle, so the AC/radio stay in the car otherwise I am going to slowly gut it, been looking for a better TB/Plenum too.

Yup..^ This

And I can offer significant rotation weight redution by machining pulleys (like .3lbs) flywheels (9lbs) and rear gears


I am not looking that much into weight reduction at this time.
 
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AJCrader

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Do you keep a lot book? Weather station might help too. Brand new car means new learning curve. I'll be doing the same thing this year.

I'll start a log book, once I am done making changes, been different each time I've had the car out, so no useful info yet...I need a weather station for sure, but my money is going into the car at the moment, weather station will come later too
 

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