Misfire/No start

DonTheMan

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Hello There 96 PI swap thank you for help

Posted in a different forum but my issue is, its hard to start cold runs decent then after a while misfires and stalls. Then turns into a crank no start. While running the throttle has very heavy throttle lag, and barely can get up any inclines. The backfires on it are crazy loud to. Only code is for temp sensor because of PI intake, Tested fuel pressure around 40psi, double checked for vacuum leaks quick fixed some leaks. Also my spark plugs are really dark. Mechanics keep saying fuel pump but the fuel pressure is good and steady. Is there something im missing?
Again thanks for any help
 
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DonTheMan

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I bought it with the PI parts installed already, and it ran fine for a month or 2. So I haven’t touched cam yet. Should I have to look into retiming maybe?
 

RAU03MACH

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check once more
you may want to add a oil catch can to your intake
it would affect the mass air flow the throttle body and all sensors on throttle body
also affect the plugs the way fires
 

RAU03MACH

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An oil catch can is a device that helps to prevent oil from entering the engine. It is installed between the engine and the air intake system. The purpose of an oil catch can is to collect oil vapors before they enter the engine. This helps to keep the engine clean and free of deposits. The full range of oil catch can benefits include:
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  • Carbon Buildup Prevention: Oil catch cans intercept and collect oil vapor and contaminants before entering the engine's intake system.
  • Improved Airflow: The presence of oil vapor and contaminants in the intake system can disrupt the airflow and air-to-fuel ratio, leading to less efficient combustion.
 
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DonTheMan

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Ok, ill try making a homemade one if I can don't really like to spend money or wait lol. The plugs are dirty again, and oil is back in the throttle plate
 

ttocs

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Is it normal to not have the temp sensor read after a pi swap? Wouldn't the motor need the temp to know what parameters to set up for the motor as far as timing/IAC/ect?
 
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DonTheMan

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Other post ive been reading about it says, the newer pi intake didnt have 2 temp sensor and the one im missing is for the radiator fan signal. But it has an aftermarket fan running on switch
 

96blak54

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Have you tried unplugging the mas air sensor and then drive the car? If the cars power comes back strong, i would focus attention on either cleaning the mas air or finding another replacement
 
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DonTheMan

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I tried cleaning it and nothing changed. Just checked oil its way over full and smells like fuel would this be piston issue?

Just put on a set of ignition wires and now it runs decent but it still doesnt start back up/ hard start when warm ill try to change spark plugs anything else might be causing it?
 
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96blak54

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I repeat, unplug the maf, then drive the car. Its possible the maf is currupt and unplugging it will send the computer into a mode that doesnt accept maf readings. Itll base fuel trims from o2 sensors only. Wont hurt the car unplugging it.
 

Terrorist 5.0

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If your plugs are getting soaked and your oil is over full then your car is likely over fueling. I would unplug the MAF first and foremost like everyone is telling you to do. Also, while it is unlikely, are you sure you have the firing order right? I’ve mixed mine up the first time I did a tune up on my car (number 6 is where 1 should be, someone before me messed with it), and when I started it and drove it, it had similar symptoms.
 
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Mustang5L5

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Other post ive been reading about it says, the newer pi intake didnt have 2 temp sensor and the one im missing is for the radiator fan signal. But it has an aftermarket fan running on switch

WHich one did you install and which did you leave out?

One sensor is for the cluster gauge, and the other is for the ECU. If your coolant temp gauge is registering normally, then you are missing the one for the ECU.

Given that you have a code for coolant sensor, i would bet it's the one for the ECU that's not hooked up. Given your symptoms, it would explain everything.
 

Terrorist 5.0

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WHich one did you install and which did you leave out?

One sensor is for the cluster gauge, and the other is for the ECU. If your coolant temp gauge is registering normally, then you are missing the one for the ECU.

Given that you have a code for coolant sensor, i would bet it's the one for the ECU that's not hooked up. Given your symptoms, it would explain everything.
That would explain the oil level too, over full from way over fueling from no temp sensor reading
 

Mustang5L5

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Yup, and the fouled plugs. She's rich. Crank/no start is another common symptom of that. Bet it would hot restart if he held the accelerator down to the floor (flood clear mode)

Get a coolant sensor hooked up ASAP and change the oil and plugs



EDIT: although i'm struggling to see why the mechanic isn't catching this.
 

Terrorist 5.0

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Yup, and the fouled plugs. She's rich. Crank/no start is another common symptom of that. Bet it would hot restart if he held the accelerator down to the floor (flood clear mode)

Get a coolant sensor hooked up ASAP and change the oil and plugs



EDIT: although i'm struggling to see why the mechanic isn't catching this.
@ttocs caught on pretty early, although I don't know much about the 4.6 compared to a 5.0, let alone NPI vs PI. If the PI ones only use one sensor instead of 2 that would explain it perfectly. There simply isn't a port for another one. OP would have to drill and tap for another sensor, just like the Explorer GT40 intakes to be used on a Fox. Isn't that poetic?
 

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