MM Max Grip box

Cochise

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So 3 months into it now, I’m about 90% done! What I ordered was a complete maximum grip box with everything except for the rear sway-bar option.

The only thing lift are these items.
- Subframe connectors
- Web Brace (from Stifflers)
- Torque Arm
- Set Bump Steer
- Alignment

Hoping to get it all done in the next 3 weeks as I’ve got a Track event coming up. At the very least I’ll get the Bump Steer set and an alignment done.

A few questions.
- Those that have a similar set up, what ride height do you typically live at? Both front and rear?
- Any little things I should look out for? The instructions are very helpful but experience always provides another perspective.

I’m hoping to take it out today or tomorrow to get the suspension settled so I can install the PH bar.mustang 2.jpgmustang 1.jpg
 

white95

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A good rule thumb is to set the front and rear arms parallel to the ground. Don’t get lost in how the car looks. Drive it that way and then lower it some more and decide for yourself.

You’ll find that the car seems to body roll A LOT more with the torque arm. This is normal and you need to make sure you have clearance on the inner sides of the tires, not just the fender lips. I had to clearance my wheel wells adjacent to the inner, rear of the tires. (ie beat the piss out of it with a BFH) There is a seam that can either be cut and folded in or just massaged inwards.

Sometimes, if you have too much rear brake bias, you’ll have rear wheel hop under extreme braking. This is normal with the TA geometry and not much you can do to remedy it. Just don’t go too big with your rear rotor size or pistons increases in the calipers.

Prepare for added NVH that will have you questioning life. You just bolted a massive tuning fork to your car and it will transmit all sorts of noise/vibration right under your ass.

The front nut of the torque arm take more than 200 lb ft so prepare yourself for that lol

Trust the instructions and you’ll be fine. Prepare to kick ass.

5C20B47D-3BFC-46E8-A6D6-8B452B70AFB0.jpeg
 
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Cochise

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A good rule thumb is to set the front and rear arms parallel to the ground. Don’t get lost in how the car looks. Drive it that way and then lower it some more and decide for yourself.

You’ll find that the car seems to body roll A LOT more with the torque arm. This is normal and you need to make sure you have clearance on the inner sides of the tires, not just the fender lips. I had to clearance my wheel wells adjacent to the inner, rear of the tires. (ie beat the piss out of it with a BFH) There is a seam that can either be cut and folded in or just massaged inwards.

Sometimes, if you have too much rear brake bias, you’ll have rear wheel hop under extreme braking. This is normal with the TA geometry and not much you can do to remedy it. Just don’t go too big with your rear rotor size or pistons increases in the calipers.

Prepare for added NVH that will have you questioning life. You just bolted a massive tuning fork to your car and it will transmit all sorts of noise/vibration right under your ass.

The front nut of the torque arm take more than 200 lb ft so prepare yourself for that lol

Trust the instructions and you’ll be fine. Prepare to kick ass.
This is great info, thanks!

I didn't think to set the Control arms parallel, great suggestions.

Do you have picture of the rear inner wheel-well seam? I will check it out as soon as I can.

I have cobra brakes. The calipers are the same but the rear rotor is slightly bigger, 0.5 inch I think.

Thanks for the input!
 

white95

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This is great info, thanks!

I didn't think to set the Control arms parallel, great suggestions.

Do you have picture of the rear inner wheel-well seam? I will check it out as soon as I can.

I have cobra brakes. The calipers are the same but the rear rotor is slightly bigger, 0.5 inch I think.

Thanks for the input!

Your brake bias should be fine. If it feels like the rear is grabbing too hard, put some cheap pads in the rear and upgrade the front. That should shift the bias for you.

I’ll take some pictures of the massage work later this evening. If not, I’ll certainly have them for you friday.
 
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Cochise

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Clarification when they say "parallel to the ground". I'm assuming this is under full load?
 
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Cochise

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Today we went for it’s dirty maiden voyage…. And I didn’t die!

Obviously I need alignment, bump steer set, and still need the SF connect word and torque arm… but so far it feels great!

The steering was incredibly precise. I can’t wait til it’s all buttoned up!
 

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r3dn3ck

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A maximum grip box does by default include a solid steering shaft. I have mine sitting on a shelf with the rest of the MM kit I've accumulated this year waiting for the CO's to arrive so I can go have it all installed.
 

r3dn3ck

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Today we went for it’s dirty maiden voyage…. And I didn’t die!

Obviously I need alignment, bump steer set, and still need the SF connect word and torque arm… but so far it feels great!

The steering was incredibly precise. I can’t wait til it’s all buttoned up!
Looks really good. I can see those front tires splayed out. eeeesh. Nothing an alignment won't take care of.
 

ttocs

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I did all my suspension stuff a little at a time and I know I was always amazed how I could feel a difference here/there. I think if I did it all at once like this it would feel like a completely different car.
 
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Cochise

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Looks really good. I can see those front tires splayed out. eeeesh. Nothing an alignment won't take care of.
Yea. I still have to measure and set the Toe then set the bump steer. I talked to MM and they said to that before the alignment.

I did all my suspension stuff a little at a time and I know I was always amazed how I could feel a difference here/there. I think if I did it all at once like this it would feel like a completely different car.
Oh yea. Obviously their are adjustments to be made, but a short 15 minute drive and I can tell it’s a completely different car.

Shit negative camber saves lives :p
Yessir!!
 

ttocs

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I just remember pulling out after the subframe connectors were installed and being amazed at how much stiffer it felt. Then after the rest of the suspension upgrades it felt different again. Doing it all at once I think would throw things off so much that while they all were working perfect that it would feel so different that I would be sure something was really really wrong. Hell I had that feeling as it was.....
 

white95

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My alignment spec may not be the greatest for a street car but it does handle like a cat on carpet.

-2.3 camber

+5.5 caster

0.25 toe out

It really needs a bit more caster but I’m not touching it until the car is corner weighed.

A4736876-560C-42A0-99BD-6E15000DC2DE.jpeg
 

ttocs

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My alignment spec may not be the greatest for a street car but it does handle like a car on carpet.

-2.3 camber

+5.5 caster

0.25 toe out

It really needs a bit more caster but I’m not touching it until the car is corner weighed.

View attachment 24959
you can borrow my bathroom scale. Just use yours and find 2 more and we are there!
 

Snorky

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Prepare for added NVH that will have you questioning life. You just bolted a massive tuning fork to your car and it will transmit all sorts of noise/vibration right under your ass.

LOL this is so true. I question if my driveline or bearings or Tq arm installation is right apl the time
 

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