more power

98-5.0

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now that my 98 5.0 conversion is complete........now i want more power and stock 302 blocks are junk....so i was wounderin what you guys thought about a 351 windsor based turbo everyday driver and do you think a 86' 351 based motor can handle 500hp at the wheels or at least close to it....also post up some stroker idea's im thinkin either a 357 or a maybe a n/a 427w ......post up
 

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the 302 blocks are by far a great motor....they were in the mustangs for how long? try a 331 stroker motor with a turbo.
 

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98-5.0 said:
now that my 98 5.0 conversion is complete........now i want more power and stock 302 blocks are junk....so i was wounderin what you guys thought about a 351 windsor based turbo everyday driver and do you think a 86' 351 based motor can handle 500hp at the wheels or at least close to it....also post up some stroker idea's im thinkin either a 357 or a maybe a n/a 427w ......post up

Retro fit a 351 with a roller cam kit. Buy a 393 stroker crank, recondition you stock rods and buy some forged 302 pistons.....done.

393 Stroker. Add power adder to flavor.
 
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98-5.0

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how can you or why would you run stock rods and a stroker crank....and 302 pistons are different that 351 pistons.......right.....if i do go turbo what should i stay around (hp) to be safe from blowin it.........i beat on my cars....
 

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What, you think I'm making this shit up? You run stock rods on a cast stroker crank b/c its CHEAP. 302 and 351 motors are windsor based motors. The difference in them is the deck heights. If you buy crankshaft with a 3.85" throw, run your STOCK 351 rods, not 302 like I said earlier, and 302 pistons, you get a 393 stroker. Yes the pistons are different but you gotta offset the increase in stroke buy lowering the piston in the bore so it doesn't come out the top...hence the 302 pistons. Its a budget stroker. If you keep the revs below 6500 and the power to around 500rwhp, it should be a great street motor. TORQUE for days.
 

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ryclef331 said:
What, you think I'm making this shit up? You run stock rods on a cast stroker crank b/c its CHEAP. 302 and 351 motors are windsor based motors. The difference in them is the deck heights. If you buy crankshaft with a 3.85" throw, run your STOCK 351 rods, not 302 like I said earlier, and 302 pistons, you get a 393 stroker. Yes the pistons are different but you gotta offset the increase in stroke buy lowering the piston in the bore so it doesn't come out the top...hence the 302 pistons. Its a budget stroker. If you keep the revs below 6500 and the power to around 500rwhp, it should be a great street motor. TORQUE for days.

That is the coolest thing I've ever heard and also the first time I've ever heard of this.

I must do this to my motor.

How much would EVERYTHING all together cost me approximately, from the moment the first bolt comes loose to the second i pull out of the place they tuned it at to drive home?
 

ryclef331

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I shouldn't cost but a few hundred bucks more than doing a 351 swap. I can't quote you an exact number obviously but you can save a TON of money by buying used parts of course. 302 pistons are a dime a dozen usually. I'm always on the look out for a 351 block to start gathering parts for it.
 
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But you need a new accesory mount as the 302's and 351's are different that way. The oiling system is also different. It's not exactly slap in in and turn it on.
 

ryclef331

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Midnight_Cobra said:
But you need a new accesory mount as the 302's and 351's are different that way. The oiling system is also different. It's not exactly slap in in and turn it on.

accessories? have you ever LOOKED at how YOUR accessories mount? This isn't a fox body. ALL accessories and brackets mount directly to the heads. Nothing touches the timing cover. SO, you get the appropriate balancer or balancer spacer, slap on ALL YOUR STOCK BRACKETS AND ACCESSORIES, pick up a slightly longer belt....DONE. The oiling system is a no brainer....if you're rebuilding a motor, why in the hell would you put some tired ass used oil pump in a new stroker motor? You say oil system like its a big deal. Yeah you need new headers Noone said it was a straight drop in affair but it isn't exactly rocket science either.
 
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98-5.0

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well just so happens i got some .220 dome 302 pistons.....but just out of nowhere....what would i be lookin at if i was to throw the 351 back together witha rebuild kit and some ported stocker heads.....and redone....and a nice intake and stuff and slapped a turbo on it......im keepin fuel injection....
 

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Are they stock bore pistons or .030 over? I'm not a machine shop so i can't comment on how much it would cost YOU. Machine work isn't cheap man. Putting stock E7E's on a 393 is going to KILL that motor above 4 grand...if not lower. It'll rip stumps outta the ground down low but E7Es aren't going to do anything for it after that. If you're not looking for crazy power numbers but want to break 300 on motor, a set of mildly worked over GT40's could do the job.

I think you could build the SHORT BLOCK for less than $1500 if you really haggle some deals on the block, rods, and pistons. The crank would be the most exspensive part and balancing the whole assembly is where machine work starts to get pricey. remember also you're going to need a 28oz balancer and flywheel for a 351 based motor. You distributor no longer works with this motor....nor do your headers. You can either modify your stock fuel rail to work or pick up one from a EFI'd 351 (like a first gen lightning).

It isn't a project for the weak at heart and it probably wouldn't get done over a weekend unless you have EVERYTHING there ready to go...but noone ever does. I'm not trying to stray you away from doing it but just letting you know what you're in for.
 
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98-5.0

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i realize all of that im just tryin to figure out a plan to stick with and build towards....i have the block, rods, few sets of pistons to chosse from and all the bearings and a few good cam grinds and stuff.......i just want a turbocharged everyday driver that will put me in the 450-500 at the wheels or is that to much to ask for out of a stock 351 block????? and im kinda leanin towards just punchin .020 or .030 over cause strokers dont last as long...but it depends on who builds it and quality of machine work to.....soo.....
 

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Man thats my eventual goal. I would do the 351 too not as many people have em. You do have to change a few things but I think its worth it. And like ryclef said if you wanted to go bigger then 357-8 you can do your own stroker off that and have a 393. 351s are stronger blocks also. Goodluck and let us know what you decide on.
 

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Why not go with the new Boss 302 block from Ford? I like the specs on it & the power output...super strong block, can't we use it in our cars?
 

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Id love to do a stroked 427 Windsor with Clevor heads but dont wanna have to put a Cobra R hood on. So I'll probably just do a 347 with Clevors from Edlebrock and a Cobra intake. Kinda like a modern Boss 302. O0
 
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ryclef331 said:
Midnight_Cobra said:
But you need a new accesory mount as the 302's and 351's are different that way. The oiling system is also different. It's not exactly slap in in and turn it on.

accessories? have you ever LOOKED at how YOUR accessories mount? This isn't a fox body. ALL accessories and brackets mount directly to the heads. Nothing touches the timing cover. SO, you get the appropriate balancer or balancer spacer, slap on ALL YOUR STOCK BRACKETS AND ACCESSORIES, pick up a slightly longer belt....DONE. The oiling system is a no brainer....if you're rebuilding a motor, why in the hell would you put some tired ass used oil pump in a new stroker motor? You say oil system like its a big deal. Yeah you need new headers Noone said it was a straight drop in affair but it isn't exactly rocket science either.

Well I get my info from magazine write ups, and my buddy who was ford mechanic. I never said it was hard, just saying its not as easy as a 302 stroker.
 
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98-5.0

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i know its out of the blue but what kind of finish are those cobra wheels.....machined or polished....or what ? i really want to put 03-04 cobras on my 98 body.......but i dont want crome.....
 
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Well if you are talking to me, then they are machine finish. I say get them!! They look killer.
 
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98-5.0

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do you think i should go with a 315 out back or stay 275 all around and will 275's all the way around work with a eibach pro kit???
 
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Well I'm lowered about 1.4" or so and I have no rubbing at all. 315's are VERY nice in the back, but if you do get them I would roll the inner fender for more clearance, but 275's up front and 315's in the back would look killer. I hope to do that, maybe when I need to buy tires.
 

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