MY KB for your H/C/I

[Spyder]

really i was under the assumption a well equipped H/C/I stang will beat me

was that on a dynojet or mustangdyno?

if its a dyno jet, then yeah there are plenty of HCI cars out there making more horses.
IM kinda with everyone else. I would try to keep the kenne and save up for some heads or something.

If its just your a/c thats not working so hot, maybe try purging and refilling the refridgerant.
And if its just your coolant, there are some cheap and easy tricks to keeping that pig running cooler.

 

[SvtBlack95]

:slap:keep it... very rare to have a KB sitting under the hood of our bodys.. come to think of it i think your the only one with a KB out almost 900 members.... hmmmm ???...... i would keep it if i were you and im sure that you can make more then 400hp with some heads, cam if dont have one,and maybe a couple of sprays of the bottle when you need it

 

[95KBGT]

can yall share how to keep it cooler. Im thinking of putting a valve so no coolant can go thru the heater core. a 180 degree thermostat and if i ever get money a fluodyne radiator. I allready added the fan mod, and some addtive to the coolant, but both do no good at 1pm with the a/c on in the city

 

[hottwheels04]

to 95KBGT , you can deff get like 280-350rwhp on like 6-10 psi on a kb on a stock 5.0 motor if u build ur motor u can do about 10-12 psi up to about 15 max and thats about 400-500rwhp, what more do u want out of a 302 with a kb??lol :thumb:

 

[MeanGrn Gt]

I was having cooling issues with my basically stock motor. What i did was flush and put new coolant in, new radiator cap, and a new 180 thermostat (195 is stock i believe and it had a 192 motorcraft in it from po). It used to get hot if i drove around in town for awhile or if i had ac on at any time it would get to 220+, and now it doesnt get above 210 and usually sticks around 200. I had gotten a bottle of water wetter but figured it wasnt needed so ill wait till i need it (after turbo and all that ill pry put it in). a 180 thermostat would definitely help and a fluidyne would pretty much eliminate your probs i imagine. If/when (more when than if )i put on the turbo and everything if temp becomes an issue ill put in a fluidyne if i have to, hopefully not but probably will need it for 100+ days with the ac on.

 

[94twinscrew]

can yall share how to keep it cooler. Im thinking of putting a valve so no coolant can go thru the heater core. a 180 degree thermostat and if i ever get money a fluodyne radiator. I allready added the fan mod, and some addtive to the coolant, but both do no good at 1pm with the a/c on in the city

Ok, first thing that you have to realize is that your current tune is VERY safe.....so if you're not happy with your numbers,maybe you should try another tuner. On average,bone stock 5.0's with the standard 1.5 kb typically hit 350-365rwhp with 400-420 ft torque at the boost level that you're at now. The key is proper fuel support and cooling. Your average hci and kb is around 450-460rwhp with supporting mods. Now if you add a Snow kit on top of either of setup,you will gain ALOT more power......believe me. If you go on the Corral, you will see that there are a few of us die hard kb guys that try to push the envelope as much as we can. Myself,Tinman,Cougar,and others have had exceptional luck in hitting unheard of numbers that aren't typically seen on your average kenne bell'd 5.0's. As of right now,Tinman and I are the most boost crazy,lol,but that's not a bad thing. His combo netted him over 570rwhp,and now his next run will be for 600rwhp.....here's a short list of his combosl

(OLD COMBO) 94 Cobra stock 100,000+ bottom end, trick flow heads, b-31 cam, 42lb, KB 2.2, 13-14 boost 90mm mass air, 70mm tb, 3.55, 2.5 mac, 1 5/8 LT, king cobra clutch, mac control arms, kyb rear shocks, methonal,MD MOTORSPORTS SCT tuned, dynoed 491 Rwh 520 T on 94 degree day

(NEW COMBO) Dart block 4.125 bore 347, home ported trick flows, B-31, fox 90mm, tko 500, methonal, 1 3/4 LT, 2.5 mac, KB 2.2 with ported intake and discharge, 60 lb, mallory rails, 6an feed, single 255 hp with boost a pump, MD MOTORSPORTS tuned, dynoed 570rwh @ 5900 566T 11.0 AFR 25 timing 15PSI

If all you're really bummed about is your cooling,then switch over to a 160 stat,and replace your old radiator with an OE replacement......sn-95 cars really don't need a fluidyne like our fox brotherin. Stock fox's come with copper rads,whereas sn-95's come with a wider aluminum core.....which sheds heat a lot faster. I run a stock replacement Carquest radiator in my car,with a stant 160* t-stat,fan switch,meth,and over 16.5psi.......and I never see my temps go above 183*,even in this past heat wave of a 100*....she was rock solid :thumb:

 

[95KBGT]

thanks man, im just getting really frustrated with getting her tuned, then i drop $100 bucks for a/c work and re charge and then in hot weather my engine gets so damn hot my a/c doesnt blow cold. all i want is 350HP and 400+ TQ and have a/c blow cold. any ideas on the cheapest method to get there? Heads? Snow kit? ive heard about the snow kit but i heard they were junk

 

[UrBaN96]

what kind of heads/cam are you looking for? probably wouldnt be interested in worked gt40p's would ya

 

[TRUUBLE]

thanks man, im just getting really frustrated with getting her tuned, then i drop $100 bucks for a/c work and re charge and then in hot weather my engine gets so damn hot my a/c doesnt blow cold. all i want is 350HP and 400+ TQ and have a/c blow cold. any ideas on the cheapest method to get there? Heads? Snow kit? ive heard about the snow kit but i heard they were junk

First . . Snow Kits are the real deal. Especially if you mix a little nitromethane in there (but don't do that without talking to me about how to do it first).

As far as your cooling system goes, there are a few issues:

First, the A/C condenser is not very good. If you can upgrade to a 97 Cobra condenser, it will help a lot.

Second, you really should have a Fluidyne in there. It's not that expensive of a mod and you can put it in in a few hours with basic tools.

Finally, you should be running a custom chip or, at least, have a tuner who can get in there and change stuff. The computer controls the fan on our cars and they don't turn on until the temp hits 215 (or something stupid like that). I have mine set in the computer to come on at 180 and to run only on high speed (some people will say that the fan is not designed to do this . . but the car is not designed for a blower, either).

If you address those issues, your cooling problem will be gone. Im making ridiculous hp in my car and driving it around in 110 degree heat . . and the air works great. But, I had to do all those things to get it there.

 

[jimgt95]

95KBGT, you've asked these coolling questions before and we keep giving you the same answers: T-stat, larger radiator. Just be patient and save your money.

I didn't just snap my fingers and all of my mods happened to my car. I've owned it since 1998 and have been doing mods on it since about 2000. It takes time, patience, and money to get it where you are really happy with it (not that any of us are every really satisfied ).

As far as your performance is concerned, you are doing good for a stock engine w/a KB 1500. My combo is conservatively tuned at 7.5 psi and I am happy with it for now. With some parts/tuning work AND TIME you can have a really powerful ride.

 

[94twinscrew]

thanks man, im just getting really frustrated with getting her tuned, then i drop $100 bucks for a/c work and re charge and then in hot weather my engine gets so damn hot my a/c doesnt blow cold. all i want is 350HP and 400+ TQ and have a/c blow cold. any ideas on the cheapest method to get there? Heads? Snow kit? ive heard about the snow kit but i heard they were junk

Here's a few things to remember when modding any car....

Power makes heat.....lower stat,better rad,fan control
The more power you want,the more money you'll have to spend......
There will always be something faster....
It will never be reliable as a stocker.......you may get it close,but to get there it will cost more money.lol
IT WILL NEVER BE FAST ENOUGH.....believe me,it's an addiction that's worse than crack!
Things will break when you least expect it........just like the saying goes, "it's only as strong as it's weakest link"
Never throw a cheap fix/part on a boosted car......you're just askin for a meltdown,or a new weak link to break.
Have realistic goals for you car .....everthing comes down to money and time,if you're limited on either,you'll never really enjoy what you have.

Like said before,you need a better way to control your cooling.....just as it was stated above,it takes time to work the kinks out. A fluidyne will help,along with a stat,but it's kinda overkill on most cars. You can get by on a brand new oe replacement for a 1/3 of the cost.....but you won't have the bling.lol If your car has over 80k miles on it,you're past due,and it's time to replace,or upgrade.

IMO, if you're running a non-innercooled kb,you should have a wet kit......there's just no reason not to have one. It lowers discharge temps,which also helps fight off the latent heat soak of the blower. It allows you to run more boost and timing,without the need for race fuel. And the biggest thing....it fights off detonation. Tip-in is a huge problem with kb's on sn-95's,and even with a tune,it can still be there....esp if you're banging through the gears. Without a bypass,your compressor is storing it's unspent heat inside it's case until you go into boost......this becomes a real problem if you like to hold the car at it's sweet spot before hitting it. Most tunes are still dependent on sensor input,so if you ACT is still in it's stock location,the eec still assumes that the intake discharge temps are close to it's ambient........not what is being stored inside the compressor,which is close to 250-289*. It's at this point when you puch it,that things can go very wrong......i've seen it happen,and it aint pretty.lol With meth,you drastically lower that chanch of ever happening.

 

[dnkapcorydnk]

Ive got to agree with everyone else... KEEP THE KB! Those snow kits rock btw, i had one on my 98 volkswagon tdi. That lil 4 banger turbo diesel was fun as hell but those boost temp CLIMB! By 3k rpm the comp was already pulling fuel (diesels run cooler the leaner they are kinda odd...) And about the overheating, I got 180,000+ miles on my 94 gt. I dont really know cause the odometer got stuck. It runs a little warm to. I flushed my coolant and droped in a new thermostat and it was cool for about a week but now i got a hairline crack on my passanger side end tank right where the neck is. SO IM GETTING A FLUIDYNE!