N/A motors

[Slowbro96]

So whats a good way to get into the high 300s or even into the mid 300s with out giving an arm and a leg for mods? I dont really wanna use N2o. lol... Already have headers and will be trying to do an IMRC delete. But like switch to like 5.4 aviator heads or newer cobra heads gain me some good HP/TQ? Like i said i wanna stay N\A

 

[Slowbro96]

Is a hand held tuner worth the investment? Like a deablo tuner? or one from AM

 

[D3VST8R96GT]

99 cobra/mach heads and intake. A tuner is nice tool to have

The D3V

 

[Slowbro96]

99 cobra intake bolt up to my heads ?

 

[D3VST8R96GT]

Nope

The D3V

 

[Caboose302]

Like D3V said, 4V is the way to go if you want higher hp N/A. Local guy has 400 rwhp and he's got a TON of money in his. I bought my car with ported heads that cost a little more than $3k and it's still only about 305 rwhp and they flow about the same as Cobra heads. When I get some good cams it should bring it up a little but you can pick up 4V heads and intake for around 1500.

Sent from mah Obamafone

 

[D3VST8R96GT]

400 na HP is a challenge not impossible but its not exactly a bolt on process..... unless you coyote swap......


But a 5.4 4v would be the easiest the have adapter plates to mate the 5.0 boss intake to c headed 5.4s

The D3V

 

[D3VST8R96GT]

There is a thread on here about the different type of 4v heads

Its the first sticky in this section.

The D3V

 

[Slowbro96]

UGH.... =[ Would be nice to make the slowbro a weee bit quicker then what it is already

 

[1997GT4.6]

lol, gonna cost a lot of dough. B 4vs or 4vs in general suck donkey balls to make high NA HP. But cams (serious cams), sri, march pullies, with your LTs will get you as close as possible to your goals without nitrous or blower. But this will cost you just as much as a used blower.

 

[Slowbro96]

Why do mod motors gotta cost so dam much! **** it ima buy 4:10s a turner for it and throw my hoosiers and put some stock ls1s down!! Mabey experiment with N20 just to see the look on there face haha

 

[MustangChris]

lol, gonna cost a lot of dough. B 4vs or 4vs in general suck donkey balls to make high NA HP. But cams (serious cams), sri, march pullies, with your LTs will get you as close as possible to your goals without nitrous or blower. But this will cost you just as much as a used blower.

yeaaaaaa. to a point. Just like any other engine, they have their fall-backs and their strong-points... N/A is totally possible in these, but when you compare the price of the F/I industry, people just go "why?"

without pulling off the heads, I'd lean towards telling you to just go with a power adder, as well.

Why do mod motors gotta cost so dam much! **** it ima buy 4:10s a turner for it and throw my hoosiers and put some stock ls1s down!! Mabey experiment with N20 just to see the look on there face haha

you'll definitely be in a whole new world with this! I have 4.10s and they pull HARD. You'll love 'em!

 

[Mystic SVT]

03-05 C-heads, mach 1 intake (10" shortrunner or ported), Comp cams 106100's, longtubes, ,march fluid damper, JLT intake, 4.10s, aluminum flywheel, tune. That should get you 350-365hp

I'm at 310hp with IMRC deletes, JLT true cold air, pulleys, alum driveshaft, 180* thermostat, shortrunner intake, longtubes, o/r X, with B heads. Ran a 13.0 @ 109mph weighing 3700lbs on that run.

 

[96blak54]

Thats actually not to bad for a full weight car.

 

[robb15033]

An SCT tuner is a must, in my opinion. You can get one anytime. I suggest a dyno tune. After basic mods are completed, a dyno tune will be a beautiful thing.

 

[BigBore96]

A handheld is overrated with bolt ons.

Like they said, cams shortrunner intake, 4.10s will get you moving. If you are serious about power go with a boss block and a stroker. Or spin a big bore to the moon on a stock stroke.

 

[spank 141]

Modular mustang racing widens the stock 96-98 intake to fit on 5.4s. It would trick most people into thinking you still had the 4.6. They also do different intakes sheet metal i think for B headed cars. But they are expensive. http://www.modularmotorsportsracing.com/

 

[BigBore96]

Modular mustang racing widens the stock 96-98 intake to fit on 5.4s. It would trick most people into thinking you still had the 4.6. They also do different intakes sheet metal i think for B headed cars. But they are expensive. http://www.modularmotorsportsracing.com/

For a 5.4 you are still better off going c heads and adapting a coyote intake.

The mmr intakes are a joke across the board. The rts intake has been proven to make lower power than a stock intake. And the street version of their intake I don't believe exists. I've never seen anyone buy the str version and post results. Mmr is afraid of that question as well. And trust me people have asked about the street version.

 

[Mystic SVT]

For a 5.4 you are still better off going c heads and adapting a coyote intake.

The mmr intakes are a joke across the board. The rts intake has been proven to make lower power than a stock intake. And the street version of their intake I don't believe exists. I've never seen anyone buy the str version and post results. Mmr is afraid of that question as well. And trust me people have asked about the street version.

+1

Their RTS intake uses 5" runners which we all know do you no good below 7500rpm and make for a torqueless motor. They look great and probably perform great under heavy boost but for n/a they are just an anchor holding the motor back.

 

[Mystic SVT]

A handheld is overrated with bolt ons.

Like they said, cams shortrunner intake, 4.10s will get you moving. If you are serious about power go with a boss block and a stroker. Or spin a big bore to the moon on a stock stroke.

Big Bore with 11:1 compression, comp cams 106400s, 03-04 C-heads, sullivan intake, carb, 1-3/4" lts, 7500-8000rpm and you will have a very stout 400+hp motor.