I am going to go with the additional items, do it right the first time. I wasn't exactly sure where to tap the fuel for the nitrous fuel solenoid though since I have aftermarket rails with no shrader valves.
I'd do a bigger shot, my engine could take it, but I bet I will get belt slip. An 8 rib conversion would be needed. I honestly don't feel personally ready for more than 550 RWHP. I need to learn the car better.
However, I will be buying all the gear with this weeks coming paycheck. I will have installed shortly after, granted, I won't see a tune until April. So it will be a minute until I am spraying.
Why a bottle warmer is a necessity. If your bottle pressure is too low, your nitrous system tune up will be pig fat and you'll have less than desired results. If bottle pressure is to high, you may run lean. Ideally you want to run your bottle pressure around 900-1000psi. The hard part is getting that bottle up to the correct pressure and maintaining it there for your run. Ideally you want to avoid nitrous pressure droppping below 750-800psi during a pass to avoid the liquid nitrous turning to a gas.The warmer and purge are not necessary but definitely nice additions.
Why a bottle warmer is a necessity. If your bottle pressure is too low, your nitrous system tune up will be pig fat and have less than desired results. If bottle pressure is to high, you may run lean. Ideally you want to run your bottle pressure around 900-1000psi. The hard part is getting that bottle up to the correct pressure and maintaining it there for during the run. Ideally you want to avoid your nitrous pressure droppping below 750-800psi during a pass to avoid the liquid nitrous turning to a gas.
Not an absolute need but the purge kit will purge air from your line for immediate activation of your Nitrous system and it looks badass when you purge.
To further explore my current dilemma, any input would be appreciated.
Just use a t off the feed it will be easiest way
Why a bottle warmer is a necessity. If your bottle pressure is too low, your nitrous system tune up will be pig fat and have less than desired results. If bottle pressure is to high, you may run lean. Ideally you want to run your bottle pressure around 900-1000psi. The hard part is getting that bottle up to the correct pressure and maintaining it there for during the run. Ideally you want to avoid your nitrous pressure droppping below 750-800psi during a pass to avoid the liquid nitrous turning to a gas.
Not an absolute need but the purge kit will purge air from your line for immediate activation of your Nitrous system and it looks badass when you purge.
I can't use a tee so simply. I have all braided high pressure line. And the nitrous lines are different AN sizes than the braided lines and regulator.
Their plates are sexy but expensive. I have always been curious about the blower/nos mix and especially so since I now have a blower.
I have been needing a adjustable fuel pressure regulator for a while and recently found a good deal on an accufab model. It has an additional spot on the side that could be used for a gauge or to feed the NOS lines
Well it's going to happen, I will absolutely get numbers and sheets. From what I understand with a re-tune for my elevation/humidity/N20 my numbers should go from 440 HP/355 TQ to about 460 HP/400 TQ and with N20 somewhere near 520 HP/480 TQ. But I hate guessing dyno numbers...
I think you are really going to surprise yourself with the tq you pick up. I think you'll be a good bit over 480