Need a new battery cable but which one?

bennylava

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Hi all, I need a new negative battery cable for my 1994 GT. Looks like ford decided to integrate a couple of other ground wires into the OEM cable. This makes it a bit hard to locate a suitable replacement.

Anyone happen to know if somewhere still sells the original? And if not, what is the proper length so I can find a substitute? Thank you
 

Rod

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Take the old one off and take it down to a parts house and compare what they have. You should be able to fine one with auxiliary grounds built in. Make sure to get per built cables and not use the bolt/clamp on style ends. If you need to build it make sure to use crimp style ends and use the correct plyers to do the crimp, then solder it well & use shrink tube to cover it.
 
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bennylava

bennylava

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Thanks for the replies!

But ugh, I think I'll just wait until I do an engine swap. The car is a garage queen anyway. Sounds like a lot of trouble for an engine I don't want anymore anyway. I was just thinking it would be nice if the car would move around the driveway easily.

What to do with an old 94 302 engine? I can't see any use for them other than being a boat anchor. They're so outclassed nowadays. They split in half at power numbers that newer engines come with, stock.

That's pretty damning. I mean what else do you keep them for... a museum piece? I'm sure someone else has that covered.
 

ttocs

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are all the grounds bad or just a couple? I mean it is not a big deal to make an easy/short term ground to get it around till you do swap the engine.

If you do wait till you swap the engine I found it both easier and a good idea to make my chassis to motor ground by using the one of the bolts that holds the start on. Now if you have longtubes obviously that will make it harder to access but I know with my shorties it is both easy to access and out of the way. On top of that the starter itself pulls more current while cranking than any other part of the car so having the ground closest to it only makes sense imo. I moved my battery to the trunk so I actually welded some studs to a piece of sheet metal, then welded that to the floor of my trunk to ensure a solid and short connection there.
 

duh09

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Thanks for the replies!

But ugh, I think I'll just wait until I do an engine swap. The car is a garage queen anyway. Sounds like a lot of trouble for an engine I don't want anymore anyway. I was just thinking it would be nice if the car would move around the driveway easily.

What to do with an old 94 302 engine? I can't see any use for them other than being a boat anchor. They're so outclassed nowadays. They split in half at power numbers that newer engines come with, stock.

That's pretty damning. I mean what else do you keep them for... a museum piece? I'm sure someone else has that covered.


Don't buy into the 500hp block splitting bologna. Does it happen? Sure, but no where near as frequently as the internet would have you believe.

Keep your stuff halfass balanced and run modern tuning stuff with a proper tune and ye olde 302 will do wonders.


EDIT: I guess it would help if I provided some actual info about the problem at hand. The shitty clamp down battery ends will work in a pinch to get it going, but they suck long term. I have one on my Cobra, it's been fine, just gotta readjust every now and then. There's a couple "better" options if you want to keep it simple. I used the Standard BP28 on some of our trucks. The end are bulky, but they've got space to clamp a wire on 3 sides and the 4 bolts work great to toss an eyelet on the smaller wires and keep it together. They're super bulky though and I'm not positive you'd have good clearance under the hood with them. I've moved over to used the Standard BP36N and BP36P (negative and positive) which are the "military" style ends for some builds. They have a solid bolt that runs through it, and then you'd just need to crimp or solder some eyelets on the wires you need to attach. If you put the flats of bigger wires against one another, you could technically run up to 4 large wires on one connector. They sit much more flat than the BP28 sets. I like them a lot on the Jeeps for running the typical power and grounds and also having good mounts for winch power cables.

I'll end up building new power and ground cables when I get closer to completing the motor work on my car. I haven't decided whether I'm going to go full on crimped ends of if I'm going to dig around for some of the high end audio connectors and use ferrules to keep it nice. We'll see.
 
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Musturd

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Like others have said they don’t just split . It’s usually bad tunes , detonation mixed with mediocre fuel . The 302 I just took out of my car was boosted since 2006 and made north of 500 for years . Sure a coyote is a far better option but you can make 550-600 wheel on a stock block and have them live for a long time .
 

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