Need a wiring guru!

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FivepointSlow

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Remind me to never go outside at 10PM without a hoodie.. Holy balls it's like 5 degrees out lol
Speaker hooked directly to head unit works.. I will check the driver door speaker and make sure I hooked it up right, there are 2 sets of connections on my Duals. 1 for audio and 1 for the stupid blue LED lighting in the speaker... Look exactly the same, I might have hooked up the audio portion to the LED lights but you'd think the power coming in for the audio would power the lights to the beat of the audio..
[video=youtube;b6Piq-UKhK8]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b6Piq-UKhK8[/video]

Whats the basics for a test light? I can probably put one together at school if it's as simple as I think it is.
 

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Does the blower motor for the HVAC work when the key is in the run position?
 

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Your car has either the premium or mach system in it. I can't see the tweeters by the mirrors(I asked earlier) but at the right time I can see the amp below the radio(The octagonal metal box with all the holes in it). Look directly to the passenger/inside of the consol and you will se a 8 pin hrn plugged into another 8 pin hrns. Disconnect them and use the make side as your speaker hrns - problem solved.
 
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Does the blower motor for the HVAC work when the key is in the run position?

OMG I completely forgot about that problem.. That was the first problem I discovered when I got the car!

HVAC is funky. In any position, high or low, mix, max A/C, floor, etc, doesn't matter what its set to, if it's not in the off position it blows through the defroster vents only.

However to answer your question... Yes it gets power when the key is turned.. If I put it on and turn off the key it turns off.
 
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take 2 - DOES THE CAR HAVE THE MACH SYSTEM IN IT? Are there tweeters by the mirrors? IS there an octagonal metal box under the radio with a bunch of holes in it.

There is no board in a fuse box that you can blow.

Oh shit my bad didn't see your first post.

Yes it has the Mach 460 system. There is a box under the head unit area. The car had 1 tweeter in it, I popped it out and put the triangle covers there as I don't feel the need to have tweeters and I don't want to search for a passenger side one.
 

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I just edited that post you quoted. Ignore it. I can't tell in the vid did you use an aftermarket hrns to plug into the stock wiring? If so find the amp turn on wire in it and connect it to the remote turn on wire on the deck, or the ignition wire in the hrns.
 
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Your car has either the premium or mach system in it. I can't see the tweeters by the mirrors(I asked earlier) but at the right time I can see the amp below the radio(The octagonal metal box with all the holes in it). Look directly to the passenger/inside of the consol and you will se a 8 pin hrn plugged into another 8 pin hrns. Disconnect them and use the make side as your speaker hrns - problem solved.

Do you think it's the amp that's bad? what good does the amp do anyways if I can bypass it like that?? lol
 

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OMG I completely forgot about that problem.. That was the first problem I discovered when I got the car!

HVAC is funky. In any position, high or low, mix, max A/C, floor, etc, doesn't matter what its set to, if it's not in the off position it blows through the defroster vents only.

Well, that's not an electrical issue as the paddle that changes the direction of the air flow is controlled by vaccum.

However to answer your question... Yes it gets power when the key is turned.. If I put it on and turn off the key it turns off.

I'd still gamble that the issue lies in the column. There's a lot of threads out there from people who have had issues similar to yours (where a bunch of electronics go out at once, and the fuses are all fine) and it usually turns out to be something to do with the ignition switch.
 
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I just edited that post you quoted. Ignore it. I can't tell in the vid did you use an aftermarket hrns to plug into the stock wiring? If so find the amp turn on wire in it and connect it to the remote turn on wire on the deck, or the ignition wire in the hrns.
I spliced the harness that came with the head unit into the stock harness.. PO snipped off the harness connector for the OEM harness.

Also, ignition switch. What is that involve replacing? Cylinder is brand new... What's in the steering column that could go out?

:deeplist: I'm sorry for all the confusion and what not, wiring is NOT my thing. And of course I picked the car with half the electronics not working... LOL
 

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Oh and maybe you need to replace the door lock switches.. I need to replace my passenger side one. When I got the car it worked for a little while... And it kept getting worse, and as of a few days ago, no longer works!
 

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the problem with your heater/ac only blowing through the defrost vents is because of the vac line going to the door is broken. Common place is right behind the motor on the firewall. Go to the pass side firewall and you will see two coolant lines go into the pass area as well as a vac line. More then likely it is broken and hanging loose behind the intake all you need is a coupler to connect them($.79) and it should work.
 

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ignition switch is super easy to replace and not that expensive. You can get it rekeyed at a locksmith so it will use the same key as the door still. Insert the key and turn to the run position and then there is a hole under the steering column you stick a small screwdriver/pick and push a small metal button that releases the ignition cylinder. Push it and then pull out on the key.
 

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if you cut the stock hrns then you will need to find the amp turn on. It should show up as a ground to a meter/test light and if you put 12v on it it will turn the amps on and probably make a popping noise through the speakers.
 
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FivepointSlow

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ignition switch is super easy to replace and not that expensive. You can get it rekeyed at a locksmith so it will use the same key as the door still. Insert the key and turn to the run position and then there is a hole under the steering column you stick a small screwdriver/pick and push a small metal button that releases the ignition cylinder. Push it and then pull out on the key.

Thats what is brand new though...
I actually just got a new set of locks from AM because of my broken door lock so I'll be switching the doors and ignition out again anyways but with my OEM ignition cylinder I had these same issues.
 
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If [MENTION=11138]joekd[/MENTION] happens to have a test light and some spare time on Sunday that's be awesome :D lol
 

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you can pick up a cheap volt meter for less then $10 at harbor freight and I have seen test lights for as little as $5 at autoparts stores. They are a must have for any tool box imo.

I just dug out my mustang bible for another problem and saw there is a whole troubleshooting section for the heater/ac. If fixing the broken line doesn't fix it we can start on it.
 

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