Need a wiring guru!

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FivepointSlow

FivepointSlow

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you can pick up a cheap volt meter for less then $10 at harbor freight and I have seen test lights for as little as $5 at autoparts stores. They are a must have for any tool box imo.

I just dug out my mustang bible for another problem and saw there is a whole troubleshooting section for the heater/ac. If fixing the broken line doesn't fix it we can start on it.
I'll poke around at it tomorroww.. Won't be home til like 5 and motivation in the dark and cold will be low but I'll update after I take a look at it.

I'll also look for a test light at advanced auto while I'm there.
 

joekd

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I have a couple meters, even if I am not around to help you can borrow one

I should also have a spare head unit if needed to test with
 

RichV

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You said you had a $25 gift card, that's what I meant.

When I was your age, going to the JY for parts, my toolbox was full of fuses and lightbulbs on the way out. :)
 
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FivepointSlow

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My head unit is fine as far as I know. Put audio to the speaker hooked up directly so I doubt that's the problem. I'll let you know if i need to borrow that meter... I'll probably need it to figure out the locks and windows.


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FivepointSlow

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Yea I'll put those off til Sunday when I'm free. When I get home today I'll take a quick look at the vac line by the fire wall and focus on my speakers... It is possible that my rears a both just blown. I haven't even looked at them that much I just know there's speakers back there. However the fronts I know a functional speakers and are what's really bugging me.
I have an additional set of speakers I'm going to want to put in the rear I got from Joe. Way better than whatever's there now. [MENTION=17616]the5.ohh[/MENTION] I know you replaced your rear speakers. Best way to get to them? I think that panel back there pops up but I'm not sure?


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the5.ohh

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Yea I'll put those off til Sunday when I'm free. When I get home today I'll take a quick look at the vac line by the fire wall and focus on my speakers... It is possible that my rears a both just blown. I haven't even looked at them that much I just know there's speakers back there. However the fronts I know a functional speakers and are what's really bugging me.
I have an additional set of speakers I'm going to want to put in the rear I got from Joe. Way better than whatever's there now. the5.ohh I know you replaced your rear speakers. Best way to get to them? I think that panel back there pops up but I'm not sure?


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Way I did it was. Pop the speaker grilles off with a small flathead. Than IIRC fold the rear seats down. And you'll see some bolts around the perimeter of where the seats lock in place. Take those out and than you should be able to take out the top rear deck. Than you'll just see the 2 speakers and metal in which they sit on. Theres 4 screws that hold each speaker in, the ones closest to the windshield are a pain in the ass to take out, so if you have a tiny phillips screwdriver use that. Put the stuff back on and finito.
 
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FivepointSlow

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Sweet thanks. I have a Phillips head screw driver that is shaped like an Allen wrench so those screws shouldn't be much of a pain.


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If you have the mach system the speakers are mounted from the bottom into the mach enclosure. You will need to remove the amps on the end and you will see the bolts under them as well as the ones that are in the holes in the middle of the enclosure.

I also forgot to notice that you replaced your front speakers which means you will need to bypass the amp for them. Good news is that its easy too do....
 

the5.ohh

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Ahh forgot about the Mach amps.. Previous owners removed them from mine. Car came with a spare rear deck (original with the mach crap on it)
 
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FivepointSlow

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I also forgot to notice that you replaced your front speakers which means you will need to bypass the amp for them. Good news is that its easy too do....

How does one do that? And why does the amp need to be bypassed when the speakers are replaced??


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the5.ohh

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:nono:

The Mach 460 and 1000 systems weren't bad for our car's era.

LOL that smiley. No they definitely weren't crap by any means. I never had the Mach amps in mine so I couldn't be a fair judge. But it sounded decent. I'm an audio nut so I get picky. And when I wrote crap I meant like all the extra stuff. Like i got my new radiator and all the other crap (hoses, tstat etc lol)
 

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You will need to bypass the amp because you took out an 8 ohm woofer and replaced it with a 4 ohm full range driver. The amp will only send you speaker bass and really bad bass with the impedence being different. its easy too do let me find my pics with cardomain as f'd up as it is now.
 
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FivepointSlow

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Oh I see. I got the car with no speakers in the door so I didn't know what was there before. I might go out and screw around with the speaker stuff later as I just got home but will probable be pushing this stuff off until tomorrow. lol.
 
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FivepointSlow

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Little update.

Took the speaker off the driver door and double checked the connections. Turns out I DID have it hooked to the LEDs instead of the audio input.. However upon switching them Nothing happened.

Didn't get into the rear speakers yet.

Popped off the window switches on the drivers side out of curiosity, tried switching them and stuff nothing worked... HOWEVER I did manage to accidentally short it while removing the switch with the blade of a screw driver, few sparks flew, but no fuse was blown. Good news is there is power getting to the switches. Bad news is that means it's a motor or the switches. I'm going to grab the switches off Josh's car when I go up to Dez on Saturday and I will see if they are the problem. I did notice that there is a extra harness on my doors that is not being used. I beleive this is for a box for the 1 touch function on the windows... I am not sure. The door panels I have don't have that box in them, could this module being missing prevent the windows from working? Is there a way to bypass the module? I really don't care for 1 touch down if it means I have to go hunting for a buy the modules. I'd like to just bypass it if thats possible.

Did not get a chance to check my Vac line by the firewall, will be doing that tomorrow. I'll have an hour after school to play with the car.

Today is a good day for the door locks... Both the drivers side and passenger side decided to work today.

Replaced ALL of my interior fuses, all of my small engine bay fuses, and I put in my missing #6 and #16 Maxi fuses that where missing. Checked all the other maxi fuses visually and used my fuse tester. All are good.

So we now know:
Fuses can now be crossed off the list

Speakers - Power is leaving head unit and producing sound, audio is not making it to the speakers via normal routing. Possibly need to bypass the amp. Also need to check wiring for head unit. There is a single black and single blue wire from the stock side of the harness, I'm assuming one of these is the amp turn on or whatever it's called wire, What do I need to connect it to? This may fix speaker problem..

Windshield wipers - Power gets to module, makes clicking sounds

Door locks - More than likely the switches, will replace on Sunday to test. They are always getting power so the switches must be going out.

Power windows - black box behind door panel is missing, harness is in door and not connected. May cause the windows to not receive power. Is there a way to bypass this box?

HVAC - Turns out it only works on high setting and NOT low or any inbetween, also only blows through defrosters... Will check Vac line by pass side firewall tomorrow.
 
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FivepointSlow

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yup.
ts69-1000x1000.jpg

Honestly didn't even know they had them until I took them out of the box and saw 2 sets of connections that looked exactly the same. lol
 

SVTstang96

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Here is some good news for you. Dont quote me 100% on the one touch module but I seem to remember once when messing with my door panels I forgot to reconnect it and none of the windows worked. As far as bypassing it goes I think you can just jump the 2 wires. I will look through my wiring diagram, and if your lucky I might have a harness I cut off a previous car that I can create a dummy module from so you dont have to splice anything, just plug it in like the module would and go from there. I also have a module which is for sale if you would want one down the road. The amp issue I too have encountered before. I had very fuzzy sounds and only some speakers working when I first got my car. Well come to find out they were routing it through the module. I would recommend bypassing it all together and selling it since you wont need it with an aftermarket stereo. You can also remove your rear Mach 460 amps as well if you have not done that already. I would be interested in purchasing them also if you want to sell them. (gives you a bit of money to stick into other issues). If you want the speaker wire colors coming from the amp I can get those for you also. I would just wire these directly to the head unit and bypass the amp all together.
 
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FivepointSlow

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Here is some good news for you. Dont quote me 100% on the one touch module but I seem to remember once when messing with my door panels I forgot to reconnect it and none of the windows worked. As far as bypassing it goes I think you can just jump the 2 wires. I will look through my wiring diagram, and if your lucky I might have a harness I cut off a previous car that I can create a dummy module from so you dont have to splice anything, just plug it in like the module would and go from there. I also have a module which is for sale if you would want one down the road. The amp issue I too have encountered before. I had very fuzzy sounds and only some speakers working when I first got my car. Well come to find out they were routing it through the module. I would recommend bypassing it all together and selling it since you wont need it with an aftermarket stereo. You can also remove your rear Mach 460 amps as well if you have not done that already. I would be interested in purchasing them also if you want to sell them. (gives you a bit of money to stick into other issues). If you want the speaker wire colors coming from the amp I can get those for you also. I would just wire these directly to the head unit and bypass the amp all together.

Yea Idk what I have in the back, but I'll pull and sell you the amp if you want it.

If you can do up a little how-to for me for bypassing the window module and the amp that'd be awesome. Just need to know which wires I'm jumping together for the windows and what wires I need to splice together for the amp bypass
 

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