Need advice on home low/mid rise lifts

Werecow

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Now that's something we can all agree on! Yeh sometimes you can get a better deal on this or that but safety is the most important when it comes to something you're gnna work under.. I don't have a lift but I do use crib blocks as safety supports and will be taking advice passed on here and will be getting some cast off wheels to use for safety in the future. As long as what you get has the proper safety features, like locks or stops to hold position instead of relying on the cylinder pressure to hold it up that's what you need to look for. Seals can let go, hoses can burst or blow out. It needs a mechanical system to lock the lift in place.
 
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PinkieT

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Now that's something we can all agree on! Yeh sometimes you can get a better deal on this or that but safety is the most important when it comes to something you're gnna work under.. I don't have a lift but I do use crib blocks as safety supports and will be taking advice passed on here and will be getting some cast off wheels to use for safety in the future. As long as what you get has the proper safety features, like locks or stops to hold position instead of relying on the cylinder pressure to hold it up that's what you need to look for. Seals can let go, hoses can burst or blow out. It needs a mechanical system to lock the lift in place.

Being that I'm a retired insurance company safety/loss control rep with a CSP (look it up) I am all for doing things safely. The Bendpack site says:
"The enhanced BL-5000SLX features dual-position automatic safety locks that engage automatically as the lift rises. A quick flip of the lock bar disengages the safeties for a smooth hands-free descent."
 

Boostr1

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I've read too many bad experiences with the Quick Jack type jacks with the vehicle tetering forward or backwards. I would go with the Quick Lift out of the 2
 
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PinkieT

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rotary 1.jpg
OK, found a used Rotary 6,000 lb. lift in my budget. Takes 110v. Anybody familiar with these? Pic is the one for sale. I can't find one of it in the air. Seller is asking $500 and says it works. What do you guys think?
 

Werecow

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I think before I'd consider it id have to see it in action.,.. IE, can the owner put a car in it and lift it to demonstrate the workable of it? If they can do that and you'd feel comfortable getting under it then that's for you consideration.. If they won't I'd pass right then.,
 

delling3

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What is your plan for installing the headers? My understanding is that it requires dropping the K-member, or lifting the motor. Dropping the K member is supposed to be far easier. The Kwik Lift looks like a great piece of kit, but would not allow for dropping the K member.
 
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PinkieT

PinkieT

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What is your plan for installing the headers? My understanding is that it requires dropping the K-member, or lifting the motor. Dropping the K member is supposed to be far easier. The Kwik Lift looks like a great piece of kit, but would not allow for dropping the K member.

Yep, if I go the Kwik Lift route I would unbolt the motor mounts and find a way to lift it just enough to wiggle the shorties in. It would be perfect for the subframe connector install, tho. Maybe I need two lifts???? :p:p:p:p:p
 
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PinkieT

PinkieT

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sub frame connector install needs the suspension loaded, wheels on the ground.

Yep, I know. The red drive on ramp type Kwik Lift would be better for that. Wondering if I could redneck engineer a solution if I get a lift that works on the rockers - lift it up high enough to work on, drop the tires onto heavy timers so it simulates being on the ground.
 

Steve-Oh

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Kwik Lift works but it’s so annoying to use. I would always get the jack stuck under my car because it was “low” when trying to use the jack bar. Ended up getting rid of it and getting a four post lift.

The other one you posted recently, the used one, probably needs a good deal of TLC but I would trust that (after rebuilding it ) over those Costco lifts. Just keep in mind what you plan to do with it because you won’t be able to much underneath with the lift structure under the car.
 

ttocs

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Yep, I know. The red drive on ramp type Kwik Lift would be better for that. Wondering if I could redneck engineer a solution if I get a lift that works on the rockers - lift it up high enough to work on, drop the tires onto heavy timers so it simulates being on the ground.
I think even if you get your wheels on the ground that access to the area for sub frame connectors would be limited pretty badly.
 

Werecow

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One way to do it if your a lil short on $$ and you wanna do your subframe connectors is to just get 2 sets of those plastic ramps then jack it up and put the ramps under your tires, if you need a lil more clearance put a few 2x8's cut to size on top of the ramps under your tires... All 4 tires are loaded and you can get under it safely..IMG_20201001_173958124.jpg
Something similar to this all the way around.. yeh I need better wood, but you get the drift..
 

ttocs

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One way to do it if your a lil short on $$ and you wanna do your subframe connectors is to just get 2 sets of those plastic ramps then jack it up and put the ramps under your tires, if you need a lil more clearance put a few 2x8's cut to size on top of the ramps under your tires... All 4 tires are loaded and you can get under it safely..View attachment 7361
Something similar to this all the way around.. yeh I need better wood, but you get the drift..
and then you get to lay in the sparks as they reign down on you. I mean you should just set yourself on fire before you start welding.
 

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