Need advice on stroker motor for 10psi blower!

Green 94 331

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i have a rotating assembly in my motor good for about 800hp and it is stuffed in a block with a breaking point of about 500hp. i couldnt justify the extrak 3k or so for the dart block beyond what i was already spending on a car that wasnt going to see much track time if any at all. i wanted the best i could get within the budget i was willing to reach and that happened to be a top notch rotating assembly in a weak production block. the route you should take all depends on your hp goals as well as your budget for the project. i will be making well over 500whp on a very coservtive tune in a car i will put maybe 2000 miles on a year. my bet is that the motor even exceeding the mechanical limits of the block will last a good amount of time at that rate.
 

ryclef331

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Stopsign32v said:
ryclef331 said:
I'm not saying put ALL forged internals in there. Just some pistons and rods worth a shit. He knows the power limits of a stock block. A blower spinning on a H/C/I 306 isn't going to have to throw out much boost to come close to that limit so I think the stress on the crank shaft is a null and void at that low of a boost number...provided you don't CRANK the FUCK out of the tension setup. I don't see him getting greedy with the power numbers. We both know what will work but I think we just have different ways we'd go about it. I'd spend a couple more bucks for the added insurance.

I don't know anyone who doesn't get greedy with power numbers. Obviously he is now and I doubt it will take long for him to get used to 450rwhp. But I guess he will live and learn. :ass3: If he is going to change the pistons and he only wants 450rwhp I'd DEFINATELY go with high compression pistons. 10.1 sounds good to me with a blower.


Btw what is your combo? I've always liked your orange car and your time slip isn't bad either. What are you running? Looks sweet

Thanks for the comments....I actually did exactly what I SHOULD have. Threw a FORGED Stroker AND a Power adder on a stock block.

As of right now, its a forged 331 with 10.23:1 compression, afr 185s, and I'm swapping to a victor 5.0 intake right now. I'm going to for 11's on motor. I've finally got the time to really start to tune this suspension. When I'm done with my intake swap, going BACK to the dyno, and then off the track again. As long as I can nail 11's on motor, I'm going to follow it up with a 150shot and hope for some mid to high tens. Again, this is all hopes and dreams. The motor is backed by a G-Force T-5 and a built 8.8. I've been looking for a good cheap 351 block to start a budget 393 EFI motor to have waiting on the side when this motor lets go. So far its holding up well.

AGAIN though...YEAH I bought a Full forged 800hp bottom end into a block thats only worth 500. DUMB! If I had to do it over, I would have just done a 306 a high winding 306 and more spray (I AM a nitrous guy...I don't mind filling bottles) OR paid the dough to built it with a DART.
 

Maniak87

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i think it would be worht it to wait untill you can afford an aftermarket block. even though yor goal is only 400-450rwhp, after a while, you always want MORE!! if you have an aftermarket block there is no need to worry about it. thow the blower on your current motor if your compression test is good to hold you over untill you can afford the block.
 

ryclef331

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You'll be looking for 5.0 (302) H.O. Roller Cams. H.O. is key b/c I believe the firing order is different.
 
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ICEMAN330824

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OK. THANKS. IM GOING TO GET A CUSTOM ROLLER CAM MADE. SO I GUESS YOUR ANSWER IS YESTO MY 302 BEING A ROLLER BLOCK. THANKS MAN
 

shakeeb_33

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ICEMAN330824 said:
ryclef331 said:
When I first got my motor in the car and took it to the dyno...with out a chip and just fuel pressure and timing adjustments, we made 317hp and 377lbft of tq. this was with an upported lower performer intake (restrictive!). Numbers were still low...even for that. I suspected the cam. Well, after looking at the cam specs and the dyno sheets...it wasn't adding up. We found the car was going into valve float at 4,800rpm. Tore the valve train apart. The valvesprings had low...and I mean LOW seat pressure 70-80lbs closed....it should be 130-140 with the cam I'm running. Well, we redid the heads, and right now I'm swapping to a victor intake. This should REALLY wake the motor up. I just went to my local tuner the other night to pick up some parts. He dyno'd a fox with a 347 (not alot of cubic inch difference) with the same 185s, systemax intake, and a comp cams xe cam. UNTUNED FIRST PULL, 368hp to the wheels on motor with 350lbft tq. I didn't stick around for the final numbers but I'm sure they came up.

The combo you want to build on a 306 WILL be stout so long as the cam is right for it. There is absolutely no reason you can't make 330-340 rwhp on motor alone. Throw 10lbs of boost at it, it should get up to the levels you want....NO problem. Get a reputable blower (Novi2000, S-Trim, or ProCharger) for it that can support all you want and THEN some. And remember, if 10lbs doesn't get you there....you can up the boost but I doubt you'd need to. I know of guys with stock rods, crank, forged pistons, ARP hardware, H/C/I, and 13lbs of boost.....565hp on pump gas all day. Stock = borrowed time but IT CAN BE DONE. I can't tell you enough that if you're going to stroke and power add, GET A DIFFERENT BLOCK. You'll hate yourself for not doing it. 5lbs of boost on a blower that can support WAY more than that is a waste of money, in my book.

THANKS FOR THE INFO BRO!!! O0
Exactly ;)
 
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ICEMAN330824

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SOLD BLOWER IN LESS THAN 24HRS. Now going turbo! T70 w/ .68 a/r. w/ a 306. Details will be forthcoming in another post ill make shrotly! :banana: O0
 

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