Need Assistance In Identifying Two Different Steering Noises

MyLittlePony

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When I turn the wheel to the left, it makes a binding noise, which sounds like its coming from outside, on the front drivers side. When I turn the wheel to the right, I will hear a loud “GONK!” sound one to four times from the front passenger side, depending on how much I am allowed to turn. This is most noticeable backing out of a parking spot, or pulling in, but the “GONK” noise is a little disturbing if making a sharp right turn onto an intersecting street.

I’ve looked inside the engine bay to see if I could see anything, and I stuck my head as far as I could get it on the floor, but I don’t want to go through the trouble of jacking up the car, when I know I’ll just have to do it again to replace parts. This problem all started after the car rolled over 199k miles. It started first with the left turn binding and a week later, the right turn “gonk.”

I originally checked the power steering pump. It seemed like it could use some more fluid. I didn’t have to add much to get a level reading from it though. The power steering pump was replaced at around 168-170k miles back in 2009 or early 2010. The reason was due to the reservoir being completely empty, and not holding new fluid well. That’s why my mind went there first. Topping off fluid did not alter the sound. And steering performance remained the same both before the noise, topping off, and after. I know what the car feels like without power steering. It’s scary and not fun, but I still felt like checking anyway.

Is this car safe to drive? I still drive it about 150 miles a month, but several times weekly, sometimes spiritedly. I want to have this fixed before rolling over 200k, but at the same time, I want to make sure it can even make it to that milestone. Given what can be heard in the video, would you drive the car? Would you allow your spouse?
 

ttocs

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I would almost suspect the ball joints or something suspension related myself. It sounds like something is under tension as you move.
 

cobrajeff96

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It's unfortunately one of those things that could be any one thing or a combination of things in the front suspension system. But by far the easiest thing you can do is just simply jack the front half of the car up, set it on a couple jackstands just enough to fully unload the front wheels (only need about an inch or two between tire and ground), and just start man-handling the wheels with two hands. It may be easier to do this with the steering wheel locked (key removed).

Hands at 12 and 6 o'clock positions, alternate by pushing the wheel away from you and then rapidly pull toward you. Sometimes you may need a second set of eyes. If you see any movement, that usually indicates a cooked wheel bearing. Hands at 9 and 3, same movement, usually indicates play in the steering system and a second set of eyes is probably mandatory to pinpoint the play visually.

With wheels still at full droop, and car on jackstands, you can take the jack and just barely put pressure on the bottom of the tire while keeping an eye on the strut mount. Watch for movement (there should be zero movement). If there is, depending on what exact setup, this usually indicates the top strut mounting is cooked. You can also do this while someone watches the lower ball joint. Another test of the ball joint is to just simply unlock the steering wheel and start turning it.

And of course there are control arm bushings of which their condition can be observed by simply wedging in a pray bar of some sort and just start leveraging on it to check for play. Some play might be evident on OEM rubber bushings which may be acceptable, you just have to use your best judgment.

There may be other tests, but that's what I got off the top of my skull.
 

weendoggy

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I'm thinking like Rau03...rack, tie rods or even rag joint if you still have that. The least of your worries is jacking it up twice. I'd want to find the problem before letting me, spouse or anyone else drive.
 

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