Need help/advice: steering shaft reinstall -Completed

Daryl · Oct 16, 2025

I can’t seem to get these 2 back together:

I have all 4 bolts secured but can’t seem to finagle the steering column rod (?) back into the u-joint (?), buckle (?) or whatever it’s called! I’m SO close! The bolt that marries these two together is out, giving it the most chance of sliding back in. At least that’s what I would expect.

Any help …. my back (and I) thank you in advance!

Daryl · Oct 16, 2025

ie, the 4 bolts that hold the steering column in place

Daryl · Oct 16, 2025

I’d say I’m about 3/4” shy of butting together the steering column and the shaft. In the picture you can see the silver colored square rod inside the spring. I have it oriented at the proper angle to go into the steering shaft but it won’t slide in.

What’s the trick to sliding that rod into the shaft so I can put that bolt back in and clamp those two together??

cobrajeff96 · Oct 17, 2025

Correct me if I'm wrong, but you seem to have detached the 'upper' part of the U-joint from the column itself rather than disconnecting the shaft from the 'lower' part of the U-joint which is the way it really should have been done. Well, I've never detached the U-joint from the column, but I would think it is just the same in that the column's own internal shaft would have a notched section that the bolt lays into as an added anti-detachment feature just like every other bolted section along with the entire length of the steering linkage. Make sure the insertion depth is just right and you should be able to secure the bolt. Now, the main shaft is more of a D-shape. Maybe this upper portion integral to the column is the exact same and you'd need to rotate the U-joint (independently of both the main shaft and the steering column shaft!).

Daryl · Oct 17, 2025

No sir, I did not detach the U-joint. When I removed the steering column I unscrewed the bolt that goes into the U-joint. So now I’m trying to get that square-shaped “rod” to slide back into the U-joint which I will then secure into place with the bolt. Admittedly, I “briefly” considered it as an option but the correct side of my brain assured me that would surely end in a cluster f*ck, so I didn’t!

But the “D-shaped” info gives me hope! Maybe I’m 180* of a rotation off. I’ll better examine for that notch. Thanks Jeff! Fingers crossed and I’ll report back….
Cheers!

weendoggy · Oct 17, 2025

B-I-N-G-O! Rotation, rotation, rotation.

cobrajeff96 · Oct 17, 2025

The shaft itself should have a sort of keyway for that bolt to slide through which further strengthens everything once tightened down, which also further identifies correct alignment/orientation of the shaft into the u-joint. You really can't go wrong, it should be easy. You can also spray a little something on both sides of the union or wipe a little bit of anti-seize as maybe a bit of corrosion has built up depending on how long they've been sitting and the environment they are in (they're just bare metal).

95opal · Oct 17, 2025

Just be sure your wheel is centered lock to lock and your wheels are straight when you bolt it all back in.

Daryl · Oct 17, 2025

Ok, thx everyone. I’ll keep all that in mind.

I did notice the key way groove. Aligned it accordingly, but still couldn’t get the bolt the start threading even though it slid in a little further. Stripped a couple of threads trying so got another bolt. Wondering now if the column should not be bolted up at all so I can use leverage to jam it on as far as possible as the 4 locator bolts for the column have ZERO adjustability (even when loose)?

Also noticed that the ring inside (with steering wheel removed) where it reads “TOP” was at the bottom (0600). Maybe that’s where centering the wheel between lock-to-lock will remedy?

Will try again tomorrow. Had to go with my wife to her doctor appointment.

cobrajeff96 · Oct 18, 2025

The whole column assembly does have lateral play with those four studs (not bolts). You do know that the main shaft is telescoping, right? Not sure if you knew.

Maybe check for burrs on the end of the main shaft. Maybe it got dropped or just banged up by something else metal. Might just need a rat tail file on the edges to chamfer them down a bit.

Daryl · Oct 18, 2025

Did not know about the telescoping; do know about the lateral. All connecting surfaces are pristine. So will be back at it today.

I appreciate all the help, everyone. Sure helps… not only with the mechanical aspect but gives me encouragement and motivation to keep at it !

Thanks very much once again EVERYBODY for your help and patience with me. Cheers!

cobrajeff96 · Oct 18, 2025

Yes the four main studs for the column assembly allow for about 1/4" of lateral movement so that you can perfectly center the wheel when locking it all down. the main shaft has a top side telescoping action inside the cabin and so does the bottom half by the rack. They have to for proper engagement on both ends. Is is very difficult to get anything about it wrong. It just sucks working inside the car beneath the dash unless you have the seat removed.

Daryl · Oct 18, 2025

Well, “some” success! I got the new bolt in fine. But the “TOP” sign is at the bottom so the steering wheel will only fit on upside down. Wut???

Wheels are straight. Pics below…

Daryl · Oct 18, 2025

cobrajeff96 said:
Yes the four main studs for the column assembly allow for about 1/4" of lateral movement so that you can perfectly center the wheel when locking it all down. the main shaft has a top side telescoping action inside the cabin and so does the bottom half by the rack. They have to for proper engagement on both ends. Is is very difficult to get anything about it wrong. It just sucks working inside the car beneath the dash unless you have the seat removed.

I do have the seat removed… and it still sucks! But would be 100x worse with the seat in.

Any thoughts on why my steering wheel is oriented upside down?

cobrajeff96 · Oct 19, 2025

Are you talking about that clockspring?

Daryl · Oct 19, 2025

Yes, sir (didn’t know what it’s called!). It is oriented as pictured. And since there are slots on the OE wheel, it only goes on one way. Unfortunately, that is upside down:-(

Grabbing at straws here, but:

1. can the clock spring be removed and reinstalled so the wheel would be oriented correctly without affecting anything else?; or

2. Get a different wheel and lose the OE one with the ABS bag, etc? Or does that involve opening a whole other can of worms?

Daryl · Oct 19, 2025

Here’s a thought: should the ignition lock cylinder be in or out of the column throughout this? If “in”, in what position?

cobrajeff96 · Oct 19, 2025

First thing's first, disconnect the battery before you do anything else (if not already).

Leave everything attached as is right now.

Installed the steering wheel back onto the clock spring, you don't have to torque it down all the way, just make it real snug.

Leave the steering shaft disconnected.

Turn the wheel all the way to one side (slowly as the disconnected shaft will wobble as it rotates beneath the dash), and with the front wheels lifted off the ground then point the wheels to that same side (should be real easy with the shaft disconnected and wheels off ground).

This should take the ambiguity out of steering wheel/tire misalignment.

Then reconnect the shaft.

Use caution due to the clockspring not having any mechanical limit to it.

Daryl · Oct 19, 2025

cobrajeff96 said:
First thing's first, disconnect the battery before you do anything else (if not already).

Leave everything attached as is right now.

Installed the steering wheel back onto the clock spring, you don't have to torque it down all the way, just make it real snug.

Leave the steering shaft disconnected.

Turn the wheel all the way to one side (slowly as the disconnected shaft will wobble as it rotates beneath the dash), and with the front wheels lifted off the ground then point the wheels to that same side (should be real easy with the shaft disconnected and wheels off ground).

This should take the ambiguity out of steering wheel/tire misalignment.

Then reconnect the shaft.

Use caution due to the clock spring not having any mechanical limit to it.

1. Yes, the battery was the first thing I disconnected when I started this whole mess and it’s been disconnected ever since. Thankfully I remembered to do that!

2. I had a feeling I was going to need to get the front wheels off the ground. I have a low-profile jack that’ll do that no problem.

cobrajeff96 · Oct 19, 2025

Do you know how much that clock spring has moved since you started? It'd be a bit difficult to move it without the wheel attached. But see it helps to know because there's essentially a ribbon cable attached to it internally to provide signal continuity between cruise control switches and airbag down into their respective modules lower in the dash housing. The clock spring needs to correspond exactly with wheel position or else when you re-attach everything and you turn either way to full lock you could damage that ribbon cable and maybe make the airbags go boom.