Need help picking lowering parts

Discussion in 'Suspension and Brakes' started by Ballistic, Apr 27, 2015.

  1. Ballistic

    Ballistic Active Member

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    Just got new wheels, wanting to lower it now and i have never lowered a car, only lifted trucks before..

    Heres what im looking at now..

    SVE Tubular Rear Upper & Lower Control Arm Kit Black

    Doing the Control arm kit means i dont need to do quad shocks right?

    Not sure what springs to get, looking at the H & R springs and the Eibach i think 1.5" drop would be just about right this is my daily driver so dont want it too low.. And do i need Spring Isolators?

    Then for shocks/Strut Bilstein HD Series but open to other ideas

    Also what CC plates should i get?
    was looking at these two
    http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/JM-24213/1994-04-Mustang-J-M-Caster-Camber-Plates
    and
    http://www.latemodelrestoration.com...ximum-Motorsports-4-Bolt-Caster-Camber-Plates

    Am i missing anything? Any help is much appreciated thanks!




    [​IMG]
     
  2. 9838stang

    9838stang Well-Known Member

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    I have H&R ss springs on my car and love the ride. I used it as a daily for a couple years that way. I also have J&M lower control arms from AM. I also bought new rear spring isos since mine were shot and I reused my fronts. I also recommend a good set of shocks. If youre looking for a set at a decent price. I have tokico HP blues and had them in for 4.5 years no issues. I also have J&M cc places. If you're going to reuse your factory ball joints up front or factory replacements, I'd get J&M cc plates. I have them and when I was just on the H&Rs I was about 1.75 lowered up front, and 1.5 in the rear. But if you wanna go lower in the future I'd get MM I think the have a bit more adjustment.


    I have J&M cc plates, Steeda x2 with out the spacers(lowers it 1/4 of an inch more), ball joints, j&m upper and lower control arms, Comp. Engineering bump steer kit, H&R ss springs, and tokico HP blues,
     
  3. Ballistic

    Ballistic Active Member

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    I have not even thought about Ball joints.. While its all apart i might aswell just put new ball joints in, so the Steeda's X2 ball joints are pretty good?
     
  4. Ferocious

    Ferocious Legend SN95 Supporter

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    You can just get Moog ball joints for like $50. H&R super sports with isos, LCA's no quad shocks, and either of those CC plates will be just what you want for a daily. J&M has more camber adjustment, I know that much. You can't go wrong with either honestly.
     
  5. ElrodKTPQ_89

    ElrodKTPQ_89 Legend

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    I have the SVE arms and have been satisfied with them so far. However a friend has been trying to order a set for her car and LMR kept showing them out of stock, so they got a set from Summit and lo and behold they're the same arms, identical in appearance and packaging and same label on the box. I think they're even on sale from summit right now for like $125. I have Eibach Sportlines with no Iso's and Tokico blue shocks. No complaints with any of it.
     
  6. Ballistic

    Ballistic Active Member

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    So i think i got everything figured out expect the Strut and shocks

    H&R Super Sport Springs Coupe

    Prothane Frount and rear Isolators

    J&M Caster Camber Plates

    SVE Tubular Rear Upper & Lower Control Arm Kit Black


    Is there any advantage to getting the Moog ball joints over OEM ones or the Steeda X2 (Friend of mine owns a few ford dealerships so he gives me any parts at his cost)

    Yeah im sure the Lower Control Arms that LMR, AM, and all the others are made from the same factory.. Im just using LMR for reference at the moment
     
  7. Ferocious

    Ferocious Legend SN95 Supporter

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    I don't know the price of OEM ones but Moog are going for $30 each.

    5 out of 5 on amazon... you can read the reviews if you want. I've only heard good things about them and will be replacing mine in the upcoming months with moog.

    http://www.amazon.com/Moog-K8749-Ball-Joint/dp/B000C59ZW2
     
  8. 9838stang

    9838stang Well-Known Member

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    Moog and ford are pretty much the same. The Steeda ball joints have a tall surface and a spacer that goes on top of the spring. Basically keeping the drop the same, but not maxing out the amount of travel the ball joint has. If you are going with 1.5 lowering springs OEM will work just fine. I went with the Steeda ball joints because I wanted to lower my car a tiny bit more with out removing the isos and cutting the spring. I haven't had any issues running it this way for 2 years
     
  9. whiplash473

    whiplash473 Moderator Staff SN95 Supporter

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    When did you throw wheels on this thing?
     
  10. Caboose302

    Caboose302 Well-Known Member

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    Might want to look into Fox length struts if you're going 1.5" or more. They're shorter so they don't bottom out as much. With my old springs and my SN Tokico Blues they would bottom out all the time. I have H&R Supersports in now and haven't really noticed an issue. Just something to keep in the back of your mind. Also it would be a good idea to look into a good Bumpsteer Kit.
     
  11. Ballistic

    Ballistic Active Member

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    This Saturday will mark 2 weeks w/ Toyo Proxes T1 Sport. Im thinking down the road ill change the studs to Allen heads and some other color..

    [​IMG]

    I think im going to wait a few weeks then just order the bilsteins..

    Jeez they must think they are worth there weight in gold for those little things http://www.latemodelrestoration.com...tang-Steeda-Bumpsteer-Kit-Manual-Steering-Red
     
  12. OnyxCobra

    OnyxCobra Legend

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    I'm a huge MM fan so I'd suggest their camber plates. H&R SS springs are awesome. I'd skip aftermarket upper control arms and get OEM replacements if yours are shot, you may want to consider adjustable lowers for future flexibility.
     
  13. ElrodKTPQ_89

    ElrodKTPQ_89 Legend

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    Just curious why you recommend oem uppers instead of tubular? I got mine since the whole set of arms was cheaper than just a set of uppers to match the lowers I had at the time. Just never heard anyone say to stick with oem so I'm interested.
     
  14. OnyxCobra

    OnyxCobra Legend

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    In short keeping the rubber bushings reduce suspension binding and reduces the chance of damaging your chassis.
     
  15. Ballistic

    Ballistic Active Member

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    I had a friend get me a quote on the bilsteins and one of the workers said they are going to be a harder ride and more for track/drifting, i wasn't really believing it, any one else daily drive with bilsteins? Or shall i look else where?
     
  16. OnyxCobra

    OnyxCobra Legend

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    I've heard from others that Bilsteins are on the stiff side, but that's not to say they're too stiff. A lot has to do with who you ask, some people are a lot more tolerate of firm rides.
     
  17. Ballistic

    Ballistic Active Member

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    What about the

    [​IMG]

    vs

    [​IMG]
     
  18. Ferocious

    Ferocious Legend SN95 Supporter

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    ^ Going adjustable would be a good idea if you are worried about it being too stiff for a daily.
     
  19. Cpotts13

    Cpotts13 Well-Known Member

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    Hold the phone OP i have bilsteins with h&r supersports and SR cc plates, my past mustang I had h&r supersport with tokico blues and mm cc plates. With that being said I can provide some answers for your questions.

    Bilstein vs tokico blues?

    Bilstein hands down, the ride is so dang smooth its rediculous. With the tokicos I was bouncing all over the place, which equated to a terrible ride. BTW bilsteins don't come in a "fox body" specific length.

    the ever so loved MM cc plates vs other?

    One question... will you EVER run coilovers? if the answer is yes, mm cc plates it is (4th bolt hole required for coilovers). if the answer is no, despite what others think, go with SR cc plates. I got mine for $140 i believe and my car is perfectly aligned (h&r's without isolators).

    Isolators or no?

    Kind of a double edged question.. I had prothane isolators on my previous stang and after a bit they squeaked badly. I had to disassemble and re grease them, which btw is very inconvenient.. My current car I wrapped the dead coils of the springs with electrical tape, its been a year, 0 squeeks.

    Lower AND upper control arms?

    Like mention, just buy the lowers. Get the LMR kit if you want, as it is cheaper, and only use the bottoms.

    any questions feel free to ask.
     
  20. Cpotts13

    Cpotts13 Well-Known Member

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