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RAU03MACH

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You could also run a compression test to see if your rings
Are good or not or if any work on the top end will have to be done
 
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Normally when I pick a car up I go through it pretty good
If it were me I would get the tune up kit and a chain and gear set part of checking it over
I have not heard it run
I dont know how it runs
Its really a judgment call on your part
Its a start and it will tell you if you got to go further steps
I'll admit when I got the car and honestly until just a couple years ago I knew how to do brakes and oil changes and a couple other things, I wouldn't have been qualified to tell me if the car was good apart from the test drive, what I do know is my truck and that mustang have been strong and reliable for years, whatever is wrong with Ruby is new. Now that I have discovered that most of the things I was paying a mechanic around $300 in labor to do was ridiculous because it would have took very little time and effort had I took the time to learn and spent the money for the tools, which is where I am now, I'm getting the proper equipment and learning how to use it. As for Ruby would it help if I get a video of the engine running, I was planning on looking at the timing again as soon as the weather breaks, and again to everyone thank you for your help in my education, by the way is there an f150 forum.... I need wiring advice, it's nothing like the industrial electrical that I'm familiar with.
 

RAU03MACH

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If you have the manuals its pretty simple
Definitely try to get as much info in the manuals
It dose help
 
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If you have the manuals its pretty simple
Definitely try to get as much info in the manuals
It dose help
I don't and I can't find my specific diagram online took me forever to find the fues box diagrams
 

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I have the oem manual for 94/95. Its in the garage but I can get pics of it if you know what you need. Fusebox diagrams is no problem.
 
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I might, I have a few questions about the IAC first it's supposed to be open normally right? And I saw a video of a guy testing his directly from his battery, I also have some sort of voltage power supply tester that's supposed to be able to detect and supply the proper voltage to any dc device such as motors and stuff, well first off when I bench tested the iac directly from the battery.... I almost melted my test leads, second mine is closed, and will not open, when I bought it inside and tried with the other device it drops to 0 and doesn't do anything, so if I correct in my assumptions above I believe I'll be getting a new iac tomorrow
 

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if I am not mistaken the IAC is driven/moved with pulse width modified voltage meaning that it uses very short pulses of dc voltage to move it, not direct long time dc and by long time I mean like half a second.... If you hooked it directly to the battery and held it long enough to melt leads you might want to consider swapping it out.

The position of the IAC depends. When starting it should go to a point that is determined by the temp/pressure and then while the motor is running it stays at a set point until it detects the rpms drop.
 
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Yeah when it happened that occurred to me to, if it wasn't bad it most likely is now, but in the video they left theirs hooked up for awhile cause it was closing very slow, mine is closed and is not interested in opening, I'm wondering if this may have been part of the reason my ecu burned up. The gasket also didn't look sealed worth a crap, it had 4 dots of adhesive one by each screw and one over each inlet
 
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Yeah when it happened that occurred to me to, if it wasn't bad it most likely is now, but in the video they left theirs hooked up for awhile cause it was closing very slow, mine is closed and is not interested in opening, I'm wondering if this may have been part of the reason my ecu burned up. The gasket also didn't look sealed worth a crap, it had 4 dots of adhesive one by each screw and one over each inlet
Oh also when I checked for resistance (after I zapped it) it had almost none, and I think I read it's supposed to be around 7 to 14
 
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if I am not mistaken the IAC is driven/moved with pulse width modified voltage meaning that it uses very short pulses of dc voltage to move it, not direct long time dc and by long time I mean like half a second.... If you hooked it directly to the battery and held it long enough to melt leads you might want to consider swapping it out.

The position of the IAC depends. When starting it should go to a point that is determined by the temp/pressure and then while the motor is running it stays at a set point until it detects the rpms drop.
Well the IAC wasn't the problem or not all of it, now granted it isn't surging as bad now but I did fiddle with the timing a little (I'm positive what I did probably isn't why it's running a hair better) anyway it still smells like gas, it's surging a little, and I've tested it on with everything off and on with ac on, both in neutral holding the brake, when I turned the ac on it started surging, I checked the temperature around the.... well everything with a heat gun, everything averaged about 200, but the manifold (just the manifold, not the block or anything else) was spiking between 300 and 500, and this is coming from the tailpipe
 

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what did you adjust the timing to?
It's a little hard to tell cause it jumps back and forth on both sides of the needle soo much, but it does hit 10 to 12 degrees before tdc more than anything, I checked for vacuum leaks with throttle body cleaner, and didn't get any response, I'm about to pull the evap van to see if the resistance is right on it, and if I can't verify without taking the intake manifold off that everything under there is tight and connected correctly, then I'm gonna take it back apart
 
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You could also run a compression test to see if your rings
Are good or not or if any work on the top end will have to be done
I have a vaccum tester (a mityvac) I think, but it comes with little to no instructions. so I'd have to do a little research, but that and the timing chain sound like pretty good things to check next. I took a video of the engine idle and a guy I know who has a shop said I may have a clogged exhaust or a vacuum leak
 

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It's a little hard to tell cause it jumps back and forth on both sides of the needle soo much, but it does hit 10 to 12 degrees before tdc more than anything, I checked for vacuum leaks with throttle body cleaner, and didn't get any response, I'm about to pull the evap van to see if the resistance is right on it, and if I can't verify without taking the intake manifold off that everything under there is tight and connected correctly, then I'm gonna take it back apart
Soinds like you didnt pull the spout connector when you timed it. Your reading should be rock steady. From your pics it looks like your apitti g raw fuel out the tails. I would imagine Your plugs are fouled. Reset timing with spout out and reinspect plugs. With that much raw fuel you arent getti g correct spark. Dont waist money on a timing chain its not your issue.
 

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Soinds like you didnt pull the spout connector when you timed it. Your reading should be rock steady. From your pics it looks like your apitti g raw fuel out the tails. I would imagine Your plugs are fouled. Reset timing with spout out and reinspect plugs. With that much raw fuel you arent getti g correct spark. Dont waist money on a timing chain its not your issue.
my next question was if you pulled the timing spout as well?
 
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Soinds like you didnt pull the spout connector when you timed it. Your reading should be rock steady. From your pics it looks like your apitti g raw fuel out the tails. I would imagine Your plugs are fouled. Reset timing with spout out and reinspect plugs. With that much raw fuel you arent getti g correct spark. Dont waist money on a timing chain its not your issue.
I thought that was fuel too, (was thinking it was a combination of putting 22 lb injectors instead of 19, and having bad timing ) but I smelled and inspected it, it has very little to no fuel smell and the black in it appears to be carbon. I think my exhaust system may be clogged, but I did determine my evaporative canister purge valve is shot, so that's another part of the cascading engine problem, but yes, no I did not remove the spout, cause I was too busy trying to remember what I had just learned to do for the first time, that I forgot what I knew already. Sooo since you have reminded me of that, I'll try to adjust the timing again when I get the evap can, in the meantime I'll check the plugs and I'll remove the distributor cap and moves the main drive pulley to see if there's any play in my chain. Thanks, I can't believe I forgot to take that thing out, that was all I actually knew about timing before a week or two ago
 
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my next question was if you pulled the timing spout as well?
That's a negative..... now all my built up (I'm learning soo much) confidence is sooo embarrassed, that's one of the first things I ever learned about timing, way back when I couldn't even comprehend how to use a timing light
 

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We learn everyday!

Heck....for me lately its been "Re - learn"! Not sure if its memory loss or lack of care.
 

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