Need more fuel rail/vacuum help please!

[Daryl]

… Separating from my earlier thread for further instruction:

I’ve fixed the fuel pressure gauge adapter that I snapped off by mistake (big oops!). And recall mention of attaching a vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator to somewhere “underneath” the intake manifold?? THAT’S where I need further direction. So, if anyone can offer help, I’d greatly appreciate it! Including the “how to” and parts/pieces I’ll need to get it done.

Hope everyone had a very Merry Christmas and thanks in advance for any/all help. Cheers!

 

[ttocs]

fpr line is right next to it on the throat of the intake. IIRC it looked like someone instead put the hose that goes to the vac tree on the drivers side to it(check to make sure)? If that is the case, then you need to take that hose off, connect the fpr to that barb. Now if you reach up under the intake on the drivers side, in the middle of the intake there is a hump and on the back of it should be one or two hose barbs. That is where the vac tree hose is supposed to go to. As I mentioned before I have to loosen the upper a little to gain enough access with my hands, but I can't see anything I am doing it is all by feel.

If they did not at least cap those barbs off, this would introduce air after the maf and probably result in a high idle and afr issues.

 

[Daryl]

fpr line is right next to it on the throat of the intake. IIRC it looked like someone instead put the hose that goes to the vac tree on the drivers side to it(check to make sure)? If that is the case, then you need to take that hose off, connect the fpr to that barb. Now if you reach up under the intake on the drivers side, in the middle of the intake there is a hump and on the back of it should be one or two hose barbs. That is where the vac tree hose is supposed to go to. As I mentioned before I have to loosen the upper a little to gain enough access with my hands, but I can't see anything I am doing it is all by feel.

If they did not at least cap those barbs off, this would introduce air after the maf and probably result in a high idle and afr issues.

Ok, thx Scott! I’ll get after it this weekend. Out of town for Xmas right now.

 

[Daryl]

Stock FPR.

Do I need to connect the nipple on top of the FPR to the hippie that’s capped only ~3” away??
Or… the vac line that IS connected right next to it runs under the TB forward, then between the oil filler neck and the back of the alternator to here (where there’s an open port??

 

[ttocs]

yes it goes to the nipple that is capped.

 

[Daryl]

Sweet! That’s a short span!

 

[95opal]

Don't forget to plug that longer back line in or cap it. Not sure if your running any emissions crap but that is what that empty nipple goes to.

 

[Daryl]

Don't forget to plug that longer back line in or cap it. Not sure if your running any emissions crap but that is what that empty nipple goes to.

I guess I’ll just cap it (?) since I have no idea where it would run to. But yes, I have all the smog shit. I take it you’re talking about the second picture, the white plastic piece?

 

[Daryl]

Done! (I hope) 32psi; FPR tied in to the throttle body’s neck vacuum port; and EGR line capped off

 

[Daryl]

Well, everything seems to be working very well now. The replaced fuel injector pigtail , the stock FPR , connecting the vacuum line and capping the EGR nipple. So with the severed fuel injector leads, was I essentially running in 7 cylinders? I kind of think so because I did a burnout off the stoplight all the way across the intersection + gotta lil chirp into 2nd to boot . I’m gonna get greedy and think/hope mpg is better too, as the fuel gauge didn’t move as much yesterday in the 42-mile round trip to work as it did previously. I’ll check mpg at the next fill-up.

So THANK YOU EVERYONE for helping me thru this and for all the help, commit, insights and knowledge-based guidance. I could NOT have done it without you all. Appreciate ya! ++

Daryl

 

[lwarrior1016]

Glad you got it fixed. You were absolutely running on 7 cylinders. There’s no telling how long it’s been like that. Mpg and power should definitely go up.

 

[Daryl]

Power definitely did. I’ll check mpg next fill-up or top-off and chime back in.

Question: idle seems just a tad higher. Was around 950ish, now teetering a hair above 1000. Should I adjust the timing or will it adjust itself?

 

[lwarrior1016]

Power definitely did. I’ll check mpg next fill-up or top-off and chime back in.

Question: idle seems just a tad higher. Was around 950ish, now teetering a hair above 1000. Should I adjust the timing or will it adjust itself?

Timing will go back to where it was, no matter how you adjust it. The computer takes care of all that.

Double check all your vacuum lines. You may have bumped one and not noticed it, causing a vacuum leak.

 

[Daryl]

Timing will go back to where it was, no matter how you adjust it. The computer takes care of all that.

Double check all your vacuum lines. You may have bumped one and not noticed it, causing a vacuum leak.

Double-checked. All good. Guess I’ll just wait for the computer to do its thing!

 

[07GtS197]

Clear the kam by unplugging the battery. That should help reset everything and have it run better.

 

[weendoggy]

You can do a minor idle setting by checking the TB and making sure it is closes all the way. Then adjust to idle speed you want and then adjust the TPS to reflect the .98v - 1.1v required at idle. Getting those set will allow the computer to "learn" and adjust as needed.

 

[Daryl]

Clear the kam by unplugging the battery. That should help reset everything and have it run better.

Easy-peasy… wil do & thanks!

 

[07GtS197]

Messing with the tps so get that magic 1v is a myth. The range is somewhere from like .5v-1.3v or something but every time the key is cycled, the ecu uses the lowest tps voltage as closed throttle.

 

[weendoggy]

Messing with the tps so get that magic 1v is a myth. The range is somewhere from like .5v-1.3v or something but every time the key is cycled, the ecu uses the lowest tps voltage as closed throttle.

I doubt you could get it to .5v unless you file the slots. It's not hard to put it a reference voltage. I just did a Bronco that ran like crap until I set it close to 1v. But, what do I know, I'm old.

 

[joemomma]

I'd bet this had an impact on your dyno numbers after the stroker install? I'd be curious to get the old girl back on the dyno and give it another spin - I'd bet your numbers are better.