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mcglsr2

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For a little bit less than a DART block, you could go with a Ford Racing Boss 302 block. It's got thicker webs, 4 bolt mains (except for the ends IIRC), siamesed bores. It's fairly stout - though not quite as stout as a DART. However, for 400+ hp, it will be more than fine. And I'm pretty sure everything already just bolts up to it, perhaps with the exception of your head bolts. It might use the thicker ones, I don't remember.

You can google for it. Here it is at LMR -> link though it can be found for hundreds less elsewhere on the web. Just google.
 

95opal

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Both blocks need to be machine.

/\This..... when you buy a dart or boss block you get nothing but a bare block that needs to be machined and stuffed. To do a dart stroker shortblock your looking around $5K and you still need heads and fuel ect ect. Look at my previous post for your budget. Unless you find a used dart shortblock youll need to stick with a stock block or 351.
 
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1bad9d5

1bad9d5

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http://www.summitracing.com/parts/d...fbrzYL-tZMAvmb1eeFC12DVR7A32MVPc_saAgvR8P8HAQ

Mind you, that's just a block. I don't think it needs anything special, maybe someone more experienced can chime in here.

For a little bit less than a DART block, you could go with a Ford Racing Boss 302 block. It's got thicker webs, 4 bolt mains (except for the ends IIRC), siamesed bores. It's fairly stout - though not quite as stout as a DART. However, for 400+ hp, it will be more than fine. And I'm pretty sure everything already just bolts up to it, perhaps with the exception of your head bolts. It might use the thicker ones, I don't remember.

You can google for it. Here it is at LMR -> link though it can be found for hundreds less elsewhere on the web. Just google.

Both blocks need to be machine.

/\This..... when you buy a dart or boss block you get nothing but a bare block that needs to be machined and stuffed. To do a dart stroker shortblock your looking around $5K and you still need heads and fuel ect ect. Look at my previous post for your budget. Unless you find a used dart shortblock youll need to stick with a stock block or 351.

Thanks guys, yeah I would definitely need the motor to have everything it needs after 5k max.. that or see if I can wait to build a bigger budget. Sucks paying for a car though that isn't moving (insurance wise) so id definitely like to get this done soon.
 

kb1982

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If you ditch the turbo, you will need better heads. With a 351 based block, you will need a new lower intake manifold as stated above, plus a distributor also( rods, pistons, and crank also). Also you may have to drill your heads for the larger head bolts a 351 uses. Plus with the deck hieght being taller, the turbo is also gonna move up if used on it. The 302 is around 8.2 deck height and the 351 is usually 9.5. The dart block route, everything will bolt right up, with the exception you have to use link bar lifters. As far as the oil pan,the instructions says stock wont work with front and rear 4 bolt main caps. Mine is a sportsman block with 2 bolt front and rear mains, but it has a moroso oil pan on it. They also have the larger 1/2" head bolt holes, which are blind btw, so no sealer needed on the head bolts. The instructions claim it can be bored safely to 4.185, so its for a lifetime unless you put a window in it. If you start with a 4 inch bore, thats alot of rebuilds. Even starting with a 363 with a bore of 4.125, you will have a couple of rebuilds. The cheapeast route would be to rebore your block (if you can), turn the crank, balance it, and put it all back together. Bearings and pistons, head bolts and gaskets, are all that you would need. You need to decide if your staying naturally aspirated or not first. High compression and forced induction will require e85 or high octance, and a low compression na motor will be lazy. If you dont use the turbo, you could sell it to offset the set of heads, then do a stock block 351 stroker combo.
 

cameron57

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Dart block will need machined a good machine shop ussually charges roughly $1000 for getting the block ready to go. You should look for a used shortblock put your current topend on and turbo and crank up the boost.
 

Addermk2

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buy another 302.

Pull the pistons, install new rings and bearings (open up the ring gap larger than stock) and re-assemble.

There is no reason to turn a $700 repair into a $4k-$5k waste of money.
 
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1bad9d5

1bad9d5

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buy another 302.

Pull the pistons, install new rings and bearings (open up the ring gap larger than stock) and re-assemble.

There is no reason to turn a $700 repair into a $4k-$5k waste of money.

Yeah I realized this today, I am most likely going to buy a 302 block, make it stronger than what it was before, throw my top end + turbo back on and enjoy. I will have to start a build thread after I buy it
 

Addermk2

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Again... Don't over - think a $700 repair.

I can almost guarantee that your ring failure was due to a small end gap, and probably a tuning problem.
 
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1bad9d5

1bad9d5

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Again... Don't over - think a $700 repair.

I can almost guarantee that your ring failure was due to a small end gap, and probably a tuning problem.
Yeah I know. I'll know 100% ether tomorrow or Monday, got a guy at a machine shop that has a 302 block and he is going to bore it out for me. That throw the top end back out with turbo and I'm taking it somewhere else to get tuned. Should be much stronger this time
 

95opal

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Yeah I know. I'll know 100% ether tomorrow or Monday, got a guy at a machine shop that has a 302 block and he is going to bore it out for me. That throw the top end back out with turbo and I'm taking it somewhere else to get tuned. Should be much stronger this time

With your current HP level building a stock block is like building a time bomb. Sure its the cheapest route but how long will it last is the big question? and there is no answer to that question. To be honest if you plan on keeping the turbo I would just save up for an aftermarket block. I don't think I could verify building a stock block with the HP your at its pretty much a waist in my mind. Might want to poke around on corral to see whats available before you go full boggie on a stock block
 
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1bad9d5

1bad9d5

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With your current HP level building a stock block is like building a time bomb. Sure its the cheapest route but how long will it last is the big question? and there is no answer to that question. To be honest if you plan on keeping the turbo I would just save up for an aftermarket block. I don't think I could verify building a stock block with the HP your at its pretty much a waist in my mind. Might want to poke around on corral to see whats available before you go full boggie on a stock block
If it gets bored out, and with the top end 6-7 pounds of boost of the turbo will touch a little over 400 horses, I don't think it'll be pushing the limit. I know I was before when I cranked it up to 540.
That is my opinion though.
 

Addermk2

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If it gets bored out, and with the top end 6-7 pounds of boost of the turbo will touch a little over 400 horses, I don't think it'll be pushing the limit. I know I was before when I cranked it up to 540.
That is my opinion though.
Horsepower isn't what kills these engines. People have proved it time after time.

RPM, tune, and parts quality is where the limitations show. Go spin a stock rotating assembly to 9000 rpm and see how well it does.
 
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1bad9d5

1bad9d5

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Touche, it's also why I'm not taking my car back to the previous tuner, he was a waste of my time.
 

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