Well So I did some test looks like I got two rods knocking on on each side on the passenger side looks like #1 rod is knocking and on the driver side #7 rods is knocking so I am pulling the motor so I need some opinions. Option 1 Pulls the Motor buy a 5.0 stoker for mustang depot for roughly 1,000 bucks then port and polish my heads. Gains would be small in hp for the stoker but my tourque would come up plus it would lower my compression to 9.8 and give me more valve clearance. Option 2 Replace the nessecary rods and put it back together and call it good. Option 3 Sell all the good parts and swap it for a 351 windsor Option 4 go to a 4V
if you dont want to do alot of work go with option 2.. if not that, id say option 1 unless you dont mind doing the 4 valve. if you dont mind some work, id say do a 4v.. then later down the road, you might get mod happy again and youd have one nice engine to start with.
I would do a 4V but then I would rebuild it and stroker it out anyways so basicly I could go with option one then just swap some otrher parts over to make it a 4v but then cams would kill me and then finding a wire harness so I am leaning just to do option one cuz my goal is close to 400 hp at the fly
Option 1. It would be a shame to pull it all apart and not upgrad the rods and pistons. stroker or not.
yeah I might be swaping heads to I was thinking about diching the P.i. head sand going to the frpp heads with a typhoon intake
well the option i would do isn't on there and thats just buy an already built shortblock from MMR since your on the west coast.
I know this aint one of your options but put it back to stock and turbo it. Dont get retarded with the boost get it to about 9psi make about 500 horse and have fun with it. If I could do it again thats what i would have done instead of putting a high compression 331 in my car. Just my .02. BRAD
the is is the stroker kit i am looking at for my lower end http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BUDG...ihZ008QQitemZ180073539612QQrdZ1#feedback_info
Id say 1 or 4. If you dont want to really spend a lot of money on the stang then just replace what needs to be done and enjoy it, spring isnt far around the corner, enjoy it then mabye next winter pull it apart.
I wouldn't buy that junk! its not even a forged crank. Stick with quality parts or you'll just give yourself more headaches. VT or Livernois is who i'd buy my stroker kit from.
Well the reason why I don't think the kit is bad is I am comparing this to a Small block chevy cuz there is really no difference in the bottom end. You can runs a small block chevy with cast crank,rods and pistons at 400 hp at the fly with no problem. this kit had probe forged pistons which from what I have heard is avery good piston. and forged I beam rods so that alone is better and it comes with a nodular crank which is casting but stronger I don't want to s/c at all so I think that will be better than what I have which is all cast except for the pistons are hyperutetic. The only things I might do with the kit is ditch the rings and bearings and get h beam rods. but they also come with arp wav locs which are good!!!
Ya, I guess you could go that route. But, do you really think you'll want to stop at 400 HP. Forged all around would sure be nice! at least the rods and pistons.
O0 The kits come with Forged Rods and pistions then has a cast nodular Crank I don't want to F/I it because I always loved n/a my chevelle is different but I don't want my stang to be over 400hp
If that's your goal, then it should work. you'll need the headwork & cams to get up into that range. The modulars respond well to high compression/boost. if your staying NA, are you going higher compression and a custom cam or something?
I have cams already but might get a different set. I have 10.25 compresion but it will drop to 9.8 compression and I am going to get some headwork done!!