Ive been searching and cant find anything i have cc.plates and the camber is maxed out and i still have camber and its wearing the crap out of the inside of my tires. Ive heard you could drill the shock tower and move it out anyone have any info on that or any other way to get my tires straighter so im not putting tires on my car ever month or so driving 60 miles a day for work
What CC plates do you have? Any chance there are on the wrong side? What springs are you running that it can't be aligned with CC plates. I have sportlines (1.5" drop) and steeda CC plates and there was no problem with the alignment.
I'll have to take a pic of the wheel when i get off work. I need to do a whole alignment still id just like to get the wheels pretty sraight if i can if not i may need to go to bigs a littles tires are cheap in the front haha
I have h&r springs and upr cc plates, they dont get mine in alignment either and it eats up my tires as well. Im gonna buy some MM cc plates cause they can adjust more.
Has any one else heard of where you take the strut drill new holes and have the whole strur and cc plate closer to the fender?
Yes, I thought about doing that but if I can get my alignment just by getting new MM plates Ill go with that instead of drilling out my strut towers. Probably cost less also, but if you are going slammed with coilovers you might need too Im not sure though.
I dont think so, I believe it depends more on how low you go with coilovers. Though hopefully someone with COs chimes in.
Are they 3 or 4 bolt camber plates? For coilovers it's always recommended to get 4 bolt to support the load they will put on the shock tower. Also, you can try putting in some alignment bolts from eibach (http://www.americanmuscle.com/eibach-proalign-bolts-9404.html). I've never heard of drilling new holes in the shock tower to move the actual plate... seems like it would throw everything off. And fwiw, I am way lower than you and my camber is currently set at around -2.25 degrees.. hoping for more If I decide to get some drift arms. The tires wear just fine.
There 4 bolt will my Sig is springs Before control arms and co that's why I'm thinking i just need to align and see how bad it is now
I guess I need to check out what my car has. Its lowered.. basically on the ground but no issues driving or camber problems and im pretty sure all it has is springs. Anyhow, ricer cars independent rears have camber but are in alignment, their tires dont wear.
I wouldn't re-drill anything. You can't go back from that. If anything, drill the shock, not the chassis. Not familiar with the UPR, but the MM has a race and street configuration. Basically the upper pieces (on MM, yours are on the bottom) can be on either side and dictates the race or street. In race, you can't go neutral on camber. You can only go to like -1.5. What brand of CO do you run?
Camber usually doesn't kill tires. Toe does. What are the readings after the alignment? I'd also shove the struts all the way back for some more caster. I've run -2.5* camber and 6.5* caster on my autox car, and I put a lot of street miles on it. Never had any wear issues.