New build. 95 GT 347 Stroker

[Wells.Strength]

Hey!
New here! It’s been quite a few years since I’ve been in a Mustang, back in the day I had a 97’ Cobra that was my baby! Back in 1999-2003 then like an idiot kid I sold it and soon left for the Army. Anyway…
New build now! I have a 95 GT that I have started a build on.
BOSS 347 short block
SVE 185 heads
Trickflow hydraulic lifters
1.6 Trickflow roller rocker arms
Manley swedged pushrods
ARP head studs, ARP fasteners throughout…
Hot forged high performance distributor
MSD Plugs and wires
Protourque starter
Power master alternator
Canton Oil pan 15-640
TCI Forged flexplate
High volume oil pump
High volume water pump
Comp cams dual roller timing set
Trick flow track max stage 2 cam
Trick flow track heat intake (with 1” spacer)
BBK 75 mm throttle body
Custom MAF 75mm and 47lb injectors
47lb injectors
255L/hr Fuel pump
SR performance cold air intake
SVE Aluminum radiator
BBK equal length shorty headers
TCI street fighter torque converter
3:73 rear end gears.
Mega squirt plug and play set up

That’s basically all of it… I think..
Looking for any pointers anyone may have.
Especially for fuel rail adaptations with the Trickflow intake and larger distributor.
EGR deletion…
Want to delete basically everything I don’t need. Just going to keep the AC for now… probably not for long. SMOG is gone as well.

 

[whiplash473]

What are you looking for advice on?

What’s wrong with the factory fuel rails? There are plenty of aftermarket options available if you’re so inclined.

Edit: that’s very close to being the same engine I built for mine and my factory fuel rails are working fine.

 

[Wells.Strength]

That is great information, unfortunately I ordered fuel rails from Anderson’s made for this common headache of hitting the distributor with the fuel rail. But I do have another issue after working on it tonight. The aftermarket harmonic balancer doesn’t have the same offset as the factory balancer, what did you do for this? I have a balancer for an internally balanced motor, and it’s flat faced. Ford performance. Need about 5/8” spacer.

 

[Wells.Strength]

Ended up going with Anderson's fuel rails. I am running into a clearance issue though with my trackheat intake, I have a 1" spacer currently but still hitting the valve cover with the electronics on the throttle body. I mocked up an additional 3/8" spacer and it cleared, so I have ordered the spacer to add to the 1". Has anyone ever had this issue? I assume someone has... I am using tall valve covers obviously, I didn't expect to have to space the intake this much though.

Also... anyone have any wire tuck advice? I am eliminating EGR, O2 sensors, Smog pump, I'd like to clean the engine bay up a bit.

 

[Wells.Strength]

Picture of the Anderson fuel rails clearing the distributor.

 

[badass98svt]

What kind of power can you expect out of that built 347?
I'm considering a 331 + boost for my fox.
347 I heard is great NA, but not necessary strong enough for boost safely

 

[Terrorist 5.0]

Only educated advice I can give is lose the AC unless you ABSOLUTELY need it. When I removed my inoperable AC, I got a lot more room to work in the engine bay, and removing the condenser allowed my car to run a little cooler. Very much so worth it if you are a windows down type of guy like myself.

 

[Daryl]

Welcome back to The Herd! Nice sleeper look++
Only thing that popped out to me is LONG TUBES??

 

[duh09]

If you're running Megasquirt, you should be able to toss the MAF, it should be on a MAP setup.

Running tall valve covers generally takes a pretty good bit of spacing on these cars so it's no surprise that you're needing to move up more.

I haven't done a wiretuck on one of these cars, but it used to be a pretty popular thing. I'll likely do a bit on the Cobra as it goes together, but generally, you can shove the fuse box in the driver fender and run most of the harness along the core support and pull back out again from the passenger side. Some folks left the fuse box out, some sort of recessed it, some just shoved it in the fender in entirety.

 

[Wells.Strength]

Only educated advice I can give is lose the AC unless you ABSOLUTELY need it. When I removed my inoperable AC, I got a lot more room to work in the engine bay, and removing the condenser allowed my car to run a little cooler. Very much so worth it if you are a windows down type of guy like myself.

Good chance I will take it off, I plan on running two different belt lengths one to run at the track to bypass the AC. Then one to cruise with with AC while it is still streetable.

 

[Wells.Strength]

If you're running Megasquirt, you should be able to toss the MAF, it should be on a MAP setup.

Running tall valve covers generally takes a pretty good bit of spacing on these cars so it's no surprise that you're needing to move up more.

I haven't done a wiretuck on one of these cars, but it used to be a pretty popular thing. I'll likely do a bit on the Cobra as it goes together, but generally, you can shove the fuse box in the driver fender and run most of the harness along the core support and pull back out again from the passenger side. Some folks left the fuse box out, some sort of recessed it, some just shoved it in the fender in entirety.

I was unaware of this… learning a ton! I haven’t even gotten to the point of installing the mega squirt. Currently stuck on Torque converter and flex plate set up. Turns out the TCI STREETFIGHTER DOESNT WORK! When I bought it it specified 94-04, but then further down it mentioned (won’t work on 5.0 without a custom flex plate) so today when I went to do all of that I found out none of it is meshing. So I am now trying to find the best route to take for tranny, whether it is a torque converter flex plate combo or new tranny all together. Any ideas?

 

[Wells.Strength]

Welcome back to The Herd! Nice sleeper look++
Only thing that popped out to me is LONG TUBES??

Went with shorties due to the difficulty of running full length with the AODE. also my lack of experience with them I defaulted to the safe side of the shorties.

 

[Wells.Strength]

What kind of power can you expect out of that built 347?
I'm considering a 331 + boost for my fox.
347 I heard is great NA, but not necessary strong enough for boost safely

I’ve been told 450-500…. I can’t wait to find out.

 

[Wells.Strength]

Ended up going with this combo, at this point this year I have so much into this car I cant squeeze out enough for a full tranny build, I was eyeballing the Street Terminator from Lentech though... price point of 3695 isn't bad at all.

 

[joe65]

Hey!
New here! It’s been quite a few years since I’ve been in a Mustang, back in the day I had a 97’ Cobra that was my baby! Back in 1999-2003 then like an idiot kid I sold it and soon left for the Army. Anyway…
New build now! I have a 95 GT that I have started a build on.
BOSS 347 short block
SVE 185 heads
Trickflow hydraulic lifters
1.6 Trickflow roller rocker arms
Manley swedged pushrods
ARP head studs, ARP fasteners throughout…
Hot forged high performance distributor
MSD Plugs and wires
Protourque starter
Power master alternator
Canton Oil pan 15-640
TCI Forged flexplate
High volume oil pump
High volume water pump
Comp cams dual roller timing set
Trick flow track max stage 2 cam
Trick flow track heat intake (with 1” spacer)
BBK 75 mm throttle body
Custom MAF 75mm and 47lb injectors
47lb injectors
255L/hr Fuel pump
SR performance cold air intake
SVE Aluminum radiator
BBK equal length shorty headers
TCI street fighter torque converter
3:73 rear end gears.
Mega squirt plug and play set up

That’s basically all of it… I think..
Looking for any pointers anyone may have.
Especially for fuel rail adaptations with the Trickflow intake and larger distributor.
EGR deletion…
Want to delete basically everything I don’t need. Just going to keep the AC for now… probably not for long. SMOG is gone as well.

clean build. I like it.

 

[95opal]

I was unaware of this… learning a ton! I haven’t even gotten to the point of installing the mega squirt. Currently stuck on Torque converter and flex plate set up. Turns out the TCI STREETFIGHTER DOESNT WORK! When I bought it it specified 94-04, but then further down it mentioned (won’t work on 5.0 without a custom flex plate) so today when I went to do all of that I found out none of it is meshing. So I am now trying to find the best route to take for tranny, whether it is a torque converter flex plate combo or new tranny all together. Any ideas?

Absolutely ditch the MAF with the mega squirt.

 

[Wells.Strength]

Well, I got my 3/8" spacer for the intake, now I have 1 3/8" total and I finally clear the valve covers! Now to figure out what to do for a hood, because I am sure the stock hood is not going to fit!

 

[96blak54]

https://lmr.com/item/LRS-6038DS/1979-95-Mustang-351W-Drop-Solid-Motor-Mounts

Looks like LMR sells a solid engine mount set that drops the engine 1.25"

Some like the solid engine mount feel of the car, some dont. Personally, im not taking the car on 10hr trips and I like the race car feel of solid mounts.

 

[Wells.Strength]

https://lmr.com/item/LRS-6038DS/1979-95-Mustang-351W-Drop-Solid-Motor-Mounts

Looks like LMR sells a solid engine mount set that drops the engine 1.25"

Some like the solid engine mount feel of the car, some dont. Personally, im not taking the car on 10hr trips and I like the race car feel of solid mounts.

I seen that, what I was worried about is the oil pan clearance and offset rack bushings...

 

[badass98svt]

I seen that, what I was worried about is the oil pan clearance and offset rack bushings...

Skip the offset bushings and go with the solid rack bushings from MM. It's a huge improvement.