New member and crank no start HELP question

[RevJon]

Hey all, I have a 2000 GT that will crank but won’t fire. I know there’s a lot of forums about this but specifically my Fuel pump keeps priming consistently even when I turn the switch to on (not ignition). I have replaced the fuel pressure sensor. I’m getting fuel through the bleeder valve. I have no idea what it could be from here unless the ECU went bad? Is it normal for the pump to keep priming and anyone got any ideas of how to fix it?

I find forums like these god sends so glad to join the community!

 

[cobrajeff96]

Make sure there's spark.

 

[RevJon]

Make sure there's spark.

Thanks for the reply. New spark plugs and coils. I’m gonna test fuel pressure today…and maybe compression too. Just hoping someone else has been through this with an easy fix. Is it normal for the fuel pump to keep priming on a return less fuel pump. Maybe the fuel pump driver module?

 

[cobrajeff96]

That I don't know, I've only ever had a Mustang with return. But it kind of makes sense, the PWM in a returnless will regulate how much the pump should push at any given second. I don't know that there's a risk of flooding the cylinders as the ECU would be the deciding factor on injectors opening to spray fuel in. You'd think that the ECU would need a steady reading from the crank trigger to even allow this.

Maybe start pulling things like one injector and one plug. Contact the ground strap to bare metal somewhere and see if spark is even happening.

Fuel, air, spark. One (or more) of those three things is missing... and I doubt it's the air part.

 

[RevJon]

That I don't know, I've only ever had a Mustang with return. But it kind of makes sense, the PWM in a returnless will regulate how much the pump should push at any given second. I don't know that there's a risk of flooding the cylinders as the ECU would be the deciding factor on injectors opening to spray fuel in. You'd think that the ECU would need a steady reading from the crank trigger to even allow this.

Maybe start pulling things like one injector and one plug. Contact the ground strap to bare metal somewhere and see if spark is even happening.

Fuel, air, spark. One (or more) of those three things is missing... and I doubt it's the air part.

Appreciate your thoughts. Some other details: after replacing the timing The car just died while I was driving it down the highway. So I reset the timing again just to be sure. No start with starter fluid in the intake. Fuel pressure is good. I’m at a loss here…

 

[ttocs]

you can try borrowing a noid light to see if the injectors are firing, or pull a plug and see if it smells like gas.

 

[cobrajeff96]

When you say timing, you mean the cam timing? As in setting the valvetrain to be correctly in time?

And now it's running on the road? What changed since it was in a no-start condition?

 

[SnakeBit!]

possibly crankshaft position sensor.

 

[RAU03MACH]

You say your getting fuel
How much psi at the bleeder
Not enough won't start
No guessing hook up a Guage

 

[96blak54]

The fuel pressure rail sensors are garbage! Period! And then youll replace it with aftermarket only to find itll fail internally allowing fuel to dump into the vacuum line....filling the intake manifold up with gas. Pull the vac line off the fprs and cycle the key to be sure no fuel is pushing out the vacuum port.

 

[RevJon]

Hey all, sorry I hadn’t realized I had so many responses. Here’s where I’m at:

Fuel pressure is 52psi
Did a noid test and none of the injectors are lighting up. Tried to run a compression test but my fitting won’t go in so I need to get an extension or something.

Battery will crank a few cycles but then seems to die out. Battery is one year old. Any ideas?

 

[RevJon]

you can try borrowing a noid light to see if the injectors are firing, or pull a plug and see if it smells like gas.

The injectors are not firing. It failed the noid test. All of them

 

[ttocs]

follow the harness back and see if you can find any copper showing, broken wires or other problems. Disconnect the harness and inspect the connections inside for signs of heat or corrosion

 

[RevJon]

follow the harness back and see if you can find any copper showing, broken wires or other problems. Disconnect the harness and inspect the connections inside for signs of heat or

follow the harness back and see if you can find any copper showing, broken wires or other problems. Disconnect the harness and inspect the connections inside for signs of heat or corrosion

The harness looks fine from what I can tell. The CCRC Was a bit loose, but I’m definitely not having any fuel pump issues as I can hear the fuel pump running whenever I turn the ignition switch on and it runs continuously. I’m going to do a compression test next, and will post results. I appreciate the communities help!

 

[07GtS197]

Are you using an oem key? Is the theft light flashing while cranking? Any codes?

 

[ttocs]

well now the fact you hear the pump priming does not mean everything is good on the fuel side. Often times the pump will start to slow down and that will show up with it taking longer than normal to start up. You can often test this theory by turning the key on and waiting 5 secs for the pump to prime, then turning the key off and then back on to let it prime for another 5 secs and then if it starts right up, you probably have a weak pump.

You could also have a tear in the fuel line that goes from the pump to the hat which means the it leaks back into the tank so you will never know it till you pull the pump.

BUT with that being said the no injectors, start simple and make a run through both fuseboxes. Don't bother with the manual just pull/inspect/meter-test each one and then put it back in so we can be sure they are all good.

 

[RevJon]

follow the harness back and see if you can find any copper showing, broken wires or other problems. Disconnect the harness and inspect the connections inside for signs of heat or

Are you using an oem key? Is the theft light flashing while cranking? Any codes?

I’m not using an oem key, when I turn ignition there is no light flashing for anti theft but I will check when trying to crank. Only code is a pending one so I have to put a better scanner on it tomorrow. I will post what comes up.

 

[RevJon]

well now the fact you hear the pump priming does not mean everything is good on the fuel side. Often times the pump will start to slow down and that will show up with it taking longer than normal to start up. You can often test this theory by turning the key on and waiting 5 secs for the pump to prime, then turning the key off and then back on to let it prime for another 5 secs and then if it starts right up, you probably have a weak pump.

You could also have a tear in the fuel line that goes from the pump to the hat which means the it leaks back into the tank so you will never know it till you pull the pump.

BUT with that being said the no injectors, start simple and make a run through both fuseboxes. Don't bother with the manual just pull/inspect/meter-test each one and then put it back in so we can be sure they are all good.

Thanks man! The fuel pump runs continuously. It just doesn’t prime and stop 5 seconds later like I’m used to. It just runs and runs and runs. Is that normal? I have checked the fuses and they all checked out, but the car has been sitting awhile so I can double check them.

Update: I just ran my buddy’s scanner which is nicer than mine and we got a few DTC:
P1237- fuel pump secondary circuit
C1805- mismatched pcm or abs/tcs module
B1932– drivers side air bag circuit open

Again the fuel pump just runs and runs so I’m suspecting that might be the cause (although my fuel pressure is good).I’m stumped…and frustrated

 

[RevJon]

Are you using an oem key? Is the theft light flashing while cranking? Any codes?

Thanks man! The fuel pump runs continuously. It just doesn’t prime and stop 5 seconds later like I’m used to. It just runs and runs and runs. Is that normal? I have checked the fuses and they all checked out, but the car has been sitting awhile so I can double check them.

Update: I just ran my buddy’s scanner which is nicer than mine and we got a few DTC:
P1237- fuel pump secondary circuit (fuel pump driver module)
C1805- mismatched pcm or abs/tcs module
B1932- drivers side air bag circuit open

Feels like I’m finally getting somewhere

 

[07GtS197]

I don’t think the codes have anything to do with your issue. Does the theft light come on with the other dash lights? Are you using a chip key? It sounds more like a pats issue than the fuel system.