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considered a meth kit?
New motor disappointment
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torch318
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Yes I have but I would want all the fail safes with it and cost wise for now I think it'll be better spent elsewhere.
This spring when I broke a piston in my motor I went ahead and ordered a MMR longblock with tfs heads and stage three blower cams.I added the other supporting mods bigger injectors, return fuel system, eight rib upgrade on my p-1sc, 10 percent overdrive crank pulley after some belt slip, thump racing tensioner. My tuner called today and said that my new motor only made 413 hp with 14.5 lbs of boost and my old setup ran 390 hp with 13 lbs of boost thru a auto trans. He really didn't have any answers for why it doesn't make anymore power but is concerned about the cams being improperly degreed. His other concerns were the IAT's jump from 80 to 180 on a full pull, he doesn't like my pro products intake manifold due to heat soak and prefers a stock one. Anyone have any thoughts on whats going on.
i ran 100 more HP with 1 less #. Keep in mind mine is a 4v, but the 4.6 displacement remains the same. This leaves the heads and the blower to fault... With TFS' heads and blower cams, your heads shouldn't be that restrictive -- (the reason I'm willing to compare 4v numbers to 2v numbers.)
#1 - it sounds like you are over-running the blower. I'd leave it for the time being as this was what your tuner suggested. Once the problems are ironed out, I highly suggest bringing it back down to suggested operation limits (you can call the manfg. for their maximum limit suggestions -- they'll probably provide you with a compression map, too!
)#2 - rule out the bottom end. MMR has a mediocre reputation in the mustang community for a reason. They've improved over time, but still... I'd suggest a leak-down and compression test.
#3 - try and eliminate belt-slip as an option. Is your boost holding? Belt slip can go unnoticed due to the lack of sound in a closed building with an car on the dyno. I'm sure the tuner would have spotted a boost drop-off, but its the easiest problem to rectify if it was simply over-looked.
#4 - Professional Products are not a quality product. Is there any sign of a boost leak? (thinking a mounting flange may not be true.)
#5 - replace the fuel filter and then check pressure at the rail. I know this sounds incredibly "beginner-level" but when you dropped the tank to install the new pumps, you mixed up and sloshed around all the crud that settled to the bottom of the tank. Additionally, you knocked any rust/crap that was on the top/sides of the inside of the tank around to fall to the bottom. If your filter is fairly cheep and easy to replace, go for it. (If its more expensive, maybe skip replacing it, but check pressure at the rail(s) anyways.)
#6 - the heads are pretty much all thats left. As the rest of this thread has gone through; lash, degreed cams, springs... they could all be playing a part. My first 5 suggestions were to try and determine another route other than disassembly. MMR's reputation may come back to haunt them, as it sounds as if much of the head work was done in their shop.
Finally, you can also try and rule out other areas of the car that may be causing issues. Does the rear end make noise? Does the transmission make noise?
D3VST8R96GT
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I would expect that from a guy from Arizona.
no wonder he works on his car year round.... he's never huddled around a propane heater with wrenches in his hands trying to get them to warm up in hopes of getting feeling back into his fingertips. lol.
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torch318
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#6, my tuner said that my trans was making a grinding noise in reverse and drive when he brought it in the shop. When I asked him about it after the tune he said he didn't notice it but that my exhaust is too loud. He also said that he was spinning the tires on the dyno and had to have someone sit in the trunk to get them to hook (I'm running 285 nitto 555 extremes)
spray belt conditioner on the tread of the tires while on the rollers.
D3VST8R96GT
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Too many #6s
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torch318
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I thought #6 included the trans noise but he listed that after.
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torch318
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Fail safe in the tune, have the pcm jerk out an assload of timing if the iat temps get to hot. Your iat temp sensor will know when the meth quits spraying.
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torch318
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I guess I had never heard of that before when I had researched it other people had just talked about flow and pressure sensors for the kit. Any kit recommendations I had looked at a snow performance stage 3 setup at the time and some people had controllers go out on them.
after reading through this, so far there is only one problem you know of, your spinning the blower to fast. i would fix this first! no meth kit or anything else is going to fix a blower that's being spun to fast and on top of the issue your destroying the blower by running it that way
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torch318
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I agree just trying to decide if I should just go back to my 3.1 six rib blower pulley on the o.d. crank and just run a six rib belt for the time being or if I should buy a new blower pulley to match the rpm of the blower of on the old motor. Still waiting to hear what the compression test was.
I would say that depends on if your going to buy a bigger blower or not, if you are do the free swap for now
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torch318
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Talked to my tuner today and he said that when he was checking the plugs two of them were burned off and the gas smelled like varnish. I guess since I only drove the car twice this year and it sat all summer the gas in the tank went bad. He also said that the rebuilt injectors I bought off ebay must not flow 60#'s and he's going swap those out as well
D3VST8R96GT
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That sucks I have had great luck with eBay injectors.
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torch318
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He hasn't liked them since the day I took them over there cause they're the wrong color. I showed him the flow sheet for them so who knows.
Wichers123
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I had a set of injectors like that. The company stripped the color off of them and polished them so they were chrome color and said they were 42# injectors. At first they were okay then two or three months beating on it I started having problems with them idling bad. Then they would leak down causing me to extended crank it to start it when it was hot.
Also an option on the crank pulley is the 5.4 f150 uses 8rib and the pulley is almost close to the same size as 4.6 so that's an option to go to. But dude really get that charger slowed down, the compressor at the over the limit speed is just pushing hot air and not properly compressing air.
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torch318
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I already have the 5.4 pulley from before we did the o.d. pulley just trying to decide if it'd be cheaper to buy a blower pulley and swap that vs the labor for pulling the crank pulley off and putting the 5.4 one back on. Using my old 6 rib blower pulley isn't going to work because the rpms are just about the same as the 2.8 blower pulley before we did the o.d. pulley.
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