New mustang owner. Tune up info

Discussion in '96-04 - 2V Specific' started by Motojoe, Jun 3, 2014.

  1. Motojoe

    Motojoe New Member

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    This is my first mustang but I've been around cars and bikes for a long time. I came across a lazer red 1996 gt with 72k original miles from the original female owner. Still have the window sticker. Car is bone stock. I will do some work to it in the future, gears, exhaust, etc. For now what's recommended to give the car a fresh start, oil change, tranny fluid, plugs, wires. Etc. What else should I look out for. Thanks guys. It runs smooth and drives straight as an arrow. The fog lights don't work. I think it's the switch. The switch won't light up on the center console. And the power locks will unlock but not lock with the button
     
  2. ScottyDsntKnow

    ScottyDsntKnow Well-Known Member

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    Tune Up:

    Oil/Filter
    Fuel Filter
    Air filter
    Motorcraft wires (from Rockauto $50)
    Autolite 103 plugs

    Even with the NPI heads on the 96-98 cars, make sure to use a torque wrench when installing the spark plugs. 12 ft lbs.

    As far as the foglight switch, bulb being burnt out means nothing, they can still work with the bulbs out. Pop the switch out and remove it from the plug. Jumper the plug and see if your foglights come on, if they do, its the switch. You can order a brand new OEM one from LRS for $60. Sucks to pay that much but it is what it is.

    For the door locks. You can try pulling the switch itself apart and cleaning the contacts and hitting them with a little dialectric grease. Worked great on my 95 when the driver's side switches got a little wonky.

    If its an auto definitely give the trans/converter a good flush with new fluid. If its a manual, drain and fill. I like to use Syncrhomesh in everything but Dextron Mercon III is fine too. Also if its a stick shift an aftermarket shifter is a good idea for the shift stops so you don't bend any linkages or forks. The t-45 does not have internal stops like the 3650 does.
     
  3. Motojoe

    Motojoe New Member

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    Thanks for the detailed response. One more thing I want to do is flush the coolant. I've read a few different methods on how to do this. What I planned on doing is, opening the valve on the bottom of the rad and draining it. Disconnecting the lower hose and flush it out from the top with a garden hose. Where I get stuck is how do I flush the coolant left in the block and heater core? And once I fill with 50/50 what's the best way to burp the system. I did look online but couldn't find a diy or step by step method. This should be my last newb question. I don't want to clutter the forum with B/S. Thanks guys.
     
  4. ScottyDsntKnow

    ScottyDsntKnow Well-Known Member

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    Honestly I just drain the rad and then re-fill you get a good deal out that way. But if you were to pressurize the system with a hose with the feed and return from the water pump removed it should flush the whole thing. Just don't overpressurize which is one reason I don't do a pressure flush usually, I worry about blowing something out.

    As far as burping the system, here's a trick I don't think a lot of ppl know. Remove one of the coolant temp sensors out of the metal coolant crossover on the intake manifold and fill the rad with fluid with everything else hooked up. This is the highest point in the system. Once it seems full (as in you start to see fluid at the port) just squeeze on the upper radiator hose and it will burp any air out you did not get. I put a big rag around that port and just keep on going till it spills out a little, thread the sensor back in with some black RTV on the threads and there's a good burp that only takes few minutes since most of the air will find its way out of that sensor hole before you even burp it.
     
  5. Motojoe

    Motojoe New Member

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    Thanks for the help. I have 2 more simple questions. I want to change the belt. Who knows when it was changed last. Should I change the tensioner too? The car is a 96 with 74k miles and the old one seems to be fine. Also american muscle is out of ford plugs. Would ngk be a decent substitute?
     
  6. ScottyDsntKnow

    ScottyDsntKnow Well-Known Member

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    Honestly if the tensioner is not making noise I wouldn't sweat it. I listed a good plug to use in my original post. Autolite 103 coppers they are $1.99 each at Autozone or wherever.
     
  7. Motojoe

    Motojoe New Member

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    Autozone recommends a 104. Any benefits to the 103
     
  8. ScottyDsntKnow

    ScottyDsntKnow Well-Known Member

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    104 is stock. 103 runs a range colder which the modulars like. If you don't want to run a non stock temp then the 104s are fine. I run the 103s myself and the car pulls hard for a NA PI 2V.
     
  9. Jimzstang

    Jimzstang New Member

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    [​IMG]

    Great plugs... Autolite manufactures for motocraft

    Swap the rear diff fluid as well.

    Sent from Uranus
     
  10. ScottyDsntKnow

    ScottyDsntKnow Well-Known Member

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    Autolite 764s ARE Autolite 104s. 764s are also only 4 thread plugs so if you have an 8 thread head its a bad idea to use them.
     
  11. Goldmember

    Goldmember Well-Known Member

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    It's generally recommended to change the plugs on a dead-cold engine. Hot aluminum threads can do funky things and these motors already have a reputation for ejecting plugs. Happened to me after a botched repair by the previous owner. Be careful with them.
     
  12. Musturd

    Musturd Legend

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    Female owned is usually the worst person to buy a car from ... But that's got low miles