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csellis3842

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I have been on ********** and i found this forum aswell a few weeks back so im going to introduce myself.

My name is chris. I just went out and bought 97 laser red v6 5 speed. Immaculate interior. Only flaw it has is it needs to be repainted and the small tear in the drivers seat. I thought it was a perfect car until this happened.


So i went on 5 hour trip this morning. 1 hour from my destination going up a small hill section of highway 74 i believe in nc my car kicked me outta fifth with a free rev i re-engadged 5th let out the clutch and nothing but free revs my first plan of action was 4th gear. Yay..i had 4th. So i then decide todo 40mph all the way back home. When i decided on a spot to do a u-turn.

I took it turnt around engadged first. Nothing but free rev. 2nd same story. 3rd same story. As of now i got the car back in 4th and proceeded the 175 miles back. Now i have it home idk whats goimg on.


Ive read a manual never just leaves you with one gear in a epic failure ecent because 1-2, 3-4, 5/r have there own shafts.

So what would be causing me to have no gears but 4th.

From talking to a seasoned local mechanic he said could be internal, could be shift fork or could be the shifter.

I have the console shift plste and shifter box outta the car. And sure enough old tranny fluid in the box was a bad sign.

What do you guys think happened.

Fathers day yesterday i was 175 miles from my house when i got kicked outta 5th. Tried to reengadged with no gear but only free revving. So when i shifted into 4th i had took the assumption i still had all my gears but 5th. 100 miles back up 95 highway in northcarolina. My exit came up stopped the car. Went to get back onto the next highway thats when i realised it was really bad.

I had no 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 5th, or reverse.

Well that story ends with a i made it another 80 miles to the house in 5th only really had to stop the car(ran a few lights) pulled in the yard and was situating kt on the concrete to prepare for a transmission pull and when i went to rev it to get it to move in 4th the famous clutch burning smell.

So ontop of fixing it ill be ordering me a good clutch from rockauto or a local parts store. Its not a drag racer so i dont need a clutch for that but can someone point me in tbe direction of a good quality one thats not 400$+??

Regardless of the fix im sure itll be costly from a 1200$ new crate transmission to 200-300 rebuilding the shifter. Ontop of that i know i need a new clutch now. I smelt it burning when i finally did get back home. Had tk come to a conplete stop 3 blocks from the house and had to rev it 3-4 and ease on the clutch to get it going againm 175 miles 1 way with only 4th and i only had to actually stop it once.
 

CC'S95GT

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Trans definately needs to come out for a rebuild. Or find a good used one from anotherv6 or a 94/95GT. Don't get one from a fox Mustang since the fox t-5 has a shorter bellhousing and input shaft.

I would just get a stock replacement clutch for the 6er. and ck the rear main seal on the motor while the trans is out.
good luck
 

1998cobrasvt

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Well that sucks. Not sure exactly if you blew an already hurtin transmission up out of excitement or if the seller took you up stream. Maybe a little of both?

Regardless, yes replace the trans, id recommend changing over everything you can in that location while you are there. (trans-shifter area) Top to bottom.

Inspect the motor in the process

When looking for a clutch for your particular mustang HP clutch blowout is no concern. Stock is fine as well as stage 1. ..heres a stage one for 100 bucks... i love the engagement of my stage 2 vs my 97 stock clutch.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GF-CLUTCH-K...-V6-/151597584277?hash=item234beb8f95&vxp=mtr
 
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csellis3842

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Trans definately needs to come out for a rebuild. Or find a good used one from anotherv6 or a 94/95GT. Don't get one from a fox Mustang since the fox t-5 has a shorter bellhousing and input shaft.

I would just get a stock replacement clutch for the 6er. and ck the rear main seal on the motor while the trans is out.
good luck
How would i know if the rear main seal is good. No cracks or leaks. I thibk the manual had a leak of some sort ans got low on fluid.
 

CC'S95GT

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Usually just looking at it. If you see a dribble of oil coming out of it then it neds replaced. Also if the motor has hi miles then it probly needs changed.
 

mcglsr2

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Alright, if I say something you guys already know, sorry in advance. To help understand what the problems may be, I will take a sec to explain how the trans works.

There's the mainshaft, which consists of the input shaft (from the engine) and the output shaft (connects to the diff) - these two shafts are NOT connected, they are in line and spin freely of each other (think about the car being in neutral, input shaft is spinning, output is not).

Then there's the countershaft. The gears on the output shaft (1st through 3rd, and 5th) mate to gears on the countershaft. For all gears (except 4th) the countershaft ties the input shaft to the output shaft, and the tooth count on the connected gears determines the gear ratio. The gears on the output shaft spin freely UNTIL they are engaged via a synchro. The shifter (and shift forks) are what engages a synchro.

So here's an example to help visualize: when the car is in 1st gear, the input shaft is spinning, it's connected to the countershaft, the 1st gear part on the countershaft is connected to the 1st gear part on the output shaft, and the synchro is engaged on 1st gear which means the gear is tied to he output shaft, forcing the output shaft to turn. When shifting into second, the sychnro moves from 1st gear (thus disengaging gears, the shafts are spinning but no gears are tied together, thus neutral) to 2nd, which moves the synchro to 2nd gear, tying *that* gear to the output shaft, which now spins at the rate 2nd gear ratio says.

This is how 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 5th work. 4th is the only exception. 4th is 1:1 - meaning when you engage 4th, you physically (via synchro) tie the input shaft straight to the output shaft. The countershaft is not used.

Okay, so you say you lost all gears but 4th. To me, this sounds like a countershaft issue (case flexed/cracked and maybe now the countershaft no longer contacts the mainshaft). It's possible you completely lost 1st/2nd synchro (thus you can't engage those gears), only the 3rd section of the 3rd/4th synchro, and the 5th syncro - but that seems like a really weird failure condition. One way to test this is does Reverse work? If yes, your countershaft is still mated to the maintshaft. If no, reinforces that the countershaft is horked.

You will definitely need to pull the trans, and you will definitely need to rebuild it. It's possible your issue is your shift forks broke - but you have two forks, each controls a set of synchos (1/2 & 3/4). If the forks on both broken (which can happen) I don't think you would have any gear - you would not be able to engage 4th. If only 1 broke, then you should have 3rd & 4th. So I don't really think the issue is the shift forks (or shifter).

I guess you could have stripped teeth off a gear, but that's a pretty serious failure and you wouldn't have lost all the gears at once.

The fact that you still have 4th means the input shaft and output shaft *can* be tied together to make the car move, so I doubt it's a failure on either of those shafts.

So I'm leaning towards your countershaft. The countershaft is the 1 thing that 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 5th have in common, *that 4th doesn't have in common.* Going up a hill, putting load on it, case probably cracked or something and countershaft shifted away from the mainshaft. So you can engage gears but there's nothing there to tie the input shaft to the output shaft, thus free revving.

Note: my experience is with the T-5 trans, what I said should apply to your trans but may not be exact. Also, I could be totally wrong and it could be something else broken :(
 
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csellis3842

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T5 i thought i had a t5. So i have the t45?

sent from the unknown
 

mcglsr2

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Then what I said should certainly apply to you ;)
 

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