Newbie with a 1970 mustang 5.4dohc swap

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Dsmless

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Its the stock 1970 mustang tank and I just cut a hole ontop and proseal welded a 2000s GM fuel pump ring. This lets me use any wally pump I want and its easy to remove. This was before I learned how to tig aluminum so if anything I will be making a new tank soon. But this has held up fine so far.
 

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Had some free time and started the tank build. Its all 3mm thick 6061. Will have a gm ring top hat for efi pump mounting. The mesh you see gets bolted to the sides and gives it rigidity and keeps the fuel from sloshing around.

Still have to add a legth wise cross brace and weld in the drain fittings, and fully weld the “bottom” sides. From here its welding the “top” part with vent fittings, the fuel level sensor ring. Once fully welded, Im gonna mock it up so I can make the side brackets. I want it to sit up higher than stock but not too much that it will messup the filler tube.
 

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Waiting for some items to arrive so I fully welded the bottom side and por 15 it. Ypu can see the simple baffle layout. Moving on to the top side, I added material to the fuel level sender area so the mounting screws have more area to bite down on.
 

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That’s some pretty incredible work. Good job. Keep it up and keep us posted.
Thank you. I usually make hidden water tanks for overlanding or beach wash off. I also make a spare fuel tank that goes in the spare tire area if your running a swing out tire mount. It was only a given that some time Id make a better tank for my ride.
 
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Had some time today and welded the pump module ring and mounted the pump. Most of these newer modules are returnless but I just enlarge the pressure sensor hole and jb weld a fitting to it. This is the return and it dumps back into the module bowl. I also remove the cheap pump it comes with an replace it with a walbro 255. For this I always just buy the cheapest module I can find ($55 amazon special). The 2 vent lines will go to the charoal canister that gets engine vacumn on a check valve. When the engine is off theres a vent barb to the factory filler tube that will be cut down.

I removed the old tank and centered the new tank so I could mark were the mounting legs need to be at. I want it tucked up as high as I can get it. Im hoping the 4” filler cap that necks down to 3” will be enough to not make a mess everywere at the gas station. IMG_5216.jpeg
 
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Finished this up today. Fully bolted on and any air gaps were sealed. Painted it dark grey as this is the bedliner paint I had on hand. All wiring and fuel plumbing done. Put 2 gallons in it and will put anther 5 in it tomorrow. Really like how it came out, tucks neatly and hopefully no more rusting.
 

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burning some time after work I made these internal tailight covers. .040 aluminum so it bends very easy. Will just bedliner them black once the order comes in but overall Im very happy with the result. Not a bad time killer project.
 

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Keeping this build going. After the summer driving in the AZ heat, well Im a softie and would like to have AC in my ride. The stock 5.4 has the compressor mounting in the bottom left side. When I installed the 5.0 intake I moved the alternator to were the AC compressor was and redid the belt routing to accommodate. Reinstalling the AC compressor back in the oem spot left me with alternator not back in the system. So I found a reverse mount setup on youtube an copied it. Made this out of scrap aluminum pieces I had. The mount picks up on 3 front cover spots and is braced up. Wiring was easy as I just extended the charge and sense wires. Upon testing with the engine running the alternator was making 13.2 volts at idle, this was the same as before going reverse mount. No squeals nor misalignment issues and the belt is pretty tight, using the same 8rib belt. The bad is that to change the belt you will have to unbolt the mounting bracket at the cover and the alternator. I guess sometimes thats how it works out. This is the only way I have found out to use the 5.0 intake manifold and keep all the 5.4 lincoln navi front drive. I still have to get the suction pipes and fittings and peice it all together.
 

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lwarrior1016

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Looks like a good solution to me, kinda sucks about the belt situation though.

I was building a 5.4 4v to go in my old truck, also using the coyote intake, but I was using the boss intake. The alternator was able to stay in the stock 5.4 location with that intake. But that doesn’t exactly clear every hood
 

lwarrior1016

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I also wanted to let you know that you helped me with my most recent endeavor. I was putting fuel injection on my Bronco, and needed an in tank pump. Before seeing your thread I hadn’t even considered using a factory style pump from something else. Thanks to your ideas, it made me think and I wound up using a stock excursion fuel pump assembly.

Thank you very much.
 
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I also wanted to let you know that you helped me with my most recent endeavor. I was putting fuel injection on my Bronco, and needed an in tank pump. Before seeing your thread I hadn’t even considered using a factory style pump from something else. Thanks to your ideas, it made me think and I wound up using a stock excursion fuel pump assembly.

Thank you very much.
Nice man, glad I could help out. Alot of options are possible if you can fabricate or weld. When I have welded on older gas ranks I let them sit outside to sunbake for a couple days then just put a vacumn cleaner inside the tank turned on and just weld away. I did look into using the 302 boss intake but this will not clear the stock 70mustang hood. If Im gonna cut it it will be to put a coyote blower in it but thats just a pipe dream.
 
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Thanks for the kind words. All my mustang stuff is on hold until like March. All my time is going towards hunting at the moment but will pick it back up soon.
 

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