Newish to me 97 Cobra

Robstercraws

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In September of last year some one traded in their 1997 Rio Red Cobra with 140k miles on it. Everything original, no mods, beautiful interior and paint that was in really awesome shape for the mileage. Just a couple minor issues and a CEL. After driving it and checking it out as a used car, I decided I had to have it. Plus for the price it was hard to pass up. First pic, still with the used car writing on the windshield.

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CEL on due to a vacuum leak. IMRC shaft on the passenger side leaking. Was also sitting waaay too high, so I had to change that.

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Crappy cell pics :mad: but you get the idea. So with some HR SS's, MGW Shifter, MMR IMRC Deletes, used UPR OR X-Pipe and a tune it's well on its way. I have a set of used 3.73s out of an 8.8. But I think I'm set on 4.10s. I have some Koni STR.T shocks/struts on back order. When I put those in I'm going to remove the Isolators I left in when I put the springs on. I want to get more low.

I've been hating my clutch pedal height since I bought it. I figured I'd get a kit from American Muscle and fix that. Not so much... lol. Clutch pedal is still 2 inches higher than my brake pedal, which drives me insane. And now my pedal is pretty mushy and harder to press than it used to be. Going to try and sort that out tomorrow. Anyone have any experience with the SR Adjustable cable, Firewall Adjuster and Solid Quadrant?
 

Orange 94

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Welcome! Great looking car.

First off, only use OEM or Maximum Motorsports (OEM) cable. The aftermarket ones will give you trouble, you can still use an adjuster though.

I have no idea about your clutch height problem. I've noticed their at different heights, never bothered me.
 

1997GT4.6

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Nice find, I'm digging it. Looks much better lowered. I don't think I'd buy any SR products honestly, cheap quality comes with a cheap price. I like my steeda units; Ford or MM Cable only. I like the pedal position, but I've had Fords forever so I'm used to it.

Honestly if its not daily driven and will be a drag car, 4.56 is the way to go with these mod motors. 4.10s minimum if its to be daily driven. I have 4.10s and wish I would have gone with 4.30s.
 
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Robstercraws

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Hey thanks everyone. I got my issue sorted out today. Took it into work today after class and put the old factory cable back on, adjusted the firewall adjuster and it feels great. Still not the height I wanted, but I may have found a solution.

Maximum Motorsports sells a "kit" (looks like a piece of metal) that moves the sto stop off the quadrant so the pedal can be two inches lower. Idk if that makes sense, but when it comes in I'll take some pics of it and the install.

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jws4621

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I did the maximum motorsports clutch pedal adjuster on my 84 it was really high compared to the brake pedal. I love it made all the difference in the world not to have to put my knee through the back of the steering wheel to get my foot on it. My 94 cobra doesn't seem to have that issue.

Super nice car by the way.
 
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Robstercraws

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Cut off on me going down the road Friday night. Wouldn't restart, only cranked. Luckily it was on the way back from the liquor store so I had plenty of beer to drink while I waited for the tow truck. Get it towed to my work to check it out in the morning.

Anti theft light flashing, no communication with pcm. After starting an ids session manually with pcm tear tag and vin, it had a pats code which I don't remember. Buy it had a ssm or tsb attached to check c113 near the battery. Checked that, no concerns. Found a fuse blown for the ccrm module. It provides power for the pcm and fuel pump. Took a bunch apart looking for any kind of rub thru on the harness but found nothing really concerning. Put her all back together with a new fuse and she fired right up. But with a battery light on. Alternator not changing. Replaced that and good to go.

Guessing maybe the alternator spiked and some how caused that fuse to blow. Kind of a weird problem so I figured I'd put it up here in hopes to maybe help some one out if they have a similar issue in the future.


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