NHRA Legal Battery Disconnect

garrittpwl

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Okay hear me out... I obviously know that the push/pull and manual "turn style" disconnects are legal. But lets take some things into consideration. I don't want a giant switch on the back of the car, nor do I want a rod protruding into my trunk as I've managed to keep my trunk functional and stock appearing. I also don't want my primary battery wires outside of the chassis (similar to people that put a manual switch on their rear bumper). I drive my car often on the street and don't really want a switch exposed to the elements.

My solution; use a battery isolator relay in conjuction with a small(labeled) water proof switch on the outside rear of the car. Wire up the battery isolator relay so that it meets the legal requirements of disconnecting and killing the car.

Do you think the 3-4 times I may take this to the track a year that the tech officials pass this? I dug into the NHRA rule book and found nothing referencing anything other than labeled, kills car and if using a rod/cable has to be 1/8 dia. Also said switch cannot be plastic, thats easy enough.



Coming here to ask this because noone on facebook seems to grasp my needs lol.
 

cobrajeff96

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If you can find a suitable waterproof metallic switch to your liking, which I'm sure there are out there, I recommend checking out a company called Egis Mobile Tech. They make some amazing electric kill switches that you're looking for.
 

lwarrior1016

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Okay hear me out... I obviously know that the push/pull and manual "turn style" disconnects are legal. But lets take some things into consideration. I don't want a giant switch on the back of the car, nor do I want a rod protruding into my trunk as I've managed to keep my trunk functional and stock appearing. I also don't want my primary battery wires outside of the chassis (similar to people that put a manual switch on their rear bumper). I drive my car often on the street and don't really want a switch exposed to the elements.

My solution; use a battery isolator relay in conjuction with a small(labeled) water proof switch on the outside rear of the car. Wire up the battery isolator relay so that it meets the legal requirements of disconnecting and killing the car.

Do you think the 3-4 times I may take this to the track a year that the tech officials pass this? I dug into the NHRA rule book and found nothing referencing anything other than labeled, kills car and if using a rod/cable has to be 1/8 dia. Also said switch cannot be plastic, thats easy enough.



Coming here to ask this because noone on facebook seems to grasp my needs lol.
Are you racing in a NHRA sanctioned event or just test and tune nights?
 
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garrittpwl

garrittpwl

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Are you racing in a NHRA sanctioned event or just test and tune nights?
Just street car nights but the local track is pretty strict. Lucas Oil Raceway park indianapolis. It's owned by the NHRA. They'll throw me out the moment I make a good pass but I want the chance
 

lwarrior1016

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Just street car nights but the local track is pretty strict. Lucas Oil Raceway park indianapolis. It's owned by the NHRA. They'll throw me out the moment I make a good pass but I want the chance
I gotcha. I was up there at Lucas stadium year before last for PRI. I’m kind of thinking about going again this year.

I didn’t know they had a drag strip up there.
 
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garrittpwl

garrittpwl

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I gotcha. I was up there at Lucas stadium year before last for PRI. I’m kind of thinking about going again this year.

I didn’t know they had a drag strip up there.
Indy is great for the Indy 500 as well. Its worth going to just to see the 250k+ people crowd.
 

Wmac

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My understanding is that the disconnect switch must clearly indicate the "off" position for track safety personnel. And must shutdown ALL electrical supply from the battery immediately.

If your method complies with that, it may pass tech. But realize that your track in particular, will follow the intent of the rule and at their discretion.

Run it by someone at the track first or some local racer who would know the NHRA rules, like a stock eliminator or s/s racer.
 

Randall Garner

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Okay hear me out... I obviously know that the push/pull and manual "turn style" disconnects are legal. But lets take some things into consideration. I don't want a giant switch on the back of the car, nor do I want a rod protruding into my trunk as I've managed to keep my trunk functional and stock appearing. I also don't want my primary battery wires outside of the chassis (similar to people that put a manual switch on their rear bumper). I drive my car often on the street and don't really want a switch exposed to the elements.

My solution; use a battery isolator relay in conjuction with a small(labeled) water proof switch on the outside rear of the car. Wire up the battery isolator relay so that it meets the legal requirements of disconnecting and killing the car.

Do you think the 3-4 times I may take this to the track a year that the tech officials pass this? I dug into the NHRA rule book and found nothing referencing anything other than labeled, kills car and if using a rod/cable has to be 1/8 dia. Also said switch cannot be plastic, thats easy enough.



Coming here to ask this because noone on facebook seems to grasp my needs lol.
Hello. The reason for a manually operated switch. Is incase you wreck the safety team can ensure the battery is dead killing fuel pumps etc. There is a reason to the madness. Is your battery still in oem location. Or in trunk. Battery cables do not need to be ran under the car. They can be ran under the carpets and under the door kick panels etc. . But I would check with your local track tech and see what you have for your limited racing. Will be adequate
 
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ttocs

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it probably would not be that hard to make it so the rod is something that you could remove when your not at the track. If you want to hide the hole get a flip down license plate holder and put the hole behind the plate and you would never know, till you open the lid of course as there will be wiring going to it. Otherwise the tail lights come up with 4 nuts, you could always hide the hole behind it and just remove the light for raceday assuming you don't need both lights on the track.
 
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garrittpwl

garrittpwl

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Hello. The reason for a manually operated switch. Is incase you wreck the safety team can ensure the battery is dead killing fuel pumps etc. There is a reason to the madness. Is your battery still in oem location. Or in trunk. Battery cables do not need to be ran under the car. They can be ran under the carpets and under the door kick panels etc. . But I would check with your local track tech and see what you have for your limited racing. Will be adequate
I understand the reasoning. But nowhere do the rules specify manually operated, thats the kicker. My battery is relocated and cables ran inside the car, not outside.
 
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garrittpwl

garrittpwl

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it probably would not be that hard to make it so the rod is something that you could remove when your not at the track. If you want to hide the hole get a flip down license plate holder and put the hole behind the plate and you would never know, till you open the lid of course as there will be wiring going to it. Otherwise the tail lights come up with 4 nuts, you could always hide the hole behind it and just remove the light for raceday assuming you don't need both lights on the track.
I opted to go the isolator/remote cutoff route. We shall see what the techman says. Hopefully this thing is back on the road by the time street car takeover gets here. Waiting on shelby mike timing billet guides to get back on the road. 1000003723.jpg
 

Wmac

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Very tidy, looks good. Let us all know if it passes tech.

Rule 8.4 also states that keyed or plastic switches are prohibited. So if the guts/body of your switch is plastic.........
 
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garrittpwl

garrittpwl

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Very tidy, looks good. Let us all know if it passes tech.

Rule 8.4 also states that keyed or plastic switches are prohibited. So if the guts/body of your switch is plastic.........
I was reading that as the actual disconnect itself. Technically my actual switch is metal. The way I read the rule it means no switches of this variety
 

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LEGALLYFAST

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How about having the rod come out the bottom of the car? The rule doesn’t state the height of the switch. You could create a removable label for when you go to the track, and the metal handle unscrews from the switch.
 
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garrittpwl

garrittpwl

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How about having the rod come out the bottom of the car? The rule doesn’t state the height of the switch. You could create a removable label for when you go to the track, and the metal handle unscrews from the switch.
Thats a thought! out the bottom of the trunk floor would be easy enough
 

ttocs

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except for the fact the gas tank takes up most of that space. I am sure you can find a spot on the sides but it will be tight I bet.
 

LEGALLYFAST

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Although you are right, it is tight, but you would have to fabricate some kind of bracket so it could be low enough to not have to be drill through the bumper. There’s room and might be even more room depending where his exhaust is. Also, it doesn’t necessarily have to be on the passenger side. It could actually be on the driver side.
 
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garrittpwl

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I think there is a little more room on the pass side by the fill neck and the hat.
There's a spot right below the back part of the spare tire well that is easily accessible... if I ever have to go to a push pull rod, I may do it right there.
 

ttocs

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I would check first if it would pass. The idea is it is supposed to be easy to see/reach/activate and out the bottom would mean if you get a flat tire or end up in the grass or something it might not be available.
 

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