Nick's 98gt Full Budget Built Turbo 2v

97stanger

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Were you previously running abs? If so that’s another benefit to going manual so you don’t have to deal with the module interference issue


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98snakehorse

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Holy crap you pull that thing quick! If you’re going manual everything, you should get a 3 bolt timing cover that way you don’t need an a/c delete pulley

I havnt ran a ac or ac delete pulley that last couple of years, just switch the tensioner pulley out for a ribbed one and changed the routing with a shorter belt.

Were you previously running abs? If so that’s another benefit to going manual so you don’t have to deal with the module interference issue


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ABS has been long gone. I really am looking forward to ditching all the power steering and brakes stuff, but I know I have a ton of research to as I have no idea what I'm doing as usual lol
 

lwarrior1016

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I havnt ran a ac or ac delete pulley that last couple of years, just switch the tensioner pulley out for a ribbed one and changed the routing with a shorter belt.



ABS has been long gone. I really am looking forward to ditching all the power steering and brakes stuff, but I know I have a ton of research to as I have no idea what I'm doing as usual lol

Ok, I didn’t know you could get good tension on the belt like that. I’ll go back in to my corner and watch.


Manual brakes, get the MM conversion kit and find what size master you need. Get a master from an older ranger, works great.

Steering, I suggest a flaming river rack but you will need the adapter joint for the steering shaft and you’ll need a standard thread bump steer kit.
 
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98snakehorse

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Ok, I didn’t know you could get good tension on the belt like that. I’ll go back in to my corner and watch.


Manual brakes, get the MM conversion kit and find what size master you need. Get a master from an older ranger, works great.

Steering, I suggest a flaming river rack but you will need the adapter joint for the steering shaft and you’ll need a standard thread bump steer kit.

Thanks for the info, Im sure I will have more questions for you on the way. My hopes are to keep the stock proportioning valve and just tap both lines into my new Master Cylinder. The MM converision comes with master plate and brake pedal right?
 

lwarrior1016

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Thanks for the info, Im sure I will have more questions for you on the way. My hopes are to keep the stock proportioning valve and just tap both lines into my new Master Cylinder. The MM converision comes with master plate and brake pedal right?
I’m still using the stock proportioning valve and just new lines from the master to the valve. I’m going to replace it though because the rear brakes don’t get much pressure (not a bad thing for a drag car).

The MM kit comes with the plate, and adjustable push rod, pedal arm, pedal, new brake switch and bracket, and very good instructions.
 
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98snakehorse

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I think I've figured out the belt routing thing im going to be doing. How does no tensioner sound? I'll just use the alternator as the tension point and pull it up for tension...

This guys turbo 2v has been my inspiration on alot of stuff. And he is currently doing what Im proposing and says it works great.

 
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98snakehorse

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Time to get these brakes switched to manual

efd67927e293629b5dd812932448faf5.jpg
eed582aaf473981de6bc8725f00b80cf.jpg


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BMAC96GT

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Based on your research, how do you anticipate your pedal feel to be with manual brakes?
 
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98snakehorse

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Based on your research, how do you anticipate your pedal feel to be with manual brakes?

From what I hear pretty awful compared to the power brakes. lol I've never driven a manual brake car so I guess I'll have to see. I did set the MM brake pedal to the furthest possible travel position which should give me the best case scenario.
 
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evilcw311

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My 72 nova had manual brakes. Pedal sucked!!!!! Lol


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BMAC96GT

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From what I hear pretty awful compared to the power brakes. lol I've never driven a manual brake car so I guess I'll have to see. I did set the MM brake pedal to the furthest possible travel position which should give me the best case scenario.

Well dang lol

I feel like most try to act like its not a big difference to try to justify doing it. I see youre a realist lol
 

ttocs

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all the different type of brake systems has confused me to know which is good/bad/ugly. I thought that this was being done as an upgrade which isn't a bad idea with the power planned, why are we going to manual brakes if it isn't to stop faster? Just easier/smaller?
 
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98snakehorse

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My main reason.... Its gonna give me much more room to run my hot side piping / coolant hoses. And this is mostly a drag car which is gonna save much weight too. As long as my brakes still stop me from running off the end of the track we are all good :)
 

lwarrior1016

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I daily drove mine for a while with manual steering and brakes with full size tires on it.

It does take more effort, but it is not unbearable at all. If you size your master cylinder accordingly, it is not bad at all.

Steering is a little tougher than the brakes but is still easier than a manual gearbox car is.

After I finish wiring this coyote, I’ll be daily driving it again.
 
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98snakehorse

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I daily drove mine for a while with manual steering and brakes with full size tires on it.

It does take more effort, but it is not unbearable at all. If you size your master cylinder accordingly, it is not bad at all.

Steering is a little tougher than the brakes but is still easier than a manual gearbox car is.

After I finish wiring this coyote, I’ll be daily driving it again.

William, do you know the weight difference between the coyote and the 2v? In comparison to your aluminum 2v?
 

lwarrior1016

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William, do you know the weight difference between the coyote and the 2v? In comparison to your aluminum 2v?
Not right off hand. It’s not going to be a huge difference though. If I had to guess I would say something like 50-75lbs. I’m going to do some searching now.
 

lwarrior1016

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Looks like the coyote should be 430 lbs, and an iron 4.6 is 486 lbs. an aluminum 4.6 2v should be 410ish lbs.
 

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